Thank you very much for the input, I'll look into it.You might be able to extend the developing time of dilution A by following this method. @alanrockwood posted some data based on his experiments that compare the slowed down dilution A with the standard dilution H here.
FWIW, dilution A was essentially intended for graphic arts materials rather than "normal" photographic materials.
An application that Eastman Kodak never intended!It's also used in @Donald Qualls' monobath.
An application that Eastman Kodak never intended!
I pulled out my very old Kodak Master Darkroom Dataguide, about 1964, and for small tank development (5sec. agitation at 30sec intervals)
- HC-110 Dil. A for Tri-X 135 = 28.5min
- HC-110 Dil B for Tri-X 135 = 33min
Oh, doh!Wilt, those numbers of 28.5 and 33 are indexes for the Developing Dial, the time-temperature calculator in the Dataguide, not minutes.
My 1974 Darkroom Dataguide gives for Tri-X 135, indexes of 29.5 and 36.5 in Dil A and Dil B, which are 4 min and 7.5 min at temp = 68 F/20 C.
The indexes are intended to be modified by small amounts for various things like enlarger type (condenser/diffusion), etc.
I have compared Dilution A and B and I found that the difference in grain and general look isn't significant at all. All signs point to Dilution B being better overall also due to it being more economical. So no, I'm not really gaining anything at all, but I managed to satisfy my curiosity. That's about it I guessHave you done a direct comparision to Dil B to see if you are really gaining anything? B has a nice fine grain look beating out most common developers. Microdol X is finer and very nice, but with a speed loss. I happened to do a lot of comparison a couple months ago since I have an awful lot of 400 film when lately I really would be better off with something finer grain, even if slower.
I agree, Dilution A does feel odd. As you said, economy is a major factor and I'd say that the large amounts of concentrate you use, outweighs the fine grain properties. Dilution B seems to be much better across the board. But at least we got to satisfy our curiosity, and I guess any input on any topic is beneficial in some way.Looks really nice. I may have to try it. I usually pick my HC-110 dilution to get as close to 5 minutes as a can. I've haven't used much dilution A because all the conventional wisdom says not go below 5 minutes. I have some Ilford FP4 which is 4.5 minutes at Dilution A, so might good a good starting point. I use Dilution B last time I developed FP4. The downside is that I like the economy of HC-110. Using Dilution A will use it up faster. I've only used Dilution A when pushing film. Dilution A does feel weird. Very much like I am using way too much developer as I am measuring it out.
great esults! It's my firm believe that uneven development always comes from uneven agitation.Since using constant rotation with a Jobo, I haven't experienced any uneven development anymore.I've been experimenting with HC-110 Dilution A recently for the sole purpose of achieving really fine grain with a developer that has a very long shelf life. I simply wanted to see if it worked. Recently, I read that HC-110 acts as a solvent developer when used in higher concentrations, so I did some research on Dilution A, but to my surprise, I couldn't find any information on Dilution A, until I stumbled across a video by KingJvpes, who uses Dilution A as his concentration of choice. Besides that, I couldn't seek out anybody else who has made experiences using Dilution A. So I tried it out myself.
It worked wonderfully. No uneven development (at least I couldn't make out any.), nicely balanced contrast, and most importantly (for me at least) beautifully fine grain.
I used a roll of AGFA APX 400 (New), shot at box speed. I developed the roll at 20C for 2:30 minutes.
I poured the developer as fast as possible without spilling everything and then I agitated with the agitating stick (Paterson) for the first 30 seconds. I then put on the lid, and inverted the tank for 10 seconds at the 1:00 minute mark. I then let it sit for the remainder of the time, pouring the developer out quickly as soon as the timer hit zero. After that was done, I stopped and fixed as normal.
I then experimented further with agitation methods, just out of curiosity. (Mind you, all of this experimentation with Dilution A stems from pure curiosity.) I found that the "Figure 8 swirling" agitation method left me with terribly unevenly developed negatives. So that's of the table entirely.
Since then, I have developed HP5 Plus in Dilution A with the first method and have gotten beautiful results.
Now let's adress the elephant in the room. Consistency.
Analogue shooters and film developing enthusiasts have shunned any form of developing agent that requires a development time shorter than 5 minutes, some being even more strict, citing the lack of consistency as their main reason.
I simply can't imagine that consistency will suffer in any way with this method, if you really take care to execute everything as precisely as possible every time. And even it might sound like it, it's not difficult or a hassle at all.
I would very much appreciate any opinions on this topic.
Thank you.
Here are some sample photos, The pictures of the plants are from a roll of APX 400 (New) at box speed, the picture of the three guys is from a roll of HP5 Plus also at box speed.View attachment 279365 View attachment 279362
View attachment 279361
I am finishing a bulk roll Orwo UN54 right now. I am developing in Dilution E, which is 1:47 for 6 mins. I think it is safe to say no Dilution A for that film. But whenever, I get some 400 speed film, or shoot some FP4 that I have in 120; I will definitely use dilution A. FP4 has a time listed as 4.5 mins in dilution A. Might be a nice combo. Dilution A is great for pushing film. I really don't want to spend 20 mins swirling developer. One reason I started using HC-110 was the shorter developing times. So dilution A has some uses and I really want to give it a go with something at box speed and a super short development time. Well mostly because, everyone says not to. And I hate being told what to do. Also, Experimenting is part if the fun of photography. And developing Black and White film is an easy place to do it. Life would be so boring if we all did exactly the same thing.
I am finishing a bulk roll Orwo UN54 right now. I am developing in Dilution E, which is 1:47 for 6 mins. I think it is safe to say no Dilution A for that film. But whenever, I get some 400 speed film, or shoot some FP4 that I have in 120; I will definitely use dilution A. FP4 has a time listed as 4.5 mins in dilution A. Might be a nice combo. Dilution A is great for pushing film. I really don't want to spend 20 mins swirling developer. One reason I started using HC-110 was the shorter developing times. So dilution A has some uses and I really want to give it a go with something at box speed and a super short development time. Well mostly because, everyone says not to. And I hate being told what to do. Also, Experimenting is part if the fun of photography. And developing Black and White film is an easy place to do it. Life would be so boring if we all did exactly the same thing.
great esults! It's my firm believe that uneven development always comes from uneven agitation.Since using constant rotation with a Jobo, I haven't experienced any uneven development anymore.
Worth noting that Dilutions A and B were originally intended to be used replenished in high volume -- so economy as a one-shot wasn't really a concern (that's what weaker dilutions were for).
I recall my own results with the HC-110 monobath (tested with 2000 vintage Tri-X 35mm) were very comparable in grain to Tri-X in Dilution B and a conventional process -- with the caveat that at that time my only way to examine the negatives beyond a loupe was with a scanner limited to 1200 ppi (and widely claimed to be optically less than that). I never tried the monobath again after getting my enlarger, so never attempted to enlarge the negatives (generally had more I wanted to print than time to print them).
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