Hasselblad questions

[jeffreyg]

Steve is exactly correct with his instructions --- follow them. You should be able to buy an unjamming tool from B&H, Adorama or Calumet. Don't leave home without one.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

 

[brucemuir]

Steve is exactly correct with his instructions --- follow them. You should be able to buy an unjamming tool from B&H, Adorama or Calumet. Don't leave home without one.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

I always just remember:
when mounting:go from the camera body out
when unmounting: go from the lens in

I automatically wind immediately after a shot but I did manage to jam my 500 c/m one time when I was green.

I hit the body shutter release while unmounting a lens but I easily fixed it in the field with a screwdriver.

Once you are familiar with the system it really doesn't happen.

 

[JessicaDittmer]

The Hasselblad Manual is a good book to own as well. I've found a lot of great info in that and it covers many lenses and bodies and accessories and explains more about each one. It's really a wonderful book to own as a hassy shooter.

 

[brucemuir]

The Hasselblad Manual is a good book to own as well. I've found a lot of great info in that and it covers many lenses and bodies and accessories and explains more about each one. It's really a wonderful book to own as a hassy shooter.

Yes, if using 500 series go for an older edition.
The latest edition from around the 6th on include a lot of the H digi system at the expense of V system info.

 

[JessicaDittmer]

Mine is the 4th edition.

 

[brucemuir]

Mine is the 4th edition.

Yea, I bought a 6th edition before knowing better.


It's still a valuable reference though.

 

[chrismasonstearns]

You should be able to buy an unjamming tool from B&H, Adorama or Calumet. Don't leave home without one.

I use the dime if I need to cock the lens, and I have a thin, long-handled flathead screwdriver that I use if I need to re-cock the body. (It came in a set of different sizes, like a jewellers kit, but bigger.) Much cheaper than the official tool, and works just as well.

 

[Leigh B]

How do the C lenses couple the aperture and shutter speed? What is different about the CF?

Back in the 1950's, the Exposure Value (EV) system of exposure control was popular in Europe, being used on exposure meters and shutters. The idea was that the meter showed a single number (the EV number) that would give the correct exposure based on light intensity and film speed. You set the shutter speed and f/stop combination for that EV and locked them together.

Then you could change either parameter and the other would change automatically to keep the same exposure.

The C lenses (and all Compur shutters of that era regardless of camera) had the shutter speed dial and the aperture control dial interlocked by default. You had to press a small lever to release that interlock and change the settings independently.

The Prontor shutter in the CF and later lenses still supports this feature, but the two adjustments are not interlocked by default. You must press the lever to lock them, and they only stay locked while the lever is pressed.

I dislike the EV system, and that feature on the C lenses. Some people are quite fond of it. Personal preference.

- Leigh

 

[derwent]

I absolutely LOVE the EV system and I use it on all of my cameras that have it! That's basically all of my old German cameras and one or two others.
One of my friends with a Hassy and various German beauties absolutely hates it...
To each their own I suppose, but give it a good go before you give up on it!

 

[jeffreyg]

The reasons for the unjamming key are that they are the correct sizes, the ends (blade) are shielded and won't damage the camera equipment or where ever you keep it or be mistaken for some sort of a weapon by the TSA. Mine had cost approx. $25 and they last a lifetime.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

 

[vpwphoto]

After reading this it's a no wonder people who don't use the Blad deride them!
My 18 year old 80mm and 500 went to the shop yesterday, the PC sync went away on the 80... thought the body might as well be looked at too.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Yes, if using 500 series go for an older edition.
The latest edition from around the 6th on include a lot of the H digi system at the expense of V system info.

I have the fifth edition which is as late as one should go if they are using the V Series Hasselblads.

 

[PeteZ8]

Thank you for all the wonderful replies. Lots of great info here!

I'm quickly finding that close focus is not a positive attribute of the V system, not even "kind of close" focus. Any suggestions on what extension tube for an 80mm? I'm not looking for macro distances but a foot or so closer would be nice. Should I be looking for an 8mm or will the 16mm be better? I'd prefer not to have any "gaps" if you know what I mean.

So far it looks like the 16 might be the way to go but I'll ask the experts here

 

[Leigh B]

Hi Pete,

In order to achieve a full-size image (1:1), the lens must move forward from its infinity focus by a distance equal to its focal length. This is true for any lens on any camera. When the lens has a focusing mount, as all Hasselblad lenses have, you can use that to fine-tune your focus.

Hasselblad makes a nice slide-rule closeup calculator that gives required extension and exposure correction for any desired ratio. Note that increased exposure is required for any significant lens extension.

The best option for "gap-free" closeup work is a bellows. There are a couple of types available, one with a single cable release (modern and more expensive), and one with a dual cable release (older, less expensive). I have the dual-release style, and it works fine.

- Leigh

 

[brucemuir]

I always avoided the 16 because it's always recommended for tight headshots with the 150mm so the price is usually inflated.

I have the 8,11, and 21 or whatever they are...haha
I have so many systems I can't remember the exact specifics for all my tubes.
I have all older non "E" (electrical contacts), they are wayyy cheaper and I don't own a blad body that talks to lenses so the contacts are moot.

For an 80 I'd go a little shorter than 16 but if you go to Hasselblad Historical web page I think it tells the focus distances with various tubes.

 

[PeteZ8]

Thanks for the replies. I'm not looking for macro type work, I just want to get in a little closer for normal subjects. Even a headshot is impossible with the 80mm without some extension; closest focus seems to be about 3 feet. I'd be plenty happy with two. Will the 11mm leave me with a gap between closest focus with just the lens and maximum focus on lens + extension? Like if the 80mm goes from 3-infinity, I'm looking for something that goes 2-3 (prefer 2-3 1/2 or so), but not from 3-infinity to 1-2 with an extension, leaving 2-3 unusable, if that makes sense.

I'll look around that site and try to find that calculator.

 

[brucemuir]

You don't want to shoot a headshot with an 80 anyway.

It is a pain to figure the overlap with the earlier tubes.
I think this is the reason the later tubes are slightly different lengths than the older style.
They give better continuous focus ability.

 

[TareqPhoto]

I have 2 lenses for my hassy 501cm, 60mm and 150mm, i have one issue with both, the issue is that i bought LEE adapter ring B60 to use on both [or say on 60 for wide outdoors] and the adapter never stay on it, i feel it is not the right fit or the adapter is not designed fine or whatever reason, i have another adapter but it is step [up or down] ring and it fit perfectly, so i really don't know how to solve this issues.

Second thing, i borrowed a lens 80mm C from my friend [and i gave him my 150CF], me and him are hating that 8mm C lens, either it is bad series of lenses or that lens has an issue, but he can't try to send it back for replacement, i don't know how to explain the issue with the lens, but anyway it seems i will stay with CF/CFE version anytime i can.