And most of the MSD (as they are now known)
PSI is probably Photo Systems,
Very few products of this nature are made by the people whose name is on the package.
AFAICR The Eco Pro chemistry started out as developers only, which were originally Ryuji Suzuki's Silvergrain developers.
The Eco Pro name first showed up on Digitaltruth from what I recall.
But it was readily available from Freestyle not long after. My guess is that they have now fully licensed that branding and are using it for other products as well. None of those companies produce chemistry. So Matt's suggestion makes sense that Photo Systems is making them.
dcy..... i don't think the provenance of the developer will make any difference to your prints.....
Buy one or a few developers and let us know how your prints look....
I don't understand that point of view. Don't you like to know who is behind the products you buy? If I buy a Walmart house brand product, I don't know where the factory is, but I know Walmart.
D, it's a common developer sold by a big wholesaler..
If it suits my printing style and budget that's all i need to know.
I've used Eco pro developer, fixer, wash-aid..... all worked like a charm....
I am personally headed in a different direction. I just bought a 2l Ansco 130 kit from PF. If it works as well as claimed, I'll just start mixing up my own paper developer.
I already do this for film. That means I only depend on big manufacturers for fixer, hypo clear, and wetting agent, all of which can reasonably made at home, though rapid fix might be a challenge. The big hole left is selenium toner. Selenium is nasty stuff, especially the fumes and there is no reasonable way to make it at home.
Then again, all this assumes that PF an Artcraft are around for the long haul ...
CR, we hope so. Sometimes i use easily accessible products for test print runs.
Bud & the PF team have been a godsend for darkroom workers.
I have a lifetime subscription for Pyrocat HD, & PF (Ansco)130....
although i have some cans of LPD left....for a rainy day.....
The problem is that they are the only ones still making glycin and you cannot reasonably stock that stuff up and store it indefinitely.
Let's hope they keep at it. I always store my glycin in the fridge.
I have never seen the term "MSD". An MSDS is the Material Safety Data Sheet, so it wouldn't make sense to drop the "S" from the acronym. So the old name is SDS and they just added "M" in front for some reason.
How long have you found it will keep that way?
i've had PF kits (bought multiples)......separated the gylcin..... 6+months later the glycin had not changed colour...& when mixed the 130 was perfect.
The problem is that they are the only ones still making glycin and you cannot reasonably stock that stuff up and store it indefinitely.
My first purchase of a PF 130 kit had glycin that was sort of cocoa colored. When I mixed it, it was dark coffee colored. Bud at PF told me it probably was ok but I would need to try it.
That's also my problem with Ansco 130.
(Side note, @chuckroast, if I'm not mistaken, you like Fomabrom Variant 111. I found Ansco 130 to work wonderfully well with the 112, matte version. Curious to know your impressions once you do a few prints)
D, it's a common developer sold by a big wholesaler..
If it suits my printing style and budget that's all i need to know.
I suggest other than spending time trying to hunt down the "provenance" of your chemicals, you go out and take photos. Much more rewarding.
That's also my problem with Ansco 130.
(Side note, @chuckroast, if I'm not mistaken, you like Fomabrom Variant 111. I found Ansco 130 to work wonderfully well with the 112, matte version. Curious to know your impressions once you do a few prints)
my glycin has always been a light sand colour, & I always buy it directly rather through re-sellers.
To each their own. Everyone's different. Sometimes I like to think about who is behind products I buy. I find it interesting.
When initially mixed, what should the color of the stock solution look like?
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