Help Identifying Nikon FE2 Problem

[Timothy Petersen]

I bought a new Nikon FE2 recently in hopes to avoid getting a lemon. My first roll came back perfect, but every frame of the second roll is awful and I'm truly baffled by it. I would really appreciate some help identifying what's wrong, as I'm completely shocked this roll came back so bad. Attaching some of the scans so you can see what I'm dealing with. Thank you!

 

[Horatio]

I’m not seeing your images.

 

[Timothy Petersen]

I’m not seeing your images.

Hello, and thank you for taking the time to help me. It's very strange because I can see them. Can you see these?

 

[Nicholas Lindan]

I'd guess it's bad processing.

Try a third roll...

 

[Paul Howell]

Post in the color thread, the folks there may be of more help, but looks like a processing problem, not a shutter or metering issue. BTW this thread is for rangefinders, all types, your camera is a SLR.

 

[Horatio]

Yes. Seeing them all now. I’d suspect the film, or processing.

I was curious to see what issues you’re having because I just got an FE2 as well, and some of my exposures on a test roll of B&W film were bad.

 

[Timothy Petersen]

Oof, my bad!

Post in the color thread, the folks there may be of more help, but looks like a processing problem, not a shutter or metering issue. BTW this thread is for rangefinders, all types, your camera is a SLR.

Appreciate the help! Is there any way to move a thread or should I just delete this?

 

[MattKing]

Oof, my bad!

Appreciate the help! Is there any way to move a thread or should I just delete this?

Report your own post by clicking the link at the bottom left, and then asking the moderators to move the thread in the window that opens up.
By the way, the scans aren't nearly as useful as backlit photos of the negatives themselves - please include the edge printing as well.

 

[Timothy Petersen]

Report your own post by clicking the link at the bottom left, and then asking the moderators to move the thread in the window that opens up.
By the way, the scans aren't nearly as useful as backlit photos of the negatives themselves - please include the edge printing as well.

Good to know. I'll make sure to include that when I pick up the film itself.

 

[Light Capture]

Could look like that if exposure was significantly off.
FE has electronic shutter. If there's difference between 1 second and 1/4 second it should be good.

Meter can be tested quickly. In the evening, moderate light indoors should read approximately 1/30s at 800 ISO at f2.

There are some signs of processing issues but hard to say anything until seeing what negatives look like.
Can't really see how FE would make those vertical streaks on image with oranges. FE has vertically traveling shutter and would cause horizontal streaks of some kind.

 

[Huss]

I had an FE2, and no matter how hard I tried I could not get it to make those cool wave like marks that are on a bunch of your images.
It really looks like whoever developed your film messed things up royally.

Did you check some really basic stuff on your camera? Like what the film speed was set at? Where the exposure compensation dial was set? If it was in auto or manual metering modes?

 

[George Mann]

It really looks like whoever developed your film messed things up royally.

That could be, but it could also be heavily fogged.

 

[Huss]

Your first roll was perfect. I'd shoot another roll, maybe use a different lab.
If you shoot a roll of TriX, HP5, Kentmere 400 etc (regular B&W stock) you could send it to me and I'll develop it for you gratis.

 

[Timothy Petersen]

I had an FE2, and no matter how hard I tried I could not get it to make those cool wave like marks that are on a bunch of your images.
It really looks like whoever developed your film messed things up royally.

Did you check some really basic stuff on your camera? Like what the film speed was set at? Where the exposure compensation dial was set? If it was in auto or manual metering modes?

Yeah, it a relief that everyone is saying it's a processing issue, and yes, the camera is set to A and has the correct film speed!

 

[Arcadia4]

What film did you use? Is it fresh rather than expired stock? Given current events presumably its not been through an airport scanner.
That said as posted above looks more processing related.

 

[RalphLambrecht]

Hello, and thank you for taking the time to help me. It's very strange because I can see them. Can you see these?

I agree that these look like rocessing issues; the Nikon FE is typically a very fine camera as long as it has a fresh battery.

 

[Timothy Petersen]

I've heard back from the lab and they're telling me the fogging etc is only happening in the frame and not on the sprockets. This might be a dumb question, but is it possible I loaded the film wrong?

