HIE Exposure

reub2000 · May 1, 2007

My photo teacher sold me some Kodak HIE infrared film. He told me the exposure was 1/125@f/11 with a #25 filter. I'd like to use the film in a Yashica Electro 35 GSN, a camera which is autoexposure only. Is this a possible combination?

Ryuji · May 1, 2007

Auto only cameras are tricky. I'm not too familiar with Yashica Electro 35 GSN, but I think it has light sensor outside the filter, right?

So the light meter is seeing the visible light, and the film is seeing only IR. The amount of IR light is not proportional to that of visible light... it really depends. When the sun is up with no cloud, you can probably meter for ASA 80-125 range without filter and exposure HIE with your filter. But I recommend to bracket by +2 and -2 stops, at least, though, since this guestimate can be off by a few stops.

Incidentally, I was once thinking to modify one of the cheap Sekonic meter to see only IR light... to make my life easier but the meter I bought for this project gets used for other purposes so I can't modify it any more I have the photographs of the inside of the meter on my web, though.

Thomas Bertilsson · May 1, 2007

Two things:

1. Yes, as long as the camera doesn't identify frames with an IR sensor. Normally EI 100 works pretty well if you can set film speed on your camera. Don't think HIE is DX coded.
2. 1/125s @ f/11 with a #25 red sounds like full broad daylight exposure. Let the camera do the work for you to begin with and see if it works. If not, set your EI to something different and try again.

Infrared photography requires a lot of trial and error.

That's what I know about HIE. I'm sure there are experts here that can tell you more.

- Thomas

reub2000 · May 1, 2007

I also have an ELAN 7, which has manual exposure, however the camera has an IR frame counter. The frame counter comes in handy when doing mid-roll film changes, however it this case it will fog the film.

Auto only cameras are tricky. I'm not too familiar with Yashica Electro 35 GSN, but I think it has light sensor outside the filter, right?

Correct. The light meter is outside of where the filter, on the right side of camera.

1. Yes, as long as the camera doesn't identify frames with an IR sensor. Normally EI 100 works pretty well if you can set film speed on your camera. Don't think HIE is DX coded.

There is no DX sensor or IR frame counter on this camera.

2. 1/125s @ f/11 with a #25 red sounds like full broad daylight exposure. Let the camera do the work for you to begin with and see if it works. If not, set your EI to something different and try again.

Yes, that was the broad daylight exposure. I assume on a cloudy day it would be lower, because skylight contains mostly shorter wavelengths?

Andy K · May 1, 2007

Some of the best IR results I've had came from rating HIE at 400 and bracketing every shot. See attachments.

Most important thing to remember when using IR film is to make sure you load the film into the camera using a changing bag or in total darkness.

Steve Smith · May 1, 2007

Andy K said:
Some of the best IR results I've had came from rating HIE at 400 and bracketing every shot. See attachments.

These are some excellent examples if IR. Something I would like to do but have not tried yet.

As you bracket every shot, can you recall how close to your original exposure estimate the the actual images you used were?

Steve.

Neal · May 1, 2007

Dear reub2000,

Download the data sheet here:

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/techPubs/f13/f13.pdf

The document suggests bracketing around a setting of ASA 50 for cameras without through the lens metering and using a #25 filter. It futher suggests a 5 stop bracket range and as your camera meter can be set down to ASA 4 and up to 400 you should be able to get something.

For future reference, here is a link to the Kodak data sheets in order by publication number:

http://www.kodak.com/global/en/professional/support/databanks/filmDatabankList.jhtml?

Neal Wydra

wirehead · May 1, 2007

You can set the ASA to 400... that works for me.... but you'd better meter THROUGH the filter.

In fact, when I meter at 400 through a red filter with HIE, it always comes out properly exposed.

Andy K · May 2, 2007

Sorry. I forgot I posted a similar thread last year. Much great advice and links to IR websites (there was a url link here which no longer exists).

reub2000 · May 2, 2007

One question. The HIE data sheet, by the HC-110 time it says for scientific use. Why?

