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Help! Which battery do I need?

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Stargazer

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Hi guys,

Recently I found my much-loved Nikkormat Ftn in its bag complete with three additional Nikkor lenses; I haven't used this camera for at least thirty years and found myself wondering why. I have some newer Nikons which are all great cameras but none of them seemed to suit me as much this one. I think it's the way the shutter speed selector is fitted round the lens mount which made it so easy to use.

MY problem is that there are no batteries for the meter (thank the lord - they would have corroded everything within a five-mile radius by now). I can't for the life of me remember the battery specification and I really don't want to experiment in case I damage the circuitry. Is anybody still using one of these, and if so could you let me know the make and number of the battery you're using?
 
It uses a PX625 battery stock. This is a mercury battery, and is pretty much gone from this earth. Your best bet is probably a 'Wein Cell,' which is an alkaline battery modified to run at ~1.35V; they don't last all that long, but you don't have to modify the camera, and they should be available from most reputable camera dealers.

edit: wrong battery.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
Your camera takes a PX625 mercury battery, which is not made anymore. The camera will not meter properly with the alkaline equivalent. However, you can use a 675 zinc air battery (made for hearing aids) and put an o-ring or similar around it to make it fit the battery chamber properly. Alternatively, you can purchase a Criscam MR-9 and use a modern alkaline battery. The adapter attenuates the voltage to the correct amount.
 
Hi guys,

Recently I found my much-loved Nikkormat Ftn in its bag complete with three additional Nikkor lenses; I haven't used this camera for at least thirty years and found myself wondering why. I have some newer Nikons which are all great cameras but none of them seemed to suit me as much this one. I think it's the way the shutter speed selector is fitted round the lens mount which made it so easy to use.

MY problem is that there are no batteries for the meter (thank the lord - they would have corroded everything within a five-mile radius by now). I can't for the life of me remember the battery specification and I really don't want to experiment in case I damage the circuitry. Is anybody still using one of these, and if so could you let me know the make and number of the battery you're using?

#675 air cell for hearing aids, use an O-ring as a bushing to keep it central in the cell compartment. If you block 3 of the 4 air holes the life will increase from a month or two to a year or so; pay attention to polarity. If the meter doesn't work, try cleaning the contacts of the switch under the advance lever by pulling paper between the contacts.
 
A #9 O ring around the 675 zinc air battery will approximate the same overall diameter of the PX625.
 
Your camera takes a PX625 mercury battery, which is not made anymore. The camera will not meter properly with the alkaline equivalent. However, you can use a 675 zinc air battery (made for hearing aids) and put an o-ring or similar around it to make it fit the battery chamber properly. Alternatively, you can purchase a Criscam MR-9 and use a modern alkaline battery. The adapter attenuates the voltage to the correct amount.

I'm pretty sure the Criscam adapter uses a silver oxide cell. Dead Link Removed
 
My 'simple' answer is to get a standard button battery, almost as large as the opening for the PX625. Then, simply point your camera at a scene with a known exposure value (at the proper set film speed) and make the tiny mental adjustment that will carry over to each subsequent meter reading. Dollar stores carry such button batteries. Get the largest that will fit into the hole. The PX625 is, I think, 1.35 volts and the button batteries are, supposedly, 1.5 volts. The difference in corrective exposure value will be small and easily remembered.

You will probably have to be a mite creative with padding it with either aluminum foil of metal discs (or a flat spring) in order to ensure proper electric contact, but this is reletively easy to do. - David Lyga
 
Another method is to use whatever size of silver oxide cell (or alkaline if you must) which you can make fit and connect a Schottky diode in series internally to drop a little bit of voltage.

http://www.butkus.org/chinon/batt-adapt-us.pdf


Steve.
 
Thank you all for such prompt, varied and informative responses. I'm reassured that this camera which, were I to be shipwrecked on a desert island with only one camera would undoubtedly be the one that I'd pick, will not live the rest of it's life as a paperweight! Having read and re-read your answers I have decided that the MR-9 adapter is the best option. I shall find a suppler here in London if there is one; otherwise I shall order them from the USA. Once again, my thanks to you all.
 
Since you're on that side of the ocean, I suggest one of the adapters offered by Frans de Gruijter (see page 11 in the article Steve Smith referenced). I have one and it works fine in my Rollei 35.
 
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