??? Please explain why not when every film/chemical manufacturer states to use a stop bath between developer and fix?Shouldn't need stop
• No stop bath necessary. Just use water rinse after developing.
??? Please explain why not when every film/chemical manufacturer states to use a stop bath between developer and fix?
Good grief, hasn't the discussion between vinegar and stop been beaten to death?
How long does the fixer last if constantly exposed to developer last?
I know that you're a chemist, but??? I'm at a loss.
Sirius Glass should chime in here.
Good grief, hasn't the discussion between vinegar and stop been beaten to death?
Stop bath is a ritual.
We have tomes on whether or not stop bath is necessary!
I'm in the "use it" camp.
To the OP - what is the concentration of the acetic acid you have? And if you have glacial acetic acid - nasty stuff! - are you experienced in handling it?
Your target concentration should be about 1.5% to 2.0% for working stop bath.
I've added 'TF4 alkaline' to the thread title to make it a little more descriptive of the content.
The general idea with an alkaline fixer is to keep the whole process alkaline. There is no real reason to use an alkaline fixer with an acid stop bath. If you want to use a n acid stop bath rather than a water bath (a point not worth debating again) then just use regular acidic or neutral fixer. They are easier and cheaper to get.
The data sheet for TF-4 says:
Is TF-4 an Alkaline fixer, the concentrate has a pH of 5 according to the MSDS
Maintains an alkaline pH throughout the process.
The datasheet says:
The MSDS says the pH is 5 which is acidic, and Ron Mowrey stated it was Neutral, he also called it an Alkali fixer.
Ian
??? Please explain why not when every film/chemical manufacturer states to use a stop bath between developer and fix?
Good grief, hasn't the discussion between vinegar and stop been beaten to death?
How long does the fixer last if constantly exposed to developer last?
I know that you're a chemist, but??? I'm at a loss.
Sirius Glass should chime in here.
Yes and we all know that stop bath, stop bath with indicator and Acetic acid are just so damned expensive! But for black & white film, TF4 and TF5 do not need stop bath et al. Color film is another discussion.
Good point, if there are solids in the bottle then this could substantially change the pH when in working solution.Doesn't TF4 come as a concentrate with some undissolved solids in the bottle? With the instructions to mix all of it and make a working solution? Perhaps the sediment is a poorly soluble alkali and it shifts pH above 7, making it alkaline. Isn't TF4 also supposed to be well buffered and capable to cope with stop baths?
I have no opinion on stop bath yes/no, but that pH 5 number is odd. It is even more odd, that TF-5 lists the exact same number, and it is yet more odd, that a density of 1.07 @ 20°C is given in the same section. Compare this to typical densities of liquid rapid fixer concentrates, which circle around 1.34 @20°C. The specific gravity number would at least be in line with typical rapid fixer working solutions, but the pH numbers are most likely incorrect.
Hi, with D23 developer;
What is the opinion on using TF-4 Alkaline Fixer?
I also have a bottle of Acetic acid, that I could mix for a stop bath.
if the these two combinations would work,
may I ask please, what ratio of Acetic acid to distilled water is recommended?
thanks very much!
I did not mean to over agitate the collective film
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