Hasselblad 500 CM question

[campy51]

Is there any reason why I couldn't swap a chrome shell over to a black camera? The black is a 1985 and the chrome is a 1984. The reason I ask is I prefer the looks of the chrome and the back body looks to have been used less.

 

[BrianShaw]

DELETED

Sorry, I misunderstood the question. Mea culpa.

 

[sissysphoto]

I wouldn't. You're looking to cause yourself problems. Not to mention adding more tinkered with cameras to the eventual resale pool. I've said over and over, Hasselblads are not a camera for do it yourselfers. There's just too much you don't know and wouldn't suspect that are actually extremely important. the op is not asking about backs. He is asking about switching body shells.

 

[campy51]

I wouldn't. You're looking to cause yourself problems. Not to mention adding more tinkered with cameras to the eventual resale pool. I've said over and over, Hasselblads are not a camera for do it yourselfers. There's just too much you don't know and wouldn't suspect that are actually extremely important. the op is not asking about backs. He is asking about switching body shells.

Here is a section from the manual. Notice the say bend to make adjustments. Doesn't sound like a finely tuned mechanism to me. As we say in the copier repair business "you bend you break, you form you fix".

Adjustment of the release mechanism
Check that the release bar (30375) is free from the
signal arm pawl. Adjust by carefully bending the
forward part of the signal arm. Use tool V-2200.
Minimum free play: 0.2 mm.
With the camera fully cocked the release bar should
protrude a maximum of 0.9 mm through the rear plate.
Adjust this by bending the release arm (13357) using
tool V-2224.
Fig. 35.
The mirror function should be checked and possibly
adjusted before proceeding to adjust the release
mechanism.
The mirror should be locked by the mirror catch lever
(13356-1). Movement can be increased or reduced by
adjusting the mirror actuating lever (13362).
Adjustment is carried out by holding the arm fixed
using tool V-2205 and gently bend the forward part of
the arm using tool V-2201. Bend downwards for
increased mirror movement.
Note! The inner side cover (22813) must be removed
before an adjustment can be made.
The mirror’s overtravel should be min. 1 mm. Lubricate
the mirror cam (22355) with grease.

 

[moto-uno]

^ When only the finest of adjustments must be carried out Peter

 

[sissysphoto]

There your csneras. I have a different belief. Every camera deserves to be repaired to what came with it. I fix them all. The ugly with the beautiful.

 

[Ai Print]

If there is one workshop or class I would put at the top of my list, it would be to learn how to repair V system components. It’s my favorite and most important camera system and at some point, good repairmen are going to be in very short supply.

 

[naeroscatu]

If there is one workshop or class I would put at the top of my list, it would be to learn how to repair V system components. It’s my favorite and most important camera system and at some point, good repairmen are going to be in very short supply.

+1. So far I managed to learn and perform well complete overhaul of the A12 magazines. I have also fixed a problem with the back curtain not closing all the way. I can definitely use a workshop on the body.

 

[John Koehrer]

Removing the shell isn't that hard. You're not fiddling with the works beyond what's protruding from the shell. The lens
mount isn't removed, quick release and the winding knob, WLF are and if I remember there are a couple of hidden screws
under the leatherette.