I figured it. Focal length has nothing to do with getting the correct exposure. I just applied my understanding of exposure in combination with the light meter. To confirm my understanding was correct I used my dslr. First I just took the first photo using the cameras metering. The next photo I took a meter reading. Made the adjustment according to the actual details of the light and subject. Worked like a charm both ways reflective or incident. Tried it on the barn outside and my wife inside the house.
To be honest I love the light meter photos a lot more than the ones from the camera meter.
I may not be expressing this properly but in any event it was pretty easy to figure it out after I spent some time thinking about it.
Demonic L308x-u
This only matters when working really close - less than 10 x the focal length is a good rule of thumb.The focal length to the film plane changes with the bellows focusing of an RB. There should be a scale next to the focusing knob of your right hand that tells you how much to compensate, if I am remembering correctly. Maybe it is at the bottom of the bellows.
I figured it. Focal length has nothing to do with getting the correct exposure.
It has to do.
In light metering the angle of view of the meter can get crucial.
At hand-held meters it may range from over180° down to 1°. (Depending on the characteristics of the meter and how you use it.)
Similar at through-the-lens metering at various focal lengths.
As long as the object has a gradual change of luminosity over its spread, different viewing angle of the meter will yield different result.
That's certainly true for reflective meters, but with incident meters as long as the meter is reading the same light that's illuminating the subject it doesn't matter.
Chtis, your notes and instructions are excellent. Thanks for going to so much effort.
I never used a hand meter, never had to for what I liked to do. However I quickly found out it isn't much different from using my meter in my camera.
Incident meters too have different viewing angles from obout 90° up to over 180°. And even the 180° ones have to be directed to the camera as they too have a declining sensitivity over their half-angle.
This declining sensitivity is necessary to mimic the varying reflection of the object depending of the angle under which its surface is lighted.
Hi Skeeter
Unless you are using your camera to do macro work with bellows extension, you do not have to worry about any light meter adjustments.
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