Hasselblad: light leak or processing?

[Margaret M]

I've attached an image to this message.

I recently purchased a Hasselblad 500C with a C12 back and the first thing I did was I replaced the light traps in the film back. I've shot 7 rolls of B&W film and 5 rolls had light leaks on the edge of the negatives. Every roll I've finished shooting seemed to be wound tight.

So thinking it might be the film back, I purchased another C12 film back with matching serial numbers and tested another roll...same thing...light leaks on the edges...not as severe as the 1st back, but I've only shot 1 roll so I can't judge it yet.

I've tried 2 different labs and different expiration date films.

It's just driving me nuts that I can't figure out what it might be. :confused: Is it the camera, film back, processing or film?

Any help would be appreciated! Thanks...

 

[Anscojohn]

More than one situation, perhaps. The two middle frames on the far left look like leaks from a loose roll in loading or unloading; the others, more probably from light leaks in the mags. If the leaks stop at the frame edge, is this a big problem??

 

[Dave in Kansas]

To help eliminate the possibility that it might be caused by the film not being wound tight, unload the camera in a changing bag or darkroom and keep the roll dark until it's in the developing tank.

Other than that, how do you like the camera? I just happened to be looking at a 500C today.

 

[bill schwab]

These all look like loose film roll leaks to me. It is my experience that leaks from the back will bleed into the frame and be more consistent. Try what Dave says and see what happens.

Good luck!

 

[Q.G.]

I too do not see light leaks. Only edge fogging (sloppy handling).

Light leaks caused by shod seals do indeed not affect the border outside of the frame. Only the bit inside the frame.

Roll film should be handled in subdued light/shade. There is room between the flanges of the spool and the paper, and when you handle the film in sunlight, or are not carefull to keep the film wound tight, you are bound to get this edge fogging.
So make sure you are careful when handling film. If the things then reappear anyway, try yet another lab.

 

[Margaret M]

Thank you all for the replies. Yes, all the fogging are seen on the edges of the film and never in the frame...and mostly towards the end of the roll. However, there are some fogging from the edge that bleeds into the frame and that's not good.

I'll make sure that after I shoot a roll, I'll use a black bag to store it before I hand it off to the lab. But how do I know if the lab handles it with care? I'm definitely not happy with the 2 labs I've tried so far. My negs came out with scratches, chemical dried gunk, purple tint, kinks, spots...

I will try what's suggested and also more:
- load/unload film in shade/dark
- keep shot film in dark bag before it goes to lab
- use different lab
- use different type of film, Kodak instead of Ilford

Thanks all! Otherwise, I love shooting with the Hasselblad, I'm having so much fun with it!

 

[aluncrockford]

I am not too sure using different film stock will make any difference , and loading and unloading in the dark is really not needed ,the key to this I suspect is a combination of the Lab and, when you unload the film try to keep it wound tight when you attach the sticky tape ,allowing the film to slacken is I suspect is where the fogging has happened

 

[John Koehrer]

You may be able to eliminate the backs as a cause by removing the darkslide & taping over the slot with electrical tape & shooting a roll. If it's a light leak it's probably from the DS slot.

 

[Charles Webb]

Your problem is the way you handle the exposed roll when removing it from the camera. The reason that the fogging only occurs near the end of the roll is becaus the last few wraps of paper are not tight. Unload in subdued light and make certain that the roll does not slightly loosen or unroll while removing the transport device from the magazine. Cinch the paper on the roll when you tape it. A helpful little thing is when you have exposed the 12th frame wind the exposed film completely onto to the take up (film spool). Looking at your contacts it appears that
your shuttler speeds may be a bit slow and are creating negatives with more density than you really want.

Charlie..........................................

 

[Q.G.]

Looking at your contacts it appears that
your shuttler speeds may be a bit slow and are creating negatives with more density than you really want.

Though the first thing that strikes the eye is that these 'contacts' are negative ...

 

[Margaret M]

After the 12th frame, I always wind the film completely into the takeup spool. I've heard that before taping the roll up, you should fold the white part of the tab (from the end of the backing paper) inwards and then tape it. Is that necessary? Thanks!

 

[Q.G.]

Folding the tab creates a straight edge instead of a 'tapered' one, and makes it easier to break the seal later.
That's all there is to it.

 

[Margaret M]

Hi everyone, I finally was able to test 2 rolls of 120 while I was in Hawaii. I loaded/unloaded film in shade and after each roll is done, I wrapped it in black construction paper and handed it off to the lab back in L.A.

Finally, the negatives came out clean! So in conclusion, it was the operator's fault (in other words, me). Yay, it's not my Hassy. I'll make sure to be careful with these 120 film while loading/unloading. I went to another lab, which I'm very pleased with, if anyone is in L.A. definitely go to The Icon on Wilshire.

Thanks for all the help and troubleshooting!!

 

[Sirius Glass]

So in conclusion, it was the operator's fault (in other words, me).

[Names deleted to protect the guilty.]

That is what is called an O. A. F. => an Operator Assisted Failure. The proper usage ... "the OAF did this" or "the OAF did that".

Do not take this personally, we enjoyed working on the problem! Even those of us who did not add to the thread.

Steve