The syrup will last practically forever even if you leave the lid off a partly filled bottle.Gerald Koch said:When you open the HC-110 it's best to transfer the contents in to smaller (say 4 ounce) glass bottles. Once you do this the syrup will last practically forever. You can buy glass bottles from most pharmacies.
gainer said:The syrup will last practically forever even if you leave the lid off a partly filled bottle.
Here is an experiment you can do that I have done, and reported in Photo Techniques. Look for the article "New Developments." I don't remember what issue. Put a drop of HC-110 syrup on a piece of film in roomlight. See how long it takes to blacken the film. When you get tired of waiting, put a drop of water on the drop of syrup. You will see that without water, HC-110 is nearly inactive. Eventually, of course, it will take up enough water from the atmosphere to become active. If the HC-110 will not blacken film, it is not an oxidizing agent.Gerald Koch said:Decanting the contents of the plastic bottle into several smaller glass bottles is recommended by the unofficial HC-110 resource site. http://www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/
Have you tested your assertion concerning lidless bottles of HC-110? As a chemist I find the statement troublesome.
gainer said:... If the HC-110 will not blacken film, it is not an oxidizing agent. ...
So now you know I'm 78 years old. Of course I should have said HC-110 will not BE oxidized without ionization of its reducing agents. And that is just a theory that I think I tested. I won't go so far as a teacher of mine did when he said "I could be wrong. After all, there's a first time for everything." I've already had my first time...and second, and third.Ole said:That's good to know, since most developers are reducing agents
I suppose one could calculate from the components of HC-110 and the volume of airspace in the bottle how many exchanges of that air it would take to change the characteristics of the syrup. The partial pressure of CO2 is usually reckoned at 4 mm of mercury on average out of 760. Water vapor can be estimated from an air conditioning chart for any given relative humidity. Without the absorbed water, I doubt there will be a lot of effect of absorbed CO2. Should not my simple experiment with a drop of HC-110 on exposed film show if the things absorbed from the air are a problem? Of course, if adding the bit of water did not cause the film to blacken quickly, it might be concluded that stuff from the air deactivated the HC-110, but that is not what happened.Gerald Koch said:I never mentioned oxidation of the developer. This is only one consideration. There is also absorption of water and carbon dioxide from the air among other things.
One cannot make conclusions from negative results. Failure to produce a darkened spot could mean that the developer is fine and has not adsorbed any water or it could mean that it is completely degraded. In the case where the developer produced a spot is it still active enough to develop film without extending the development time?gainer said:Should not my simple experiment with a drop of HC-110 on exposed film show if the things absorbed from the air are a problem?
Catechol is supposed to have been used in place of hydroquinone at times.
You didn't read the whole thing. Myoriginal simple experiment covered the possibility that the HC-110 was no good from the start by making sure that it was activated by water after having been inactive for a period of time.Gerald Koch said:One cannot make conclusions from negative results. Failure to produce a darkened spot could mean that the developer is fine and has not adsorbed any water or it could mean that it is completely degraded. In the case where the developer produced a spot is it still active enough to develop film without extending the development time?
I've heard this too. At one time HC-110 Replenisher contained catechol as it was listed on the label. Concerning the developer itself in pre-MSDS times we have no way of knowing as Kodak has no comment on this.
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