Help with Kallitype-digital workflow

[Mark Fisher]

When printing for the alt process exchange, I found that I had a very hard time getting the prints cleared properly and consistantly. I was throwing out at least half my prints....so I am looking for advice.

Here is what I did in my latest sessions:
I am using freshly mixed Ferric Oxalate (from Artcraft). My silver nitrate is from an unknown source, so that might be suspect. The paper is Arches Platine. I also used Cranes stationary, but had more problems with that. I am not pre-treating the paper in any way. I am using sodium citrate developer without any dichromate additive. I did not think I needed it with a tuned, digital negative.....I am suspecting that might be a problem. I originally used the rinse-clear in citric acid-rinse process prior to toning, but now I am using 3 citric acid baths instead because I thought that might be the problem...it did not seem to help. My toners and fix is per Sandy's recommendation. I save and replenish the developer and throw out the clearing baths and fixer after each session (maybe 300 sq in. of prints). All solutions (ex. silver nitrate and ferric oxalate which use distilled) are from tap water which is close to ph neutral (Lake Michigan water) although my ph strips are pretty hard to read.

The only other things I can think of is to add some amount of potassium dichromate to the developer (how much?) and recalibrate my process or possibly acidify my developer with a little citric acid. I really love the process and the results I get so I want to perfect it as best I can. On the other hand, I really don't want to go through the pain of recalibrating my process unless I really need to.

Thanks for your help -- Mark

 

[sanking]

When printing for the alt process exchange, I found that I had a very hard time getting the prints cleared properly and consistantly. I was throwing out at least half my prints....so I am looking for advice.

Here is what I did in my latest sessions:
I am using freshly mixed Ferric Oxalate (from Artcraft). My silver nitrate is from an unknown source, so that might be suspect. The paper is Arches Platine. I also used Cranes stationary, but had more problems with that. I am not pre-treating the paper in any way. I am using sodium citrate developer without any dichromate additive. I did not think I needed it with a tuned, digital negative.....I am suspecting that might be a problem. I originally used the rinse-clear in citric acid-rinse process prior to toning, but now I am using 3 citric acid baths instead because I thought that might be the problem...it did not seem to help. My toners and fix is per Sandy's recommendation. I save and replenish the developer and throw out the clearing baths and fixer after each session (maybe 300 sq in. of prints). All solutions (ex. silver nitrate and ferric oxalate which use distilled) are from tap water which is close to ph neutral (Lake Michigan water) although my ph strips are pretty hard to read.

The only other things I can think of is to add some amount of potassium dichromate to the developer (how much?) and recalibrate my process or possibly acidify my developer with a little citric acid. I really love the process and the results I get so I want to perfect it as best I can. On the other hand, I really don't want to go through the pain of recalibrating my process unless I really need to.

Thanks for your help -- Mark

I would suspect the following, in order of probability.

1. You definitely need to add some dichromate to the developer. How much depends on the DR of you negative, but even with a very high DR negative (1.8 or higer) you should add some dichromate. For that DR negative I use about 2ml of a 5% potassium dichromate solution per liter of sodium citrate developer.

2. Check the pH of the sodium citrate developer. Best if it is below about 6.5. Add citric acid if above 7.

3. If you are doing a water rinse between the developer and first clearing bath, eliminate it. Something in your water could be causing the pro blem, even if it is not base.

In my experience the print should come out of the developer almost completley clear of stain. If there is a lot of stain at the end of development you may also need to look back at the FO and SN solutions. The FO in particular will go bad and cause some fog after just a month or two from mixing.

Hope this info is useful.

Sandy

 

[donbga]

Thanks for your help -- Mark

Mark,

Sandy has addressed many possible causes for the staining you've had.

FWIW, I had problems with staining until I started clearing my prints with 3% citric acid immediately after developing the print - no water wash. I use two liters of citric acid solution for an 8x10 sized image and clear for 5 min. I use 3 seperate citric acid rinses back to back and then rinse with water for two min. after the last clearing bath prior to toning the print.

I also make sure my Sodium Citrate has pH < 7 and > 6.

I don't use any dichromate in the developer but it might be worth trying.

HTH,

Don Bryant

 

[Mark Fisher]

Thanks for the advice. I am getting a ph meter so I can really tell what is going on. I was surprised how inexpensive they are! I am using digital negatives so I can match my negatives to any contrast mix I want. I'll go with the 2ml recommendation (except I'll probably do 10ml of 1% to make replenishment easier). I also recently found out that Platine is only sized on one side so that could also be part of my problem. Back to the darkroom...

Thanks -- Mark

 

[donbga]

Thanks for the advice. I am getting a ph meter so I can really tell what is going on. I was surprised how inexpensive they are! I am using digital negatives so I can match my negatives to any contrast mix I want. I'll go with the 2ml recommendation (except I'll probably do 10ml of 1% to make replenishment easier). I also recently found out that Platine is only sized on one side so that could also be part of my problem. Back to the darkroom...

Thanks -- Mark

Unless you really want a pH meter, pH strips will be accurate enough.

BTW, I do decant my sodium citrate after several prints and replinish my working solution with fresh developer. Until you get your staining problems worked out you may want to use fresh developer for each print until you discover what fixes the staining. It took me a long time to make everything work. Just hang in there.

Don BRyant