in my limited experience this is normal . . I have two 500CM bodies and two prism finders, they both have a bit of "wiggle" don't worry about it, have fun with your new cameras.
I accepted the wiggleTried to stick some tape on it, but didn't have anything around that wasn't quite sticky on both sides. It doesn't bother me too much, as long as it won't cause any problems down the line. Looking forward to getting my first negatives back.
Sorry, I just meant tape that is somewhat sticky on the upper surface rather than smooth (i.e duct tape).One does not need double stick tape. Just build up thin layers as necessary.
My Prism doesn't seem to have either of those features. It does however have two little spring loaded balls at the rear end of the mount, which push that side down. However, that means that the prism still has room to wiggle at the front (lens facing side).You should not need to use tape or spacers to correct the prism looseness on the hasselblads. They all have a mechanical spring that is used to take up the slack. I have a NC-2, PME51 and a PM90.
The PME51 uses a thin plate on top of the main plate, which has a raised flange near the end that takes up the slack. You may need to bend up the spring a bit, easily done with a knife edge.
View attachment 243220
The PM90 has a cutout that is bent to spring load itself in the slot. Again a slight bend with a pair ot needle nose pliers does the job.
View attachment 243219
My Prism doesn't seem to have either of those features. It does however have two little spring loaded balls at the rear end of the mount, which push that side down. However, that means that the prism still has room to wiggle at the front (lens facing side).
What about slightly deforming the base plate on the slide-in edge? A pair of needle nose pliers and a bit of crimping or bending of a small section. Lightly, of course, and slowly, just enough to have the crimped area provide a little drag and stop the wiggling.
I'll point out that the viewing prism/magnifier is not that sensitive to focus, or that slight wear that produces play in the prism would have effected your focus a long time ago. It's position only has to be within range for your eyes to focus on the screen. The mirror to screen precision is another story.All very bad ideas. Especially when low cost effective methods have been recommended by people who used them. Deforming the base would change the distance from the mirror; a sledge hammer would be more effective.What about slightly deforming the base plate on the slide-in edge? A pair of needle nose pliers and a bit of crimping or bending of a small section. Lightly, of course, and slowly, just enough to have the crimped area provide a little drag and stop the wiggling.
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