Help with OM10 flash shoe please

Peninsula · Jan 18, 2012

Hello ladies and gents, I hope someone can help with this...

I have two OM10 bodies. One is pristine and another was bundled with it for parts.

Since buying a flash I have discovered that the newer, prettier body will not activate the flash while the other one will.

The problem with the 'for parts' body is the light meter and I *think* it would be easier to repair a flash shoe than a light meter. I would therefore like to get the flash shoe on the better looking body working using parts from the other body.

A bit of research threw up the OM10 service manual online, but this does not seem to contain much on this issue. And Ebay item number 290554491862 shows me that at least some people out there have come across issues with the contacts/connections to the flash.

Can anyone advise what I should check to find the root of the problem, or any other advice? Thanks

Rick A · Jan 18, 2012

Welcome to Apug. My experience with OM's is extensive, starting with the FTL (Pre OM-1), and all models except the OM-3. I purchased a pair of OM-10's when first intro'ed, and they didn't last much more than a year before they met their demise. My recommendation, junk them and buy an OM-2n if you want AE function, or an OM-1n for manual only. The internal parts of the 10's are cheaply made intro models and it's surprising as many lasted as long as they have. OM-4's are inexpensive these days, and the metering system is one of the best ever built into a 35mm SLR, I highly recommend you get one and forget the toy 10.

Matthew Wagg · Jan 18, 2012

I started my photography on an OM20 when they first came out. Lovely camera's. I have a 10 now but after shooting with the OM2 and the 2SP I'd not go back to working with a 10. There's a league of difference in working with the cameras. The 10's are ten a penny on Ebay, its flooded with them. In all honesty, get a good example of one of the single digit OM's and you'll love it. I did.

mr rusty · Jan 18, 2012

Seconded

The single digit OMs are much nicer than the double digit models.

I am guessing, but I suspect it won't be the shoe itself, but whatever makes the connection when the flash fires, prob deep in the innards. Mike spencer at camerarepairs-r-us dot co dot uk will probably be able to help, if necessary. I send my OMs to him for fettling. Personally, I wouldn't bother paying to get an OM10 fixed though. Just buy another they are so cheap.

E. von Hoegh · Jan 18, 2012

Thirded. The OM10 was an abortion.

Peninsula · Jan 20, 2012

Thanks for your input. I'm going to open up the 'for parts' body and work out the path of the flash wire etc so see if its 'user servicable' by me. Will post an update whenever I do that. I don't have precision screwdrivers right now, and can do without the flash until I get some.

The OM10 seems like a decent camera to me at present, seems I would change my mind if I had it side by side with a single digit model. In the future I may consider buying one of the pro line, but as this is my initial foray into SLRs I will wait a while and see whether this would make a sensible investment for me.

wblynch · Jan 20, 2012

OM10 are fine cameras that are easy to use, cheap to buy and give great photos. There are certainly a lot worse cameras in the world.

And, with an OM10 you can start building your collection of OM Zuiko lenses, that work just as well on any OM series camera.

Rick A · Jan 20, 2012

The OM-G came out to correct all the mistakes that were in the OM-10. New OM-10's were $99.95 for the FC model with a 50/1.8 Zuiko on it, and were strictly a hobby model. Olympus dumped a couple million of them on the market to help bolster their share of the market. Their only saving grace was the compatability with the pro accessories, but that was also the undoing of both of mine, they couldn't hold up to the rigors of sustained use and power winders. The plastic gear mechanisms in mine stripped, you don't advance film, you don't take photos.

wblynch · Jan 20, 2012

True, plastic parts are weaker than metal parts, especially under the stress of a motor winder.

Perhaps Olympus' mistake was providing motordrive connections on the OM10+. Perhaps some users' mistake was expecting a $99 camera to hold up to a motordrive?

I have a feeling that 99% of the OM10+ cameras never had a motordrive on them, leaving them in good functioning condition.

MattKing · Jan 20, 2012

Rick A said:
The OM-G came out to correct all the mistakes that were in the OM-10.

The OM-G was known as the OM-20 in much of the world.

I have two OM-Gs - they are very functional, have built in manual exposure, and are wonderfully light.

Peninsula · Jan 26, 2012

Update: good and bad news on this issue with flash not working. Bad news is that I shot a roll of 36 exp Ilford B&W and it came out entirely blank. Only bit that had been exposed was the leader. It turned out the shutter was jammed.

Good news is that once I fixed the jammed shutter, the flash worked. The camera will only trigger the flash when the shutter is open, so once the shutter was ok the signal went to the flash shoe.

To fix the shutter I removed the lens and opened the back and gripped the shutter cloth from front and back with one hand, while pressing the shutter button. Jiggled the cloth a bit and it opened!

Can't believe it ended up being such a simple solution to a problem which looked complicated initially! Thanks for the input all.

John Hermanson · Feb 7, 2012

OM-10 will hold up to Winder 1 or 2. The motor drives do not work if attached (there is a blocking diode). At the same time the 10 came out, Canon introduced their all plastic and heavier AV-1, Nikon dumped the EM on the market. OM-g is better but still suffers from oil on the magnet. OM-10 is okay as a hobby camera but would not rely on it. A good used 2N will serve you better and longer. JMO. John

Help with OM10 flash shoe please

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