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Hasselblad 80mm f/2.8 C T* CLA - Shutter Cocking Gear Meshing

Howie1922

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Hey Everyone!

I am CLAing a Hasselblad 80mm f/2.8 C T* for the first time and lost the timing on the cocking gears. Does anyone have any advice on how to find the correct timing for these gears? Also, does anyone have the repair manual for the Hasselblad 80mm f/2.8 C T*? I have the one for the CB, CFE, CFi lenses but they don't translate 1:1. Any information is appreciated! See below for the positioning of the gears.


https://mail.google.com/mail/u/0?ui...293&th=19cef0b9fe3fdb3d&view=att&zw&disp=safe
 
I don't remember exactly. The lower gear has a reference dot and it's usual to mark the position. But you should be able to find it by trial and error. First synchronize the cocking ring with the main cocking gear (on the main spring); they should mesh at their first teeth. Then cock/release with the key until it works?
 
It's been awhile since I've done this, but IIRC, I needed to re-orient the smaller gear so that the reference mark pointed towards the larger gear. And that involved correctly meshing something on the other end of the small gear's shaft. Recall being annoyed at having to disassemble that part of the lens again, but don't recall it being tricky otherwise, nothing under crazy tension requiring a third hand, or fingers of steel.

Fun having to learn these little tips without the aid of a mentor peering over your shoulder, isn't it!
 

I did notice the timing dot on the small gear. I put that dot between the teeth of the larger gear and I think that ended up getting the winding mechanism to work again. The shutter still would not fire correctly, so I am cleaning the shutter blades and shutter blade ring next to see if that helps.
 

Yeah that sounds like it could get annoying meshing everything on the front and back of the shutter. I'll keep you updated when I get to reassembly. I do wish I had a mentor to walk me through some of these repairs sometimes, I feel like I would waste less time guessing. But, it's still fun to learn new things, even by trial and error!
 

Have fun: I seem to recall that the stuff on the other end of the gear shaft was easy to figure out, because if done right, the winding cam clicks into place in line with the red index dot.
 
Not sure what setup is shown in the photo, but the meshing between the cocking rack (center circle with two sets of gear teeth) and the actual main spring cocking is off. The round gear should be pushed counterclockwise and set snug against tab. Then gear should mesh last gear on cocking rack to last gear (most counterclockwise end) on circular gear. This is just basic Synchro Compur setup. It may be different inside a Hassellbald lens. But in other cases, if these are set right you either won't get proper cocking or proper release.

Just spitting this out there. You may have set these up different than the photo.
 
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The C series gear timing is its own world compared to the later CF and CFi -- the cocking sequence is similar in principle but the gear tooth positions and the relationship between the shutter and aperture blades don't map cleanly across. The key reference point most people use is getting the shutter in the fired position first, then aligning the cocking gears from there rather than trying to work backwards from the cocked state. If the blades are closing cleanly but the cocking stroke feels off or incomplete, the gear mesh is usually one tooth out in either direction, small adjustment, big difference.
 
Hi Everyone, I removed the shutter blade ring to clean it and found a teflon ring where the shutter blade ring sits. To me it looks like it's cracked.



I have a couple of questions related to this if anyone has insight:

1. Is this actually cracked? Or is is supposed to have a slit like this?
2. Any ideas on a replacement if it is cracked?
3. Will the crack affect the shutter speeds if I do not replace it?
4. Should I lubricate the ID of the shutter ring with graphite powder, or will the teflon ring provide sufficient lubrication?

Let me know if you have any insight. Thanks!
 
In my limited experience*, this ring is always split like that. By the size of the split, it's unlikely that the unsplit ID would fit over the piece, no?

Generally speaking, Nylon doesn't require lubrication.

*I serviced one Compur that had the same split ring; it runs just fine.
 
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Hi Everyone!

Following up on this thread. I purchased the nylon ring from Camera Revival, and it is not split.



The new one is on the left, and the old one is on the right. To install it I just pushed it onto the post it fits around. I did not cut it. It was tight.


I’m guessing if there is a split in it, the part is Cracked and needs to be replaced.

I asked Alexander at camera revival if this was a necessary replacement, and this was his response:

“They crack from age and need to be replaced. Nylon will become brittle with age and will crack and break down. If not replaced, you risk damaging the shutter because of extra play and also because the pulverized nylon pieces will get into the mechanism. Replacement parts for shutters are not cheap. We have them if needed.

No lubrication is needed on the replacement ring.

The ring is a tight fit and you need to slip it onto the brass holder. These rings work on all Compur shutters for Hasselblad and Rolleiflex cameras which require them.”

Hoping this info is helpful to others. The shipping to the US was not cheap, so if anyone in the US can remake this part I’d be interested in stocking up on a few.
 
You should have bought a 1000 while you were ordering, Howie. On eBay (and elsewhere) you'd probably earn your investment back ten-fold, even if marked-up prices over "retail".
 
BrianShaw said:
You should have bought a 1000 while you were ordering, Howie. On eBay (and elsewhere) you'd probably earn your investment back ten-fold, even if marked-up prices over "retail".
Click to expand...

Being sure to use words like 'New Old Stock", "Rare", and "Custom Fit"
 

You can find Hassy lens service information here:

 
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