Hassi EL/M possible to shoot without motor?

[silke s]

I am thinking to pick up a Hasselblad 500 series and noticed that the EL/M's are cheaper, since I don’t want a motor drive due to weight and battery issues, would it be possible to use the body without the drive?
The other issue that bothers me is that the seller picked this model to shoot faster and more therefore generally do the EL/M's have a higher "mileage" than the regular 500 C's ?

Thanks for any advice.

 

[E76]

To my knowledge, it is not possible to use an EL/M without the motor drive, which is permanently attached to the camera.

 

[Fred De Van]

There would be no reason for a Hasselblad EL/M to fire without the motor. There would be no way to wind it or perform any other function.

"Mileage" should be of little or no concern that is what they are built for. Over a ten year period mine experienced literally many thousands of rolls of 120 and 70mm completely trouble free until its role was replaced by Rollei's (also motor driven).

Your sole concern could be the age of the batteries. They do not last forever.

If EL/M's are cheaper that is just another reflection of the collective insanity of our ebay driven lunatic filled reality.

I always found the weight an attribute. It is better balanced and easier to handhold than a 500c, less susceptible to shock and vibration.

 

[GeorgeDexter]

Research the battery situation. The EL/M used (I believe) proprietary rechargeable batteries. I don't think you can get the batteries anymore and they don't last forever, so that could be an issue. I do think that you can have them modified to take batteries that are available, but I'm not sure where you'd get that done. This is just something someone once told me, so I can't vouch for it's accuracy, but I thought it worth mentioning.

I hope this helps.

 

[epatsellis]

Of course, a 35mm film canister, a 9V battery clip and about 5 mins of work (along with a couple of scraps of copper) will resolve the battery problem permanently, not to mention being able to get a spare battery at any CVS. If you insist on using the original style batteries, NiMh batteries are available.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Contact Q.G.

Ask your question on:
http://www.hasselbladinfo.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=136

Steve

 

[Q.G.]

I'm not on Hasselbladinfo.com. But i am here.
But post your question on hasselbladinfo.com too!


My answer is the same as the one that has been given already: you can't.

The EL(...) is made to be wound by a motor underneath.
It would need to be rebuild, and turned into a C(...) to be able to wind it manually. Which would take so many different parts and time, that you really would do better buying the C(...) and use that.

EL(...)s are often used hard, yes. But many C(...)s are too. It all depends on who owned them before.
But EL(...)s are more likely to have been used by professionals. Amateur photographers bought more C(...)s than EL(...)s.
On the whole, EL(...)s give more problems than C(...)s.

I'm a bit more cautious than some, and would suggest that mileage does indeed matter. Hasselblads are mechanical thingies too, and not exempt from wear.
The motor in EL(...)s can be hard on the mechanism, especially when it gets a bit out of adjustment. The motor doesn't care when things go a bit difficult, and just uses brute force to make the gears turn anyway. So wear can be harder, failure more 'catastrophic' in EL(...)s.

Having said all that, an EL(...) in good condition is not something to shy away from. Quite the contrary.

But taking both the fact that you do not want the extra weight (i agree with Fred, and find the weight a plus when handholding - but you must put a camera on a tripod whenever possible anyway, so not a big plus), and the bigger chance that something is (or will go) wrong in EL(...)s, i'd say you would better buy a C(...).

 

[Fred De Van]

EL(...)s are often used hard, yes. But many C(...)s are too. It all depends on who owned them before.
But EL(...)s are more likely to have been used by professionals. Amateur photographers bought more C(...)s than EL(...)s.
On the whole, EL(...)s give more problems than C(...)s.

I doubt very much that any EL has been through the strain, impact, and abrupt fierce winding that I and almost anybody else put a 500c through when faced with an frisky model or exciting fast moving situation (or any/all of the above) especially one driving the load of a 70mm back. If anything, the motor, by nature, is a way to treat the mechanical bits and peices gently, and consistently. I would trust a well used EL over a similarly used 500c any day.

The one minor problem with the EL is that some Polaroid and third party backs will not clear the motor, and are not usable.

 

[Q.G.]

You would think so. And yes, using a wind crank can be pretty violent.

But while you notice, feel when something is not going right, the motor just plods on. Consistently, yes.
And while your hand comes to a sudden stop when something blocks, the motor keeps on going. Consistently.

And it has some power... It can jam gears, break cogs, kick backs off the camera. It will not stop until it, or something else breaks. (Don't ask me how i know... )

I also think a motor is not gentle in the way it starts and stops either. Less gradual than your enthusiastic wind arm/hand.

Anyway, the EL(...)s too are build to last, and at the current prices are a good buy.
But get a good one...


P.S.

All Hasselblad backs work on EL(...)s. Hasselblad Polaroid backs are in good supply, and cheap. So no need to get another one.
The only other third party backs are digital... (of which most - if not all - will indeed fit).
What backs did you have in mind?