Ryuji · May 2, 2007

I don't know exactly why. But my reasonable guess is that, the note is because HC-110 at some dilution was recommended to people who previously used D-19 for scientific research applications. HC-110 is a suggested replacement for D-19 in several applications and users who preferred liquid concentrate over powder migrated to HC-110. Kodak recommended this substitution with Tech Pan, autorediography emulsions, nuclear track emulsions, some other radiographic emulsions, etc. It wouldn't be any surprise that HIE and HC-110 was used to develop for higher contrast for scientific research purposes.

BWKate · May 2, 2007

I shoot my HIE just like AndyK at 400 asa and I develop in D-76 straight for 11 minutes at 68 degrees farenheit.

donbga · May 2, 2007

BWKate said:
I shoot my HIE just like AndyK at 400 asa and I develop in D-76 straight for 11 minutes at 68 degrees farenheit.

Those are really beautiful Kate. Good work.

Rob Archer · May 2, 2007

Very timely thread as I'm off to shoot some HIE for the 1st time tomorrow, using a 35mm panoramic back on a Bronica ETRSi. I intend using a B&W no. 091 filter, which is a very deep red. I'm also going to try an Ilford SFX filter (opaque to visible light) what difference is it likely to make?

Rob

reub2000 · May 3, 2007

Ryuji said:
I don't know exactly why. But my reasonable guess is that, the note is because HC-110 at some dilution was recommended to people who previously used D-19 for scientific research applications. HC-110 is a suggested replacement for D-19 in several applications and users who preferred liquid concentrate over powder migrated to HC-110. Kodak recommended this substitution with Tech Pan, autorediography emulsions, nuclear track emulsions, some other radiographic emulsions, etc. It wouldn't be any surprise that HIE and HC-110 was used to develop for higher contrast for scientific research purposes.

Interesting. Do you know if the time listed in the data sheet is any good for pictorial use?

BWKate · May 3, 2007

Thanks for the kind comments, Don.

Ryuji · May 3, 2007

reub2000 said:
Interesting. Do you know if the time listed in the data sheet is any good for pictorial use?

No, I have a few bottles of HC-110 in my studio but I don't use them... The speed-granularity-accutance tradeoff of HC-110 is not something I like... so... don't have experience with HIE in HC-110. Sorry.

ben-s · May 3, 2007

Another vote for 400 ISO here!
I shoot the stuff in an EOS 1n - which has no IR counter, and I use a Hoya R72 filter. I am told that this is the same as the SFX filter.
I haven't been using HIE long, so I'm still bracketing by 2 or 3 stops each way.

With HIE, I've found that you need to load the camera in TOTAL darkness. If you don't, you'll end up with patchy fog over approximately 12 frames worth of sprocket holes, some of which leaks into the image area, and the first 5 or so frames are moderately fogged all across the image area.

I say this from bitter experience. I disregarded the instructions on the pack, and loaded in subdued light. Needless to say, I won't be doing this again!

wirehead · May 3, 2007

So I use HIE at HC-110 Dil H for 10m and it's good for pictural use..... but I'm hybrid (*gasp* *shock* *shudder*) so I'm not sure how they'd look when optically printed.

Gary Holliday · May 3, 2007

wirehead said:
..... but I'm hybrid

has been tagged for the reprocessing procedure.

bigdog · May 6, 2007

I shot @ 400 with a red #25 filter using TTL metering and got good exposures. I also loaded and unloaded the film in a closet in total darkness. I have heard you can also fog the film if you leave the leader out so I set my camera to fully rewind the film into the canister. I also used electrical tape over a piece of tinfoil on the film door window. I use an Elan 7E with what I believe is a red laser type frame counter and it only fogged the bottom edge of the film and did not intrude much if any on the image.

HIE Exposure

reub2000

Ryuji

Thomas Bertilsson

reub2000

Andy K

Attachments

Steve Smith

Neal

wirehead

Andy K

reub2000

Ryuji

BWKate

Attachments

donbga

Rob Archer

reub2000

BWKate

Ryuji

ben-s

wirehead

Gary Holliday

bigdog

HIE Exposure

Attachments

Attachments

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