Hasselblad 500c/m description- problem??

So I saw a Hasselblad 500C/M body listed at a lower price. A touch under $500. The description says:

"Upper secondary baffle has slight droop to it when shutter is fired."

Is this a bad problem? Cosmetic only? Well, anyone want to chime in, much appreciated.

(Rest of description is basic cosmetic shows wear, everything functions fine.)

I do not know what a "droop" means. but I already know enough to stay away. What has happened is the body has suffered a jam and the barn door has moved on its axle. This is a typical situation in a body long overdue of service. There will be more jams. That, you can count on. And $500 is no deal anyway.
Edit: figured out what droop means. The barn door has moved on its axle due to a previous jam. It's no coming all the way up any more. Typical of an old unserviced body. I can already also tell you that the foam pad between the back of the mirror and its metal frame have deteriorated and the focus is now quite inaccurate.

It's a significant problem if it's drooping into the image area, which seems likely.

Pretty much as @F4U says, but in the case of my camera, I could not simply rotate the door on it's axle, because it had developed cracks, and someone had cemented in into place, so I ended up replacing both doors, and at that point, might as perform a full overhaul on the camera.

Stay away.

It's not something that can't be fixed. Any body you buy may have numerous issues that require attention.


Body removed from shell, hold that pivot with pliers to prevent it from turning, and bend the top shutter inward until it doesn't "droop" anymore (apply pressure close to the pivot point). I just did this with a Hasselblad EL/M.

Bending stuff is the genuine Hasselblad way of fixing things.

But I think $500 is a bit much for that. There are likely other issues.

Thanks, everyone. I wasn't sure if this was a 'cosmetic' issue, like a lever that needs a nudge to release. Or a symptom of a mechanical problem. I'm not up to risk a problem child camera at this time so I will pass.

The baffle can be pushed back into the correct position as described above, by holding the shaft.

Migration of the upper baffle is a symptom of the mirror brake. As the mirror brake becomes less effective, the shock from the mirror's end travel causes the baffle to shift on it's shaft. The mirror brake consists of a large rubber disk, which both wears and hardens over time (and it's been a long time!), making it less effective. I don't know of a good supply of replacements as NOS stock is rare, and hardened by age.

I've bent a few back into place, but over time, they will shift again. Not a big deal. The other issue is the mirror shock - but I've not noticed anything significant to the resulting image captures, and I still take a lot of pictures without the mirror pre-release. Keep in mind the mirror foam also plays a significant role in mirror shock.

itsdoable said:

The baffle can be pushed back into the correct position as described above, by holding the shaft.

Migration of the upper baffle is a symptom of the mirror brake. As the mirror brake becomes less effective, the shock from the mirror's end travel causes the baffle to shift on it's shaft. The mirror brake consists of a large rubber disk, which both wears and hardens over time (and it's been a long time!), making it less effective. I don't know of a good supply of replacements as NOS stock is rare, and hardened by age.

I've bent a few back into place, but over time, they will shift again. Not a big deal. The other issue is the mirror shock - but I've not noticed anything significant to the resulting image captures, and I still take a lot of pictures without the mirror pre-release. Keep in mind the mirror foam also plays a significant role in mirror shock.

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Thanks for the info. All in all makes me want to stay away from Hasselblad! I just want to try the 60mm Distagon, and if I like it get a solid body to use it on. I am not up for learning all the ins and outs of a new system!

Forgive me for butting in, Dan, but you might be drawing the wrong conclusion. There’s good reason to stay away from Hasselblads with potential problems but no reason to hesitate about one in good condition. It’s the older, well-worn, and bargain-grade to avoid. They are a joy to use and can produce some fantastic images.

Yep, a Hasselblad can be fixed. None of that microchip stuff

Yes, I know that Hasselblad V cameras do great things and are a pleasure to use most of the time. Not to set of a firestorm, but the real reasons I have stayed away from Hassys are the noise on shutter release and the mirror blackout. Seriously. This is very idiosyncratically personal, I know, and I don't go around tell others to stay away because they are an aesthetic nightmare at shutter release for my taste. Lots of people with good taste using Hassys out there...

I want to try the Distagon 60mm. Pure and simple. Looking at how and what I shoot, I think it could be a very comfortable focal length. For me!! (Ok, please note the 'for me' this could be a nice lens, no need to argue about it.) I've shot a 50mm on a Hassy and it was too wide (for me, again!). I am simply not getting on with the Rollei Wide 55mm, for reasons I am not certain of. So to try a 60mm in 6x6, a Hassy body is needed.

I got a decent deal on a 553 ELM, back, finder, and 60mm Distagon. The 60mm might turn out to be a good focal length for me. So I was poking around at a possible body without the motor mass on the bottom. I saw the camera that I asked about, drooping upper rear shutter door, and here we are!

I fiddle, I dive into mechanical cameras to clean and maybe fix, etc. Already had to clean the back on this Hassy and lost the red/white flag mechanism! SLRs, 35mm or 120, are not cameras I like working on. Hassys combine SLRs and the potential to be excellent shooters. Out of respect for their level of craftsmanship and reducing number in the world, and my lack of proper tooling, it's best that I keep out of them. I can't begin to afford to collect a few Hassy cadavers if I tried to learn how to work on them.

I wasn't sure if the drooping shutter was cosmetic, would need work, and/or maybe indicative of deeper issues. Sounds like at least some internal work needed, and I don't want to learn how to work on Hassys.

BrianShaw said:

It’s the older, well-worn, and bargain-grade to avoid. They are a joy to use and can produce some fantastic images.

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Exactly, Brian. Looks like a maintained recent 500 series body will be the thing for me, at a cost of course. That is my plan, if I decide to integrate the 60mm into regular shooting and lighten the load by losing the motor.

"A maintained recent 500 series body" exists only a concept, lol. I had the bug almost 20 years ago and picked up a nice looking well maintained 500c, which I discovered has a slight focus issue, so I sent it to NJ and they promptly overhauled it to the tune of $800 with a list of repairs that was eye-opening. Twenty years later I have a 1950's 500C at factory specification, but the experience squashed my Hassy bug. Not even sure you can have these overhauled anymore.

Saganich said:

"A maintained recent 500 series body" exists only a concept, lol.

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Not certain if you mean any V series Hassy. When I say 500 series, I mean the 501, 503, etc. cameras also. It looks as if some of the more recent bodies will have a larger chance of better condition and less professional-level wear and tear. All in all your experience seems to be more common with Hassys than, say, Leicas.

Saganich said:

"A maintained recent 500 series body" exists only a concept, lol. I had the bug almost 20 years ago and picked up a nice looking well maintained 500c, which I discovered has a slight focus issue, so I sent it to NJ and they promptly overhauled it to the tune of $800 with a list of repairs that was eye-opening.... <snip>

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Well... $800 for the overhaul tells me it was not "well maintained"...

The 500c was last made in 1970 - I think you'll find similar issues with any brand that is 35~48 years old.