Hasselblad Acute-Matte D...Alternatives?

[ReginaldSMith]

Regarding the 500C/M:

There is the Acute-Matte D - for around $300.00 and up, and Up, and UP!. At the risk of committing a Doctrinal Sin, is anyone using an alternative with success? Something maybe for $50 bucks?

I am normally the guy who will only use Genuine FoMoCo parts on my car - so I do know the risks of straying, but I like to know what my economic choices and trade-offs might entail.

Sincerely,
New Hasselblad Owner
(Feel free to mock me for the heretical question.)

 

[BrianShaw]

Do yourself a favor... use the screen in your camera for a while and worry about replacing it only if you really have a problem. My opinion: folks worry unnecessary about “screen brightness” sometimes.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Did you check the prices at Dead Link Removed

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[bdial]

The micro-prism and split image screens work pretty well, and are a big improvement over the standard screen (IMO), without the investment that the acute-mattes require.

 

[itsdoable]

What screen do you have in the 500c/m now?

I'm using a Britescreen version (discontinued & picked up used). It's not a good as an Acute Matte-D, but still pretty good, less expensive, but not $50. I like it better than the standard Acute Matte.

The Acute Matte-D's (and the Maxwells) are probably the best.

The $50 screen (Chinese and Russian) are brighter than the old Hasselblad screens, but I did not find them better. They had a courser grain and/or annoying Fresnel pattern. But very usable. The original Hasselblad screens are quite usable as well, just not as bright - good in outdoor daytime conditions and with model lights.

 

[mshchem]

Regarding the 500C/M:

There is the Acute-Matte D - for around $300.00 and up, and Up, and UP!. At the risk of committing a Doctrinal Sin, is anyone using an alternative with success? Something maybe for $50 bucks?

I am normally the guy who will only use Genuine FoMoCo parts on my car - so I do know the risks of straying, but I like to know what my economic choices and trade-offs might entail.

Sincerely,
New Hasselblad Owner
(Feel free to mock me for the heretical question.)

I try what you have. The straight standard acute matte d in my 501cm, required me to use the magnifier with the waist level, it works fabulous with a 45 degree prism. It took me a while to get used to no spilt image (of course for a lot of money you can buy a Acute-Matte with microprism ,split image the works)

 

[Luis-F-S]

Do yourself a favor... use the screen in your camera for a while and worry about replacing it only if you really have a problem. My opinion: folks worry unnecessary about “screen brightness” sometimes.

++1!!

 

[flavio81]

There is the Acute-Matte D - for around $300.00 and up, and Up, and UP!. At the risk of committing a Doctrinal Sin, is anyone using an alternative with success? Something maybe for $50 bucks?

I am normally the guy who will only use Genuine FoMoCo parts on my car - so I do know the risks of straying, but I like to know what my economic choices and trade-offs might entail.

Sincerely,
New Hasselblad Owner
(Feel free to mock me for the heretical question.)

Hi,

Many of such "bright, alternative" screens have much less focusing precision. Avoid. A void.

I had a Pentax P67 with such an aftermarket screen. Nailing accurate focus was almost impossible. 6x6 or 6x7 format requires accurate focusing.

On the 35mm world, i have a Pentax P30 which comes an ultra bright screen and my trusty Spotmatic cameras with less bright screens. The focus precision of the P30 screens isn't good enough. While on the spotmatics you can exactly see where are you focusing.

So please, don't do that to your swedish brick.

 

[film_man]

Which screen do you have? If it is the very old and dark one then look for an Acute-Matte (nonD), this should be much better than the old one, not that much worse than a D and probably half the price. Other options are BrightScreen ones. Also so Bill Maxwell makes custom screens but these are very expensive as well ($300-400). It may be worth contacting him as he can treat existing screens as well (for less) to make them brighter yet still showing focus transition very sharply.

 

[ReginaldSMith]

Update:
The camera arrived and has a standard original screen with no focus aids. Looking through the waist finder I would be guessing to be able to focus this. It's dim.

