Help! Exposed ISO 80 film as ISO 400

[Ashfaque]

Hello everyone,

I've made another stupid mistake (- guess I'm continuing with my initiation)! I was shooting a 35mm roll of Rollei Retro 80S (aka, Agfa AVIPHOT PAN 80). I forgot to change the ISO setting from 400 (Tri-X). I haven't used any filter with the lens and most shots were between f4-f8. My intention was to shoot the film at ISO 50. The exposure and shutter speed were set automatically by the camera. Fortunately it had only 18-19 frames.

Just to give you an idea: the area was slightly dark, mainly from the tree shadows. But it was largely sunny. In a digital camera, with an auto ISO setting, I was getting around ISO 50-80. I can upload/share a file from the digital if you want (& ofc, assuming it's ok with the moderators).

I have the following developers: Kodak HC110, SPUR HRX, SPUR Acurol-N, and Rodinal.

Please help me by suggesting a developing method for this roll to extract as much details as possible. The more detailed instructions, the better.

Bests,

Ashfaque

 

[MrBrowning]

Don't know if this helps you but on Filmdev.org there are some results shooting Retro 80S with an EI of 400 and developing in R09/Rodinal. See here. Also Could try semi-stand dev, though I don't know if that would work for you.

Also if you have access to Xtol the MDC has a listing for 80s @ 400 in 1+1.

Hope that helps.

 

[summicron1]

double the developing time and pray, I guess.

thus do we all learn. Welcome to the club. I always tell folks their first roll of film with a new roll will be screwed up.

 

[Ashfaque]

Thanks MrBrowning for the stand dev. and semi-stand dev. ideas. I don't have X-tol.

Any other ideas, please? I like to hear a few more development options, if available and possible. I wonder how many of these initiations I'll have to go through!

Bests,

Ashfaque

 

[darkosaric]

Rodinal 1+100 semi stand for one hour - agitate on beginning, and then every 10-15 min. Tap hard the bottom of the tank to get rid of air bubbles. This is what I do when underexpose in cameras without control like Diana or Holga.

 

[Ashfaque]

Thanks for the tip, Darko.

Bests,
Ashfaque

 

[Ashfaque]

Just another bump before I begin developing this roll. Should I double the developing time and which developer should I use (have SPUR HRX, Acurol-N, HC-110, or Rodinal)? Alternatively, should I go for one hour semi-stand development with Rodinal + agitate at the start and then agitate every 10-15 min? If semi-stand, how long should I agitate at the beginning and during each cycle of 10-15 minutes?

Assuming it is possible and safer to develop (with longer developing time and/or, higher temperature), can I develop the roll SPUR Acurol-N, or SPUR HRX? SPUR suggests that both HRX and Acurol-N should be used with Retro 80S with an ISO 20. I was getting between 50-80 ISO with a digital one. So I am guessing it's safe at 20 ISO (apologies if I'm saying something utterly wrong). If I were to choose either HRX or Acurol-N, how long should I develop - based on the ISO 20 recommendation by SPUR? Can you please educate me about this multiplier effect in layman's terms?

Another option is HC-110. I see various options here. Which one should I double or multiply by another factor?

Also, do I have to fix for longer than than usual (5-7 minutes) due to this mistake?

Essentially I want safer and pleasing results from this screwup.

Bests,

Ashfaque

 

[andrew.roos]

Don't increase your fixer time.

Unfortunately I cannot offer advice on development time as I don't use any of these developers. However if you really want the best results, I would suggest you use a speed-increasing developer such as Ilford Microphen. This should help control the excessive contrast that you will get with a 2.3 stop push. Stand or semi-stand as previously suggested is another approach to controlling excessive contrast.

 

[jeffreyg]

It sounds like you under exposed approximately three stops. I would think that the film would have a latitude of 1-2 stops so I wouldn't go overboard overdeveloping. Why not cut off a couple of frames although you might cut the film in the middle of a frame and try the dev./time you think might work before doing an entire roll. If the pictures on the original roll are important or can't be retaken you could waste another roll - make the same mistake - cut strips of it and develop for different times. After seeing what works do the original roll.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

 

[Richard S. (rich815)]

Delete. Misread the OP post. Carry on.

 

[Ashfaque]

Andrew & Jeffrey: Thanks gents.

Andrew: I only have Acurol-N, HRX, HC-110, and Rodinal. Unfortunately, Microphen or any other B&W chemical is not available in Dhaka. But I've been thinking of getting it with my next supply from EU/US (possibly in February).

Jeffrey: This roll (with ~20 exposures) probably is not that important - i.e., I realised my mistake later and burn another roll to be on the safe side. IIRC, the 2nd one is Rollei RPX 25. Anyway, I'm looking for a relatively easier solution. Your one is a bit complicated for a novice like me.

Bests,

Ashfaque

 

[Xmas]

You need to eventually start to be more careful.

i) Check there is a film in the camera as talking photos with empty camera bad
ii) Check the camera is empty before unlatching the back, not good for photos you took.earlier
iii) Check the rewind knob counter rotates, as you wind to next frame

etc.

The Ilford bulk packs have' only open in dark room' in eight languages but it has been known...

When you load film into a camera always alter the ISO meter speed (or reminder dial) and tear off the box top and sick it in reminder slot or use an Avery label.

When you use an auto camera you need to check that the mechanism is giving a 'reasonable' exposure and aperture value as you don't have a chimp option. So you need to google 'sunny side f 16'

Telling us an auto ISO setting is not helpful unless you tell the shutter speed, lens aperture, and camera make and model.

In some ways it is harder to use an auto camera with a full program mode as you don't know what compromises it is making for subject contrast.

I sometimes take incident or shadow readings with a separate meter as well as one on a camera.

Using a camera is a bit like piloting an aircraft as it is way easy to land with the wheels up, you need to check every step first...

Developing is just as difficult.

 

[Ashfaque]

I certainly didn't do i-iii. I don't recall the shutter speed. The aperture was largely between f4-7 (Minolta Dynax body and kit lens).

Anyway, I'm confused how to dev this roll with Rodinal, HC-110, SPUR Acurol-N, or SPUR HRX) and the corresponding agitation method. So your help would be a great help.

Bests,

Ashfaque

 

[Dennis S]

Thanks MrBrowning for the stand dev. and semi-stand dev. ideas. I don't have X-tol.

Any other ideas, please? I like to hear a few more development options, if available and possible. I wonder how many of these initiations I'll have to go through!

Bests,

Ashfaque

More than 1 ;o)

 

[yorbard]

Rodinal is likely your best bet


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