Help again with 127mm Ektar

Camel Rock

A
Camel Rock

  • 1
  • 0
  • 13
Wattle Creek Station

A
Wattle Creek Station

  • 3
  • 0
  • 22
Cole Run Falls

A
Cole Run Falls

  • 2
  • 2
  • 17
Clay Pike

A
Clay Pike

  • 3
  • 1
  • 20

Forum statistics

Threads
198,937
Messages
2,783,492
Members
99,751
Latest member
lyrarapax
Recent bookmarks
0
Joined
Feb 22, 2006
Messages
1,213
Location
Hawaii
Format
35mm RF
Hey again, thanks for all the good advice about a lens hood, i'm still looking.
I seem to have bad luck in Ektars. My most current one is generally in fine shape but for a bit of edge fungus in the front cell group. I need to figure out a way to get in there to clean. To head off the "don't do it, leave it to a pro" postings, I have worked on 75+ nikkors as well as many many MF and other LF lenses, most with sucess, so I have the ablity to do it. I just need to figure out how to get into that front cell section, I have a diagram of the element layout, and have isolated which one to clean. My trouble is how to get there! As you know, the 127mm Ektar has no filter threads, and my guess is that the retaining ring pops out somehow, I just know there is a trick. I do have another 127mm Ektar, Non L, that's in even worse shape so I can practice on that first. Any and All ideas are welcome, Thanks
 

k_jupiter

Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2004
Messages
2,569
Location
san jose, ca
Format
Multi Format
Hey again, thanks for all the good advice about a lens hood, i'm still looking.
I seem to have bad luck in Ektars. My most current one is generally in fine shape but for a bit of edge fungus in the front cell group. I need to figure out a way to get in there to clean. To head off the "don't do it, leave it to a pro" postings, I have worked on 75+ nikkors as well as many many MF and other LF lenses, most with sucess, so I have the ablity to do it. I just need to figure out how to get into that front cell section, I have a diagram of the element layout, and have isolated which one to clean. My trouble is how to get there! As you know, the 127mm Ektar has no filter threads, and my guess is that the retaining ring pops out somehow, I just know there is a trick. I do have another 127mm Ektar, Non L, that's in even worse shape so I can practice on that first. Any and All ideas are welcome, Thanks

I had thought, from previous existing information and observation, is that the front elements come off as a group, the front two elements are cemented, hence not worth pulling apart. I could be mistaken, just throwing it out for conversation. I have cleaned the front and rear elements of the two groups, but never went any further.

tim in san jose
 

PHOTOTONE

Member
Joined
Oct 30, 2006
Messages
2,412
Location
Van Buren, A
Format
Large Format
If the front elements are cemented, and the deterioration is in the cement bond, then it is a rather complicated and specialist task to uncement the elements clean all the deteriorated cement and re-cement. There are some online instructions for this, but it is not for the faint of heart. Also, some lenses have "burnished" mounts, where an edge of metal is actually burnished or bent over the rear element edge to hold it in place. If this is the case with the Ektar, then you have to put the element in a lathe and cut away, very gently, the burnished lip. then, of course you have to figure out a way to retain the elements when you reassemble.
 
OP
OP
Christiaan Phleger
Joined
Feb 22, 2006
Messages
1,213
Location
Hawaii
Format
35mm RF
Cr@p. I re-lloked at the diagram at Dead Link Removed and it looks as if the front cell group is cemented. Arrgh. The first E@@@ purchase was locked into a wooden graphic board which I still haven't figured out how to get the shutter out, plus the front element has a scratch from 2 to 6 o'clock, much too big to ignore. Plus, not a Luminized lens. The current one is quite clean and in a better shutter (super-X) and the elements are very clean save for the very slight edge fungus. I shot a few test chromes to see what is looks like, but on the ground glass looks very sharp, I never really believed that the Ektars were better than most lenses of the period but this one impressed me. Except for the fungus. Maybe I will try to find a single front cell. Thanks for the help, if I'm really desperate for a project I'll get the clear UV cement from Microtools and have a go. Aloha.
 

Dan Fromm

Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2005
Messages
6,826
Format
Multi Format
The 127/4.7 Ektar is a tessar type. So the front cell consists of two singlets with an air space between them. I believe that the problem with getting them out for cleaning is that they're spun in.
 
OP
OP
Christiaan Phleger
Joined
Feb 22, 2006
Messages
1,213
Location
Hawaii
Format
35mm RF
See, thats what I thought. I guess I'm looking at that diagram wrong, but I thought the arrow pointed towards the Front of the lens.
So, what is Spun In?
 

k_jupiter

Member
Joined
Feb 3, 2004
Messages
2,569
Location
san jose, ca
Format
Multi Format
The 127/4.7 Ektar is a tessar type. So the front cell consists of two singlets with an air space between them. I believe that the problem with getting them out for cleaning is that they're spun in.

You could be quite right. The mind goes with every passing day. All I know is there was no way for me to see a method for separation.

Sorry for the misinformation,

tim in san jose
 

Dan Fromm

Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2005
Messages
6,826
Format
Multi Format
Spun in? The lip of the bit that holds the glasses is folded over to hold them in place. Makes replacement after removal difficult.
 
OP
OP
Christiaan Phleger
Joined
Feb 22, 2006
Messages
1,213
Location
Hawaii
Format
35mm RF
Hmm, I am thinking it is possible to go in from the front, 'filter' side. Rear most looks pretty set, maybe 'spun'. I'm going to try it on the thrasher one once I find it...camera rooms' a bit of mess at the moment.
 

summilux

Member
Joined
Jan 21, 2005
Messages
1
Format
4x5 Format
Ektar 127 is threaded (at least mine is). It's just that the threads are covered by the engraved retaining ring. Take a rubber thing that fits on the bottom of chair legs. Buy one/trim one so that it is same diameter as the engraved ring but does not touch the glass. Push and turn counter-clockwise (lefty loosy, righty tighty). The engraved ring should turn. Keep turning untill the ring unscrews. The front element will now come out if you turn the lens upside down.

Have fun.

Jonathan
 
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.

PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Ilford ADOX Freestyle Photographic Stearman Press Weldon Color Lab Blue Moon Camera & Machine
Top Bottom