OP, the formula given in post #2 above is correct. Arthur Cox' book Photographic Optics (available from used booksellers on line, not as inexpensive as I'd like) gives a fuller explanation.
It is also useful to think in terms of the magnification, m. m = d_image / d_object. You can then rewrite the thin lens equation as:
1/f = 1/d_obj * 1/(m * d_obj)
and also find that, d_image = f * (1+m),
and the extension past infinity is e = m * f.
With a little algebra, the thin lens equation then gives: d_obj = f * (f/e + 1).
That means that, when you are at non-macro distances and f/e is largish, the extension required to focus at a given lens to object distance goes up roughly as the square of the focal length. This is why long focal length lenses need a lot of bellows (and also why they have shallow depth of field in the image space, but that's another story).
Also, realize that the folks at Linhof have all the equations, but their focus cams are all matched to each lens with bench testing (supposedly). So, no problem if the math is not perfect, you will still have to use a ground glass and tape measure to finalize your scale.
Also, realize that the folks at Linhof have all the equations, but their focus cams are all matched to each lens with bench testing (supposedly). So, no problem if the math is not perfect, you will still have to use a ground glass and tape measure to finalize your scale.
I did that for my 6x17 of course. But when you don't have any "body" or support it is pretty cumbersome to find out the needed distance. It is easy to say when you can move the lens for 10cm that you only need 1cm