This brings to mind another question: Do most people here use the waist finder or PM5 type finder?

 

[BrianShaw]

Update:
The camera arrived and has a standard original screen with no focus aids. Looking through the waist finder I would be guessing to be able to focus this. It's dim.

This brings to mind another question: Do most people here use the waist finder or PM5 type finder?

I use both. For landscape and other general photography I prefer waist level. Most often using the magnifier. But for lower light I use a prism.

Recently I got a deal on a sportfinder that I’m hoping expands my horizons into other ways to frame images.

 

[ReginaldSMith]

I've always liked the view of the scene from waist level finders. I like the non-intimidating appearance to people in the area, versus "pointing a big lens at them." However, it's the focusing I could never master on my Rollieflex or Yashicas. (I had a whole 'nother thread about this focusing problem.) This Hassy seems pretty light to me, so holding up to a prism finder seems quite doable, if Iget the right screen,magifier etc.

 

[itsdoable]

Although the original Hasselblad screens are not as bright, and have that annoying Fresnel pattern, they are very good at showing sharp focus, many say better than the more current brighter screens. I find them very function in bright outdoors light. I would give them a try first.

As for Waist level or PM5, I tent to use the waist level most of the time, it keeps the kit light and small. But when shooting a little more rapidly (ie: weddings) the PM5 type are nicer.

 

[BrianShaw]

I've always liked the view of the scene from waist level finders. I like the non-intimidating appearance to people in the area, versus "pointing a big lens at them." However, it's the focusing I could never master on my Rollieflex or Yashicas. (I had a whole 'nother thread about this focusing problem.) This Hassy seems pretty light to me, so holding up to a prism finder seems quite doable, if Iget the right screen,magifier etc.

I tend to focus at my eye and most often frame from the waist. Same as when I was shooting Rolleicord TLR.

 

[GLS]

This brings to mind another question: Do most people here use the waist finder or PM5 type finder?

I use a PM45. It provides decent magnification without cutting off any of the focusing screen. I never particularly liked using the WLF.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Look at Dead Link Removed for a used Acute Matte D screen. If you are not happy they will refund or exchange.

 

[MattKing]

Look at Dead Link Removed for a used Acute Matte D screen. If you are not happy they will refund or exchange.

Is that where you look for screens designed to be put in backwards?

 

[ReginaldSMith]

KEH had one for about $400+++ Still looking.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Look at Dead Link Removed for a used Acute Matte D screen. If you are not happy they will refund or exchange.

Is that where you look for screens designed to be put in backwards?

Avoid making an OAF and read the manual.


.

 

[MattKing]

Avoid making an OAF and read the manual.


.

Check the web address that you quoted

 

[Sirius Glass]

 

[ReginaldSMith]

Update:
Finally received the PM5, and purchased a split screen focus screen branded "BOR" for $30. I just couldn't shell out the dough for the 42215. The new screen is far brighter, and I can focus it pretty well in most conditions. The split screen is at 45 degrees. I haven't exposed any film yet, but probably this weekend.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Update:
Finally received the PM5, and purchased a split screen focus screen branded "BOR" for $30. I just couldn't shell out the dough for the 42215. The new screen is far brighter, and I can focus it pretty well in most conditions. The split screen is at 45 degrees. I haven't exposed any film yet, but probably this weekend.

When you have used it, please update the update.

 

[halfaman]

I read somewhere about using Mamiya RZ67 screens, of course they must be trim to fit but the quality was said to be on par with acutte-matte.

 

[itsdoable]

Just a word of caution using after-market screens.

I recently noticed that my BrightScreen front-focuses a bit since I've been using a 110mm F2. In retrospect, I can see evidence of that with my 80mm at F2.8. With my Acute Matte screen, the focus is good. I tested my after-market Chinese screens as well, and some are off a bit, some not. The Hasselblad screens are all spot on. Did not test Maxwell or Beattie screens as I don't have any, but the BrightScreens were in the same category of professional replacement screens in their time.

I've switched to 42170 screen, which actually works fine.