Help choosing a Hasselblad.

P1505 · Jun 30, 2019

Hi all.

I know this is a purely analogue space, and I do mention digital, but I can’t find a better place to post. Feel free to move to a better forum.

I’m looking for some advice. After many (many) years of thinking about getting into medium format the announcement of the new and maybe affordable digital back from Hasselblad has tipped me over the edge. I want to make the plunge, shooting film until I find a digital back, and I want a Hasselblad compatible with the new sensor. But which body, back, hood etc I’m lost on.

I shoot a Leica M9 with either 35 or 50mm on. I like those focal lengths. I like but don’t need TTL metering, and obviously am happy manually focussing. I don’t shoot a huge amount of photos, and am looking to reduce that. The new camera is to be my meditative tool, the M9 will be my action tool until it dies. Then I’ll buy whatever the cheapest M is at the time.

Given the announcement, if you were looking for a camera to attach to that sensor, what would you go for?

Budget, think £2k to get me started.

Thanks all.

Sirius Glass · Jun 30, 2019

£2k is more than adequate for at least the camera with room to buy a sensor. I can only speak to the camera and lenses. Buy the newest body you can afford, but you do not need a power winder. A 503 CX has all the features you need for film or digital and should run between $400US and $500US. The 80mm lens will run between $300US and $400US. The same for the 50mm lens. The 60mm lens is too close to the 80mm lens to make worth buying. Buy CF or later lenses first because almost all with take the B60 filters and one set of filters will do the job. Since you are interested in digital too, you should consider the lenses that have the electrical interface.

In the past the 30mm Fisheye lens, SWC [38mm], and the 40mm lens did not work with digital sensors, and I believe that is still true.

I am not current on the digital sensors since I only shoot film.

Feel free to ask questions. FYI I own and use the 30mm Fisheye, the 903 SWC [38mm], 50mm, 80mm, 100mm, 150mm, 250mm and 500mm lenses and 2XE.

John Galt · Jun 30, 2019

When I purchased a second (backup) body for my trips abroad David Odess recommended the 500 C/M. When I asked "why" he said that they were the last bodies Hasselblad made before they started cutting corners and there were still parts available for them in case they needed to be repaired. I have two, both purchased from KEH in Excellent + condition and have been very happy with them for two years now.

BrianShaw · Jun 30, 2019

Wow, if the 501CM is after corners were cut...

John Galt · Jun 30, 2019

BrianShaw said:
Wow, if the 501CM is after corners were cut...

That is NOT what I said . . . re read my comment please.

the C/M is the LAST series that Hasselblad did NOT cut corners on.

Grim Tuesday · Jun 30, 2019

I would recommend a 500CM. Honestly, 500C is fine, and I got mine for $120 a year or two ago from Roberts Photo which left plenty in the bank for lenses. But, I do wish I had a different focusing screen, and I'm going to have to spend some money now to get it changed, which I wouldn't have to do if I had a 500C/M. I resell hasselblad gear to fund my own addition so I watch prices pretty closely. The best deals are always in auctions of lots in eBay. It will usually be 20% or more cheaper than buying it piece by piece. eBay is a very good marketplace for buyers right now. If the seller doesn't describe their camera accurately you have every right to return it and eBay will side with you.

John Galt · Jun 30, 2019

Grim Tuesday said:
I would recommend a 500CM. Honestly, 500C is fine, and I got mine for $120 a year or two ago from Roberts Photo which left plenty in the bank for lenses. But, I do wish I had a different focusing screen, and I'm going to have to spend some money now to get it changed, which I wouldn't have to do if I had a 500C/M. I resell hasselblad gear to fund my own addition so I watch prices pretty closely. The best deals are always in auctions of lots in eBay. It will usually be 20% or more cheaper than buying it piece by piece. eBay is a very good marketplace for buyers right now. If the seller doesn't describe their camera accurately you have every right to return it and eBay will side with you.

Well said. I agree except the 500C has very little parts support according to David Odess. The C/M was a major upgrade before the cost cutting began. The focusing screen issue alone is enough to spring the extra $$ for the C/M. IMHO.

