Having a problem processing Provia with Tetenal E-6 Kit

[Matthew Cherry]

Hello All!

So I just started processing my own color film with a Jobo processor. I developed a few 4x5 sheets of Provia the other week and noticed it was warm when finished. I thought, maybe I just had made a mistake mixing the chemistry or with the times.

The other day I shot a roll of 120 Provia 100F as well as a roll of Ektachrom 100GX. I processed both at the same time using the same chemistry.

The Ektachrome looks perfect. Spot on. The Provia, once again, is way too red.

As a result, I think my processing is ok, but I need to somehow compensate for the Fuji Film.

Any advice APUGers????

 

[Diapositivo]

A reddish cast with E-6 could be the result of too high processing temperature.
I have no idea why the Ektachrome came out correctly and the Provia came out too red.

Maybe your Jobo drum is not perfectly horizontal, one half doesn't sit well in the water and develops "cooler" (Ektachrome) while the other is warmer.

At which temperature do you set the Jobo? How many minutes of first developer?

I have a Jobo CPP2 with "lift", I set the temperature at 38.3, the speed between P and 6.

In general Fujichrome film needs a bit more development time than Kodak (different thickness of the emulsion, or whatever).
The canonic 6:30 become 7:00 or even 7:30 for Astia.
You should develop Astia and Kodak film separately and, through tests, determine the correct development time in your setup for each film*.

The difference between 6:30 and 7:30 corresponds to around half a stop.

YMMV

* I know in theory E-6 is E-6 is E-6, but practice and theory sometimes diverge.

 

[Matthew Cherry]

I also have a Jobo CPP2 with "lift". I set the dials to 39.7 but measure both the bath and chemistry with photo thermometers. Each is stabilized right at 100 degrees F before I start, as is the rinse water. Pre-soak is carried out with the same pre-warmed water. The unit is properly leveled.

I developed both for 6:30. I will shoot another roll of provia and test with a longer time. Do you shoot Provia 100f? If so, what development time do you use?

 

[Matthew Cherry]

It doesn't seem to matter much now - the rotation motor stopped working. I really hoping it's the fuse.....

 

[Diapositivo]

Sorry for the motor.
Here on APUG there are threads with alternative motors to be installed.
It's also possible IIRC that the motor should be dismounted and cleaned/revised.

Never shot Provia.

39.7 °C seems too warm and could be the cause of the green cast.

I set at 38.3 and let all the system reach the same temperature by leaving it on for more than half an hour, even an hour with heating on and pump on. That way the entire mass (water, Jobo, beaker, flasks, tank) will come close to 38.3.
Actually I turn the Jobo on with water this way, and then begin preparing the solutions, so that for the entire time I employ to prepare the bath the Jobo is warming up. And after I finished preparing the last bath, I wait for at least half an hour more before processing.

EDIT There is a safety reversible fuse that "trips" in case of overheating or some other problem. It can be rearmed manually. It is located on the left side of the Jobo, there should be a sticker with a writing "overheating protection" or such. By the way, the Jobo must not be operated without water.

 

[Shootar401]

I have the same kit and I develop both sheet and 120 E6. I've never had a color cast issue, but had one roll with blown highlights which I found out was due to the fact that I decided to spin the reels in the tank instead of using the inversion method.

My temps are always off a few degrees here and there, but so far no major issues that can't be corrected at the enlarger (of that thing on my desk)

 

[pukalo]

Congratulations on starting home E6! Easy and you will save yourself $$$ plus excellent quality. Dont know about the red cast, check the manual that came with the Tetenal kit, it has specific instructions for this with Fuji, Kodak, and Agfa films. As for the JOBO, hope it is just a fuse, but that is exactly why I dont want one. Big upfront cost, then the issues with maintenance. Really, you dont need it. A Paterson 5 reel hand tank is fine, inexpensive, and maybe even better results than JOBO. So if JOBO is broken, spend $50 on this and you will be set to do 5 35mm or 3 120 at a time.

 

[Carlosq68]

Don't use tap water, use destiled water...
Is the PH at 7?
Besides temperature and the right amount of chemical, the PH in the color dev is the main cause of color hue shift.
I also read once that rolls are better to be developed in pairs, not individually.
And last, are you using 3 step or 6 step?
Best luck
Carlos Q

 

[Photo Engineer]

Fuji and Kodak recommend different FD development times for their films. This may be the cause of your problem.

PE

 

[thuggins]

I just finished my first four rolls in Tetenal. Freestyle has the kits available. The film was Provia. These are from first roll.



Those were shot with a Clack with an 81C warming filter and an ND2. Those scans don't do the images justice; the transparencies are beautiful. I did this roll and the second one "by the book", agitating every 15 seconds.

These are from the fourth roll.



These were taken late in the evening when the sun was playing peekaboo with the clouds, with a Bessa having a Skopar lens. The third and fourth rolls I changed the agitation to 15 to start then 5 in 10 seconds every minute, mainly because every 15 seconds was a pain in the ass and water got everywhere constantly taking the tank in and out of the bath.

Here is the bath.



Keeping the temperature correct was no problem. All the rolls came out better than I could hope; at least as good as a pro lab (except for one where I stressed the film). The colors are right where I would expect for Provia (the warming filter does it a world of good). It is obvious that the agitation isn't overly critical and the time has a pretty generous leeway, considering the time to control the timer, empty and fill the tank, etc.

The kit is pretty nice. The only challenging chemical is the Blix, which looks like a mix of iodine and red wine. You don't want to spill it on anything.

Unfortunately, the instructions are horrible. They must have hired some Chinese guy to translate from German into English. The only mention of Kodak and Fuji film and color shifts is some arcane bit about adjusting the pH, so maybe issues with the mixing water could cause color problems.

But apart from the fact that the process is really, really wet, it's pretty easy to do.