Welcome gr8fuldodd,
Other than camera gear, fast film can make this much easier. Unfortunately, some fast colour film choices are not as simple. There are a few choices in transparency films, a few more in colour negative, or the option of push processing. Without knowing your processing or lab access to push processing, it is a little tougher to make recommendations. I find that in several larger cities I go to in the US that getting E-6 films push processed is often easier than finding some places willing to push process C-41 films. However, if you find a place that will push process C-41, I can suggest Kodak Portra 800, which is good out to ISO 3200 in push processing.
My tendency is to use more transparency films for push processing. I use to shoot tons of Ektachrome P1600, until the prices went up and it became tougher to find this film. I have also used Fujichrome MS 100/1000, which has unfortunately been discontinued. I briefly tried Kodak Ektachrome 320T (Tungsten) at two and three stops push (and with some extra exposure as compensation), though found the results similar to P1600 (grain levels). That led me to do lots of experiments push processing Kodak E200 to extreme levels, currently used at 4 2/3 stops (and with exposure compensation, since E200 does not push in a linear manner).
An interesting thing about E200 is that beyond three stops push it experiences a blue shift in colour response. While that might sound bad, what it means is that an 80A filter can be too strong, though an 82B or weaker 82A can be just right. This film also tends to retain a relatively smooth grain at extreme push settings, unless you underexpose.
With camera gear, the choices would usually dictate faster lenses to keep the shutter speeds from getting too slow, at least if you want to do hand held imaging. If you are using an SLR, the faster lenses (f1.4, f2.0 in 35mm, or f2.0 or f2.8 in medium format) can make it easier to focus and view your subjects and scenes. Using a rangefinder is actually easier in many cases, since the better viewfinders tend to be easier to focus and compose through than using an SLR (depends upon camera). Using autofocus can be tougher, since some systems struggle with low light, while others need to throw a pattern of light (often reddish) onto your subjects to focus.
Other than using fast lenses, you can also just try wider lenses. The advantage is scale focusing, since you can guesstimate the distances. It is tougher and often more expensive to find faster wide angle lenses, so the slower lenses might mean slower shutter speeds.
Camera holding techniques can also make things easier. I tend to shoot more vertical images, so I have a hand hold technique that presses part of the camera into my forehead to steady it. It also helps to be very relaxes, breath carefully, and sometimes to avoid any caffeine prior to doing lots of shooting. Slowing things down and timing your shots can make things easier. After lots of practice, I can get good results as slow as 1/4 and 1/8 second with a 50mm f1.4 on a 35mm SLR; though I recommend trying to start with 1/30 second as a slowest hand held shutter speed. Best of luck.
Ciao!
Gordon