BrianShaw · Jun 30, 2019

What was the cost cutting after the 500CM? I’m confused. What are you talking about? Please educate us on what cost cutting was done and how that affected either quality or reliability.

Advising someone to steer clear of the 200/2000 series would be better advise to offer.

Hasselblad is a very respected professional camera. The 501 and 503 are exceptional tools. Being newer than a 500CM they are more likely to be in better condition.

If paying the least amount of money... that’s a point... but that’s not the point being made.

John Galt · Jun 30, 2019

BrianShaw said:
What was the cost cutting? I’m confused. What are you talking about? Please educate us on what cost cutting was done and how that affected either quality or reliability.

Advising someone to steer clear of the 200/2000 series would be better advise to offer.

Hasselblad is a very respected professional camera. The 501 and 503 are exceptional tools. Being newer than a 500CM they are more likely to be in better condition.

If paying the least amount of money... that’s a point... but that’s not the point being made.

Cost cutting measure number 1:

No cocked indicator on body post 500 C/M. Just how many jammed bodies has that one item contributed to? Hmm?? You're welcome

BrianShaw · Jun 30, 2019

OK... I guess i consider that shedding useless functionality for a more robust and reliable design. Fewer moving parts that offer redundant capabilities ... I guess if one can’t figure out the mirror is still up then having a little dot as a reminder is useful.

I really haven’t heard of many post 500’s jamming...

Next... I’m all ears.

Kodachromeguy · Jun 30, 2019

There is excellent advice here. Be aware that Hasselblad Bron in New Jersey still accepts the V bodies (mechanical film) for maintenance. I Sent my 501CM for their check to spec inspection and decided to have the body and back overhauled. I decided to take advantage of their expertise because as the years go by, more and more of these services are closing or the technicians retiring - and parts are disappearing. This 501CM will serve my needs the rest of my days photographing with 120.

P.S., update: For the same reasons of retiring technicians and limited parts supplies, get your Leica M and thread-mount cameras, Yashicamats, Rolleiflexes, etc. overhauled now. Just pay the expense, do it. In the next decade, the cost will only go up if it is even possible to have the service done.

BrianShaw · Jun 30, 2019

The willingness to ensure that a Hassy is well-maintained is the key to Hassy happiness.

More jams and other problems seem to be the result of worn out or poorly maintained gear, or user error from not knowing how they work.

John Galt · Jun 30, 2019

BrianShaw said:
I really haven’t heard of many post 500’s jamming...

Really??

it is an absolutely delightful pleasure you cannot fully appreciate until it happens to you, the cocked indicator on the body helps to avoid it (not on post 500 C/M). Even ~with~ the cocked indicator on the body I have farked things up and needed to resort to re-cocking the lens with a screwdriver (through the body) to get it off of the body . . . . if it works (the screwdriver through the body trick) . . . . most of the time

BrianShaw · Jun 30, 2019

Really. IDK... I just look through the viewfinder before mounting or unmounting lenses. In your case, though, how is that unfortunate situation a result of “Hasselblad cost cutting”?

John Galt · Jun 30, 2019

BrianShaw said:
The willingness to ensure that a Hassy is well-maintained is the key to Hassy happiness.

More jams and other problems seem to be the result of worn out or poorly maintained gear, or user error from not knowing how they work.

That is why I chose KEH Excellent + purchases And I recommend this to the OP

BrianShaw · Jun 30, 2019

John Galt said:
That is why I chose KEH Excellent + purchases And I recommend this to the OP

Yes, very good advise. But the best condition you can afford. And if you can’t afford, don’t buy.

mshchem · Jun 30, 2019

P1505 said:
Hi all.

I know this is a purely analogue space, and I do mention digital, but I can’t find a better place to post. Feel free to move to a better forum.

I’m looking for some advice. After many (many) years of thinking about getting into medium format the announcement of the new and maybe affordable digital back from Hasselblad has tipped me over the edge. I want to make the plunge, shooting film until I find a digital back, and I want a Hasselblad compatible with the new sensor. But which body, back, hood etc I’m lost on.

