Yes, this is quite possible. It could be this one: FP1L3N this is a PNP switching transistor for low-current applications. You'll find a datasheet e.g. here:
https://www.renesas.com/us/en/produ...ors/fp1l3n-built-resistor-bipolar-transistors
There's also a STO23-package (that's how it's officially called) with 'S34' marking that contains a double diode, but it's kind of a niche product and wouldn't make all that much sense in a camera. A PNP transistor on the other hand is a perfectly likely candidate.
However,
@Andreas Thaler is correct in that you need to track down the source of the problem. This transistor wouldn't have burnt out spontaneously, and too low battery voltage for too long a time doesn't sound like a sensible cause either. A schematic would indeed be very helpful, but I'd start by poking around with a continuity tester and just visual inspection to figure out what it is that this transistor is supposed to switch, and then see if you can use that knowledge to track down the defect. On that note - where does the green wire lead to? Is that connected to the base (top right pin) of the transistor? And does the bottom pin (the one that's alone on its side) go to the ULN217 motor driver/bridge by any chance? I suspect the mystery part may be part of the power-on circuit that cuts power from the battery to most of the circuitry when the camera is turned off.
Without further information, my wild guesses would go in the direction of:
1: A stuck DC motor that draws excessive current as a result of being stuck. However, I'd expect either of the UN217 H-bridges to have died as well. Nonetheless, it's conceivable that the burnt part switched power to the UN217 it's close to and that the transistor simply burnt out before the UN217 suffered any damage. Their maximum ratings are quite close, with a slight advantage to the UN217.
2: A (very) leaky capacitor somewhere, possibly a tantalum type, that effectively acts as a dead short. This is fairly likely given the age of the camera and the need for miniaturization (tantalum caps are space efficient). Look for any capacitor that is polar; especially small square ones with a clear band or plus sign on either end are suspect.
PS: note that you can't just replace the FP1L3N with any other PNP transistor with the same pinout and similar or better ratings, since the FP1L3N has the somewhat unusual property of having the base current limiting resistor and a pullup resistor integrated into it. Most PNP transistors don't have this; if you dropped in a pin-compatible part, you'd virtually certainly burn out something; possibly this one, possibly an even more difficult to tackle component.
