Help with folder alignment

I have a couple folders I'm getting ready to work on. One is a Voigtlander Bessa 66, the other a Agfa Viking 6.3. In both cases the camera doesn't open up and lock the lens in the proper, more or less parallel to the film plane position. If I pull the platform down a bit, the lens will come all the way out but as soon as I release the platform, it shifts back in just a bit. On both cameras the side rails are clicking into position, nothing looks bent, and I cant see any adjustments or issues. How does one fix a folder with this problem?

Can you post photos of the arms? There are so many different arrangements it's hard to offer advice without seeing the specific cameras in question.

I'm working on the Agfa first, here's a couple of pictures.

Looking at it some more I'm wondering if I need to tweak the tabs that index into a fitting on the front of the platform? The arrow in the detail shot is pointing to one of the tabs in question.

Thanks for the help!

Sorry to answer your query with another query, but how do you intend to measure the alignment of the lens standard? Trying to straighten it is all very well but if you can't measure it precisely you'll have limited accuracy (and, hence, limited success). In the first instance I would use a surface plate, some blocks under the film rails, and a depth gauge (or dial gauge and holder) to measure the parallelism.
Cheers,
Brett

Put some frosted tape or waxed paper across the film rails to verify if the camera is in or out of focus "as-is" before doing anything to it.

Before tweaking anything, make sure all the pivots and lock points are perfectly clean. If they are, then yes, I'd first be looking at the tabs you indicate. It's a pretty simple mechanism, which makes it easier to see what effect any changes you make are having overall.

The measurement point is a good one. The way I've done it is to remove the lens and shutter assembly, then use a plunge micrometer from the shutter flange to the pressure plate (back closed, obviously - you may want a single layer of tape on the pressure plate to prevent scratches). Measure at four cardinal points around the flange so you have a clear indication of what's going on. It's not as precise as a bench setup, but you should be able to get within 0.10mm pretty easily.

Thanks all!

Bret, the level of accuracy your talking about would be nice but for this probably not required. As the lens has to come off anyhow (shutter isn't working), I'll probably use the method described in O2's post. If the lens wasn't coming off I figure a level and some comparisons between the film plane and lens would get it close.

Rick, verification isn't needed. I can visually see the angle of the lens and that its not close to matching the film plane. Not even close. The Bessa I mentioned is even worse.

O2Pilot, thanks much for the information! I don't have a large enough plunge mic but I do have a caliper that will reach in there. I'll need to be careful not to move the pressure plate but with care should be able to get some measurements.

I spent some time last night looking at the Bessa. Its mechanism isn't as simple as the Agfa's and so far I don't see any adjustment points. Overall the Bessa isn't in as nice a condition as the Agfa, in fact its rather rough, but I really like Voigtlander's and would like to get it usable. One at a time though, so once the Agfa is done I'll post up some pictures of the Bessa and see is anyone has any ideas.

Frustrating.

I fixed the shutter, got the alignment done, collimated the lens, and only after spending all that time did I see that the film wind knob isn't working. It turns fine, but I hadn't noticed that the spindle inside the camera doesn't move. It seems its not a simple winder on a shaft, unless of course the shaft is broken but the problem is that try as I might I cant see any way to remove the knob. No grub screws, and the center doesn't look like it comes out. Anybody have any clues?

Some film winders come apart if you hold the keyed end and wind them the opposite direction, but you probably knew that already. Plus it sounds as though the thing is broken already. I know that some Braun Paxette models had bodies that were actually cemented together, maybe your film wind knob was as well.

FWIW. It's never called "bending" or "tweaking". Always! Without exception it's
referred to as "reforming" or the nebulous "adjusting".

It's more expensive.

so its aligned but have you considered the door itself may have been bent causing the out of alignment?

the winging problem has to be a hands on trouble shoot as you closely inspect everthing.