I shoot a Leica M9 with either 35 or 50mm on. I like those focal lengths. I like but don’t need TTL metering, and obviously am happy manually focussing. I don’t shoot a huge amount of photos, and am looking to reduce that. The new camera is to be my meditative tool, the M9 will be my action tool until it dies. Then I’ll buy whatever the cheapest M is at the time.

Given the announcement, if you were looking for a camera to attach to that sensor, what would you go for?

Budget, think £2k to get me started.

Thanks all.

501cm. Make sure it has the Acute-Matte focusing screen. 2k £ would be plenty to buy a nice kit camera in the US. The Acute-Matte screens are the best thing about the newer bodies. I have a 503 CW body as well, if you want to shoot TTL-OTF flash this is equipped. The ttl flash feature only works with FILM. The flash sensor is calibrated for reading reflected light from film. I would go for a nice 501cm. MHO

Sirius Glass · Jun 30, 2019

John Galt said:
Really??

it is an absolutely delightful pleasure you cannot fully appreciate until it happens to you, the cocked indicator on the body helps to avoid it (not on post 500 C/M). Even ~with~ the cocked indicator on the body I have farked things up and needed to resort to re-cocking the lens with a screwdriver (through the body) to get it off of the body . . . . if it works (the screwdriver through the body trick) . . . . most of the time

I always check the two indicators before I think about changing lenses.

Sirius Glass · Jun 30, 2019

John Galt said:
That is why I chose KEH Excellent + purchases And I recommend this to the OP

So do I. I bought a C 500mm lens from KEH. It jammed the first time I fired the shutter. Mike at Samys on Fairfax unjammed the lens, and I sent it back to KEH. KEH did a full CLA which included bench tuning the optics because all the optics needed to be removed to do the CLA. Thus the optics were realigned and calibrated as part of the CLA. There was not charge for the shipping back and forth, and no charge for the CLA.

Sirius Glass · Jun 30, 2019

mshchem said:
501cm. Make sure it has the Acute-Matte focusing screen. 2k £ would be plenty to buy a nice kit camera in the US. The Acute-Matte screens are the best thing about the newer bodies. I have a 503 CW body as well, if you want to shoot TTL-OTF flash this is equipped. The ttl flash feature only works with FILM. The flash sensor is calibrated for reading reflected light from film. I would go for a nice 501cm. MHO

The 503 CX has the same TTl-OTF flash without the power wind option, which will not help with a digital back.

P1505 · Jul 1, 2019

Ok thanks all. So the 501cm. Only one on eBay in the UK and they want top dollar so I’ll keep hunting. Loads in Japan in great condition, but I’d prefer to buy a little more locally

P1505 · Jul 1, 2019

Have found this, would prefer the A12 back though: https://www.dalephotographic.co.uk/...16s-back.html#product-description-tab-content

John Galt · Jul 1, 2019

P1505 said:
Have found this, would prefer the A12 back though: https://www.dalephotographic.co.uk/...16s-back.html#product-description-tab-content

I would grab that while you can. The price is certainly reasonable for that Excelent ++ body. They are giving away the 16s magazine with the camera body. The "S" stands for Super Slide, the neg is 1 5/8 x 1 5/8" . . . WHY?? Who the fark knows . . .. They are rare but it makes a nice paper weight and/or conversation piece. Now if it was the A16 or A12 magazine that would be a GREAT deal. I have one A16 magazine and two A12 magazines in my Hasselblad kit.

So . . . . Dale = KEH in the UK?? Hmmm. KEH Photo here in the states has several Ex+ C/Ms . . .

bdial · Jul 1, 2019

The super slide format gave you slides mountable in a standard 2x2 (in.) slide mount to wow you friends who only shot 35mm slides.
But, as John indicates, the back and format are a bit useless otherwise, it wastes quite a lot of film area. If you are happy with the price and buy that camera, you may just want to hand the back back to them (but make sure to buy a 12 back).

P1505 · Jul 1, 2019

I’ve asked them if a deal can be done with an A12 back and a lens.

The 503x can be found everywhere though if that’s any good? I’m so new to this format it confuses me For a while I though you had to roll the film AND the shutter on after each shot.

Have a deposit on the new digital back they just announced. So need something ready for that Although the idea of shooting film again does excite me. 12 shots per day, not per second.

Help choosing a Hasselblad.

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