- Joined
- Nov 28, 2012
- Messages
- 10
- Format
- Med. Format RF
Try to get a quotation from Mark Hansen. The guy is sometimes rude but he knows a lot about shutters. He worked on my Cord years ago and it works perfectly since then.
Hope it helps!
I'm kind of inclined to see if I can get a little bit of a refund and just keep it. This may be cosmic balance for the deal I got on my RB67 + 90mm + 180mm for $200 last year. All working beautifully.
Ensure the lens is capable of edge to edge sharp images. Focus calibration is not an issue. Miss-aligned lens elements or de-cementing elements is. Same with scratches and coating marks. If the unit is in top shape and simply the lubricants need replacement, keep it. Yes you could save $50-100 if you keep shopping and get lucky, but you could also pay $300 for a unit the works for 3 months and then fails because the CLA was done using the wrong lubricant. If the shutter, focus and rewind mechanisms are is as good shape as exterior, keep it. If you suspect the unit has lens or mechanical ware/damage return it.
I bought an Autocord in top shape for $200 and all was working. Still I changed the cover and payed for a CLA and a new focus-screen. I think I put about $500 in all, perhaps more if I add the filters and hood.
Sound advice. I have changed barely working shutters to well functioning shutters doing just that. But only on very cheap cameras - if I had paid over £100 for the camera concerned, I would not have been impressed by needing to.I strongly recommend that you repeatedly dry fire the shutter at all the affected speeds. I have found the repeatedly exercising the "sticking" shutter speeds can clear up some of the problems your are experiencing. I had a lens for my Speed Graphic that had that problem, I dry fired each of the slow speed approximately 100 times each to clear up the sticking. After about 50 shoots on several of the speeds, the shutter was sounding much better. I would do that before you consider sending it back or getting a CLA.
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