 

[Timothy Petersen]

What film did you use? Is it fresh rather than expired stock? Given current events presumably its not been through an airport scanner.
That said as posted above looks more processing related.

It's a roll of Portra 400, and to my memory it hasn't gone through an x-ray, it's possible that it's an old roll that may have gone through the airport a while ago, but I've never had any problems sending rolls through carry-on security.

 

[Timothy Petersen]

It's a roll of Portra 400, and to my memory it hasn't gone through an x-ray, it's possible that it's an old roll that may have gone through the airport a while ago, but I've never had any problems sending rolls through carry-on security.

The light meter needle is also responsive and when pointed outside on a mostly sunny day set at 400 iso and F16 it's hovering around 1/400.

 

[Huss]

I've heard back from the lab and they're telling me the fogging etc is only happening in the frame and not on the sprockets. This might be a dumb question, but is it possible I loaded the film wrong?

No you didn't load the film wrong. Are you going to get your negatives back? If you then post what they look like it would be helpful.

But for now, shoot another roll of film (cheapest fresh film you can find - Samys or Fireplace camera will have Fuji C200 or Kodak Gold/Ultramax - and get it developed someplace else.
Then you'll know if it was the film.

 

[Timothy Petersen]

Okay I got my film back, and have dropped off a new test roll. I'm attaching what the negatives look like here. Apologies for the quality, but I don't have a light box. From what I can tell the sprockets are not fogged, but there is fogging in between the frames, and there are some overlapping frames. Also including a link to a slow motion video I took of the winding and shutter. https://vimple.co/fdb26485841540538f13e5bfbbfb8a34

 

[Huss]

Did you accidentally open the film back?
Did you accidentally push in the film rewind button (on the base plate) or the multiple exposure switch?

 

[Timothy Petersen]

Did you accidentally open the film back?
Did you accidentally push in the film rewind button (on the base plate) or the multiple exposure switch?

Pretty sure the back was not opened as I have protective leather case on it so it would be difficult. Forgive me for not knowing much, but wouldn't the sprockets be fogged as well if that were the case? And do you mean the film rewind button on the bottom of the camera? I don't think that was pressed either bc of the case. Also, I suppose it's possible I pressed the multiple exposure lever considering I had to google where it was, but it looks kind of difficult to do that many times in a row so I'm guessing that's not the issue. Thank you.

 

[shutterfinger]

Well, being you are a neighbor you cam bring the camera to me and I'll inspect it for you. I'm in San Jose close to 280 and 101.
Download and study this instruction manual and conform you are using the camera correctly. https://www.cameramanuals.org/nikon_pdf/nikon_fe.pdf
With the back closed inspect the gap between the back and body at all edges, it should be even along the edge. The top and bottom gaps should be the same, the hinge and latch should be the same width top to bottom. The back should be even from the body on all edges.
Tape a piece of white paper to the pressure plate and close the back. Remove the lens. Set the shutter speed to 1 second. Cock the shutter then while watching a clock or watch second hand and the shutter opening verify you see the white paper for .8 to 1.2 seconds. Set the shutter speed to 1/2 second and repeat. The shutter should stay open for .4 to .6 seconds.

 

[Timothy Petersen]

Well, being you are a neighbor you cam bring the camera to me and I'll inspect it for you. I'm in San Jose close to 280 and 101.
Download and study this instruction manual and conform you are using the camera correctly. https://www.cameramanuals.org/nikon_pdf/nikon_fe.pdf
With the back closed inspect the gap between the back and body at all edges, it should be even along the edge. The top and bottom gaps should be the same, the hinge and latch should be the same width top to bottom. The back should be even from the body on all edges.
Tape a piece of white paper to the pressure plate and close the back. Remove the lens. Set the shutter speed to 1 second. Cock the shutter then while watching a clock or watch second hand and the shutter opening verify you see the white paper for .8 to 1.2 seconds. Set the shutter speed to 1/2 second and repeat. The shutter should stay open for .4 to .6 seconds.

Thank you, shutterfinger, that's a very generous offer that I wish I could take you up on, but unfortunately I don't own a car! I'm pretty sure I've been using the camera correctly as my other roll came out beautifully, but I will take you advice, and see what I can learn from the manual, as well as follow your other instructions. Thank you!