Hasselblad Extension tubes (portrait/80mm)

Quinten · Jun 30, 2005

Hi Lads&Ladies, I want to get a bit closer to my model at times but my 80mm lens can't focus for a head shot since it won't go closer than than a meter.

Now can I just screw any extension tube from Hasselblad on the camera or should I go for a certain lenght? I can't find much info on this.

And how bad is the balloon effect with and 80mm lens for portraits I hear people speak about?

Thanks!
Q

bobfowler · Jun 30, 2005

When shooting people, I wouldn't opt for an extension tube on a normal lens, rather I'd go for a longer focal length. If that isn't an option (or if you REALLY want big noses and big ears), a short extension tube would do the trick, though a +1 aux close up lens would be cheaper.

Quinten · Jul 1, 2005

Thanks for the tip, I am not sure what a +1 aux close up lens would be. Certainly not in case it's cheapre than an extention tube...

Have a fine weekend!

Ole · Jul 1, 2005

A +1 close-up lens is a "filter" of clear glass with a focal length of 1 meter. So if your camera is focussed at infinity, the combined lens/CU+1 system is focussed at 1 meter. There are cheap ones, and anastigmatic (?) ones.

Extension tubes move the whole lens away from the film, same as happens when you turn the focus ring to focus closer. A good choise is one which starts about where the lens stops - which of course depends on the focal length of the lens. There are tables to be found, or you can try to calculate it yourself from the basic "thin lens" equations.

Frank F · Jul 1, 2005

The close up lenses are called PROXARs. They come in 3 strengths.. +0.5, +1, and +2. The diameter is set in mm, and generally, if your lens is chrome or uses a Compur shutter ( C lens) , you want a B50, and if the lens is black AND HAS A PRONTOR Shutter ( CF Lens), you would want a B60. If you lens has NO shutter ( F lens), then you want a B70. They were and are made by Zeiss ( for Rollei) or Hasselblad. Either make will fit your lens.

Extension tubes are more money....they come in lengths of 8, 10, 16, 21, 32, and 55mm. At least from memory that is correct. The 10 and 21 and 55 are older and less costly ( no reason, ths is is just the way it is.)

There is a lot of overlap between ranges ( with close up thingie or wothout) using either setup. If you know what distance you wish to shoot, email me and I will look up your combo of lens plus distance and tell you which item specifically to get.

brent8927 · Jul 2, 2005

I used the extension tubes; they'll usually give you a better quality image when compared to proxars, especially along the edges of the image. However, proxars are much faster. I've never done close ups of people, though I have done close ups of statues of people (which are a bit different!) and I thought my 80mm lens alone was good enough, but if I needed to get closer then a 21mm extension tube worked great for me. Personally, if you want to do a lot of close-up shots of models, I'd take Bob's advice and get another lens, partly because using a longer focal-length lens is more optimal than using a lens with tubes or proxars (though not more economically optimal!) but also most people usually wont be too comfortable with a camera right up in their face, which is what you'll get when using any extension tubes. A longer focal length lens will allow you to work further away from your subject, and I think most people will appreciate that.

waynecrider · Jul 2, 2005

Why not just crop the image?

bobfowler · Jul 2, 2005

waynecrider said:
Why not just crop the image?

Because that kinda defeats the purpose of using a larger format film.

waynecrider · Jul 3, 2005

bobfowler said:
Because that kinda defeats the purpose of using a larger format film.

Think about it; He can't get closer then a "meter" (39 inches) on 6x6 with an 80mm lens for a head shot. My question is, what kind of head shot does he want to produce, what enlargement size is he going for and how much is he going to loose cropping? I just checked with my Rollei and he should have no problem cropping to 11x14, and maybe larger. A tube will just get him limited DOF and distortion, which he may want, and the reason for his post. Otherwise we all know, a 150 or greater for perspective.

Quinten · Jul 4, 2005

Seems the tubes are still the best solution for my budget, an extra job for a 150mm lens is on its way as well

Cropping gives me the shivers to be honest, I can still take those pictures with a nikon FE I do have with a 105 mm, but I just like the MF a lot.

Thanks for all the tips, I've never heard about those strange lens filters so again I've learned something new over here!

NikoSperi · Jul 4, 2005

I know what you feel as I just went through the same issues in trying to get close head and shoulder shots. FWIW, even the 150 Sonnar does not focus close enough for tight shots. I had come to rack it all the way to closest focus, and then rock on my heels back and forth to focus.

I have yet to try it as it just arrived today, but I received the 16mm ring, and it looks just the thing for the 150. On the 80 however, you will be really "in your model's face" as furthest focus places the lens about 50cm away!

To hijack the thread, does anyone have a suggested exposure compensation for the 16mm ring?

bobfowler · Jul 4, 2005

NikoSperi said:
I know what you feel as I just went through the same issues in trying to get close head and shoulder shots. FWIW, even the 150 Sonnar does not focus close enough for tight shots. I had come to rack it all the way to closest focus, and then rock on my heels back and forth to focus.

I have yet to try it as it just arrived today, but I received the 16mm ring, and it looks just the thing for the 150. On the 80 however, you will be really "in your model's face" as furthest focus places the lens about 50cm away!

To hijack the thread, does anyone have a suggested exposure compensation for the 16mm ring?

I use the 18mm tube with my Bronica 150 on a regular basis. Exp compensation with the tube and everything racked out is about a half stop.

Frank F · Jul 4, 2005

Exposure compensation is not tube length dependent, it is the TOTAL distance form focal plane to nodal point and dependent on focal length of the lens. In more clear terms, use a TTL meter, the problem goes away.

I can look up the compensation and the image area size for given Proxars or extension rings if someone will post what they want.

NikoSperi · Jul 5, 2005

Frank F said:
Exposure compensation is not tube length dependent, it is the TOTAL distance form focal plane to nodal point and dependent on focal length of the lens. In more clear terms, use a TTL meter, the problem goes away.

I can look up the compensation and the image area size for given Proxars or extension rings if someone will post what they want.

Yes. But the change in that distance with the addition of a tube is a given. In my case, I have added 16mm. Actually, that just answered my own question... just as with the bellows extension. So, with the 150mm at infinity - exposure factor is (150+16)^2/150^2 or 1.224 or about half a stop. Correct?

So it follows that on a shorter lens, the exposure factor increases. Thx Frank for getting the neurons firing again, rather than asking more silly questions in forums! :rolleyes:

Hasselblad Extension tubes (portrait/80mm)

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