Decant into smaller bottles and get a syringe to accurately measure for one shot. Not so sure of the new formula, but the old stuff went darker with age, although that didn't mean it was losing potency. Good luck and enjoy.As the bottle gets used keep the air out.
Just not sure how I feel about the 6ml for dil. h that's listed for the 300ml tank.http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/
All you need to know about HC110.
Any recommendations for smaller bottles?Decant into smaller bottles and get a syringe to accurately measure for one shot. Not so sure of the new formula, but the old stuff went darker with age, although that didn't mean it was losing potency. Good luck and enjoy.
Makes sense, but I have a few films that only have dil. h times available.Make up a 2 L bottle and replenish. Dilution B
Yep, already got some syringes.Pick up a few 10ml syringes and "blunt tip needles" (I got mine from amazon) 14 guage is the ideal size; ( like these for example https://www.amazon.com/20-Pack-Blunt-Dispensing-Needle/dp/B07QYMD2VB/ref=sr_1_20?dchild=1&keywords=blunt+tip+needle&qid=1591109949&sr=8-20&th=1 ) This is the easiest way to draw up HC-110. Especially with the older formulations of HC-110, decanting into a graduated cylinder can be challenging.
These also work well for drawing up Rodinal and other concentrated liquid developers.
I might try that when I get to those films.For those reasons, dilution H is only reliable in bigger tanks - often with an empty reel to fill space.
Plan on giving your film slightly more exposure than you are used to with your old process. HC110 typically causes a slight loss of film speed. It might not be enough to worry about, given the fact that B&W film has pretty broad exposure latitude, but why not be on the safe side? How much extra exposure you ask? I dunno, maybe 1/3 stop compared to D76. What does everyone else think?
I use dilution H most often and leave an empty reel in the tank to make sure I have enough concentrate for each roll. Occasionally I’ve cheated a bit and gone down to 5ml per roll and I got away with it but I don’t make it a habit to gamble like that.
HC-110 is very sensitive to dilution so be sure to measure as accurately as possible. Fairly small changes in dilution can lead to noticeable differences in behavior.
Dilution B usually results in pretty quick dev times and the results are very similar to D-76 straight but maybe a little less mid contrast (IME). Dilution H times are exactly twice as long (which I like) and the results are more similar (to my eye) to D76 1:1 with, perhaps, a little more acutance.
I’ve only used the old, syrupy stuff (I have some stockpiled). As I understand it, the new stuff behaves exactly the same but is not expected to have the same shelf life. For decanting into smaller containers I ended up buying a bunch of 125ml hot sauce style bottles that I use to decant both HC-110 and Rodinal. I suspect that brown glass ‘Boston round’ bottles from a real lab glass supplier would be a nicer choice but these have worked fine for me.
As a fellow D-76 user I also feel the need to mention that, while I really like HC-110 for its convenience and incredible versatility, I tend to prefer the mid tones I get with D-76 1:1, especially with traditional-grain films.
Ultimate dumb question time-
If I want to develop a film in dilution H, but there's no time given, I just double the dilution b time...?
yes, I've seen the information on Tri X. that's one I've yet to develop in hc110, and I'll probably do some tests at some point.If you are using Tri-X make sure you read the notes about developing times in http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/ :
I quote -- "Note about Kodak Tri-X Pan and Plus-X Pan: Kodak's published time for the new 400TX film in dilution B is 3 3/4 minutes at 68 F. That is too short to be practical, and I think they have made a serious mistake; it looks to me like the time for dilution A. I think they used the wrong dilution in their testing for both 400TX and 125PX.
Numerous photographers tell me that the correct time for 400TX is only a few percent shorter than for the old TX. Even Kodak told me the same thing – though they insist that they didn't mix up the dilutions.
However, it's generally agreed that Kodak's published time of 7.5 minutes for TX in dilution B was a bit long. Most photographers recommend about 6 to 7 minutes.
I want to thank Dick Dickerson and Silvia Zawadzki (retired from Kodak, part of the team that invented Xtol) for correspondence about this. They, too, think the wrong dilution was used in Kodak's tests. It will be interesting to see if the published time changes in future Kodak publications.
After further thought, I suspect that there really isn't much difference between 3.5 minutes and 5 minutes. The reason? This is almost entirely within the induction time (the time taken to start development). Results with development times this short are notoriously irreproducible and I recommend higher dilutions." -- end of quote--.
Yes, dilution H (unofficial) is 1:62. Also, do use a minimum of 6ml of syrup per roll as Kodak recommends.
Actually, dilution H is 1 + 63 or, expressed another way, 1 part concentrate plus 63 parts water or, expressed yet another way, one part concentrate in a total volume of 64 parts.Yes, dilution H (unofficial) is 1:62
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