Help me cheat...to the XTOL'ers out there...

hankchinaski

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Hello dear colleagues,

would you help me cheat?

I want to do this look:


Let's go through the checklist:

- nordic-looking model: have
- dull weather: have, here it's like every day...
- medium format camera: have
- sharp, coated tele lens: have, 150mm schneider for Rolleiflex 6008
- film: have, fp4
- pushed film: have, will set camera to 400 iso

but...

- xtol stock: don't have, don't know how to use it.

What developer/dilution is most similar to xtol stock? What dilution? What time?
 

ic-racer

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I don't see anything like that in the LLBean catalog; maybe do a search for 'baggy arm sweater.'
 

Lachlan Young

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hankchinaski said:
- xtol stock: don't have, don't know how to use it.

What developer/dilution is most similar to xtol stock? What dilution? What time?
Click to expand...

Anything fine grain will do the job. Don't sweat this. Much of Xtol's characteristics are for trying to improve marginally on all three of speed/ grain/ sharpness in an industrial replenishment environment. 1+1/1+2 will effectively end up closer to replenished Xtol.

If you are looking to expand contrast in the standard-issue Glasgow softbox (the light isn't that soft all the time), start with Ilford's suggested timings for rating FP4+ at EI 200 - and initially, you would be well advised to bracket a bit - which the 6008 can do automatically. You might find however, that you are better off rating correctly and processing normally (or even bumping the aim contrast down), depending on metering habits and other outcomes desired.
 
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hankchinaski

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Thanks...so let's say d-76...xtol stock would be like d-76 stock?
 
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hankchinaski

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ic-racer said:
I don't see anything like that in the LLBean catalog; maybe do a search for 'baggy arm sweater.'
Click to expand...

My friend is 20 years old, so basically whatever I tell her to wear, she will ignore or do the opposite, on a random basis
 
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AZD

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The examples vary, but to my eye it’s best to avoid hollow low values and hard, direct light. More than anything, make sure you have full exposure in the shadows, then don’t overdevelop the highlights.

If the negs end up with less contrast than desired you can take care of that later.

An example, I’ll use 8x10 Foma 400 @250 and meter for the shadows. Tray development in Xtol replenished for the highlights (D76 stock or 1:1 would be fine, the latter with longer times which may aid precision). The negatives are really, really good and print easily.
 

albireo

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hankchinaski said:
but...

- xtol stock: don't have, don't know how to use it.

What developer/dilution is most similar to xtol stock? What dilution? What time?
Click to expand...

Did you go through some of his descriptions in the photostream? e.g.




​

 

Lachlan Young

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The reality is that a lot more is about how you bounce & flag the light than what you dev the film in...
 

GregY

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hankchinaski said:
Something strange is that the faces are darker than the rest of the image, it's like he recovered the shadows
Click to expand...

IMO not really....it's back lighting....a fairly common portrait effect.
 
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loccdor

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Yes, when doing outdoor portraits I usually try to find some shade for the subject to stand in on a sunny day. Will make the face much less harsh. Extra bonus if you can get some sunlight to touch the back of the hair while doing that. If you can't find shade, you can at least keep the sun above and behind them and use a lens hood.

The first image looks like a mostly cloudy sunset.
 

MattKing

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Probably replenished HC-110, T-Max 400 (?), high overcast, directional lighting:

This one is colour E6, but the light is far more important. Diffused by high overcast and light fog:



The developer choice - for that matter the film choice - matters only a little bit.
Character and placement and enhancement/control of the light and careful metering matters a lot.
Having something like one of these, plus someone to assist with it, really helps:

 

GregY

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Since i don't typically have access to assistants, I'm always looking for shaded north light locations.
FP4+ (not pushed) is hands down my favourite film for portraiture (Rolleiflex/Tessar)
 

MattKing

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Yes - do not push, unless you want to risk losing the benefits of that big light dome in the Glasgow sky.
 

Paul Howell

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I think with some experimentation to find the best E.I for your Rolli and meter either D76, Xtol, or HC 110 will work. Rather than push I would just use any of three at a higher dilution ration, D 76 1:1 or HC 110 Dilution E, that will increase film grain and increase apparent sharpness while maintaining shadow details. If on the other hand if you want a softer image then D76 stock or HC 110 D B. If I was going to all the trouble I would shoot a few rolls and develop each differently to determine which works best for my taste. I don't use Xtol, but one the main advantage is that it does not need a separate replenished formula. I don't know if ILford makes a replenishe for ID 11.
 

GregY

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Another FP4+ example (20x20" print) shaded north light high noon in June. FP4+ is a film capable of a very nice long tonal scale.
Rolleiflex/ FP4+/Print on Oriental Seagull VC FB

 
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