Steve Hamley
Allowing Ads
WD2D or WD2D+? The tech sheet for WD2D+ from Photographer's Formulary says to dilute 1:1:50 with distilled water. I've never had excessive staining from WD2D+.
Peter Gomena
Folks,
I've been trying out WD2D as Bob Herbst lists here under "writings":
http://www.bobherbst.com/
The developer seems to work as advertised except that I'm getting excessive stain that's clearly overdone in the border areas of my negatives where there is no exposure. The borders are extremely green. I've also noticed that it leaves a pronounced "bathtub ring" around the developer tray which I assume is from developer that's more oxidized than it should be.
I developed a duplicate negative (same film stock), same subject, etc, in PMK and got a very clear negative margin with a nice stain, so I'm certain it isn't film. Also, it doesn't look like fog - just stain.
Other details, the darkroom is cool, 65-68 degrees, tray developing, 1:1:10 dilution (as specified), agitation 10 seconds every 30 seconds, and other than the excessive stain, the negatives look fine.
Cheers, and thanks,
Steve
You might want to record the pH of the various mixes you are making up. We do not really know the purity of the Arm and Hammer Washing Soda, nor do we know what the impurities are.
PE
Steve, if your stain is green you're not using the same formula as original Wimberley, my modified Wimberley, or WD2D+. Green stain comes from use of sodium metaborate (Kodalk) as the alkalai in the developer formula. PMK and Rollo use metaborate. Wimberley, ABC, and other formulas which use sodium carbonate as the alkalai in the developer produce a stain which is yellowish-brown. If your stain is green you're not using the same formula.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?