Hasselblad 203FE Focus Screen

[c41]

I have a Hasselblad 203FE with the original Acute Matte D screen (no grid or split, just the metering circle indicator)

I have good eyesight (for now at least) and the screen has never popped into focus, not even like my much older Rolleiflex with an original screen, there is just no point that things come into sharp focus.

For this reason I'd like to get a new screen with split image (and possibly 1/3rds grid)

I've discovered the Hasselblad version for this camera is the 42219, an Acute Matte D with split/grid.
This screen seems to be rarer than hen's teeth and when it does appear, expensive.

Just wondering what I can expect from other options as they're all proving really hard to source (I'm located in Australia) and expensive (>the price of a lens) and I'm concerned the 42219 will also lack the pop with focus despite the split image aid.

Anyone have any suggestions? Or do I roll the dice on Beattie vs Maxwell - I can't find anything online as to pricing with those choices - let alone where to actually buy them?
The split image is really insurance so I can be sure I can find focus somehow or other.

Thanks. Love the (noisy, battery eating, chunky, fragile) camera in all other respects ( ), just the focus screen has me stumped.

 

[Sirius Glass]

It sounds like the focusing screen is not in the right place. You need a Hasselblad repairman to align and adjust the camera body and correctly locate the focusing screen.

 

[c41]

Thanks. So you think the screen should really pop into focus? It's difficult as I have nothing to which to directly compare.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Thanks. So you think the screen should really pop into focus? It's difficult as I have nothing to which to directly compare.

Yes. Move the focus quickly and you should be able to see it pop in and out of focus.

 

[c41]

Thanks again. I'll try giving it all another (dry) clean and triple check everything is aligned. It may be the screen isn't right as zero pop so far.

 

[itsdoable]

If you have the acute matte "D" screen, then you have one of the best screens available for the Hasselblad V series. First thing I would check is that the dioptre on your waist level (or prism) is correct for you - I found that some were just a tiny bit far-sighted for me, and I had trouble with critical focus. Changing it to one that was correct for me, made a significant difference.

The non-D versions (which I still use) were a little vague at the point of focus, which was remedied by the "D" - which really made is as good as the original (non-acute matte) screen, but a lot brighter. You could source an original non-acute matte screen and see if it snaps better for you, they are cheap, and are fine in bright light.

I prefer using the micro-prism aid - it works on lines & object in any orientation, better for moving objects, and it was the first focus aid I used, a long long time ago (42250). I've always wanted the 42215 (D - split with micro-prism collar) but they were hard to find, and $$$. I have a BrightScreen split image with micro-prism collar that I use a lot, not as bright as the acute mattes, but close, and good contrast. Oddly enough, I currently had the plain acute matte (42165) in my 203 right now - because I'm shooting an old Imagon lens.

 

[c41]

Thanks. I did try the dioptre, the camera came with a-1 in the WLF, so I tried a '0' (bye bye $100) but it makes no difference.
I now think, from further searching, that all 203FE came with a -1 as default to assist viewing the ridiculously tiny LCD screen?
Anyway, dioptre didn't help.

I gave the camera a big clean last night, checked everything is correctly in place, which it appears to be, and checked again.
It is maybe 2% improved from the cleaning but still focus just drifts past, it doesn't snap in the slightest, at least compared to other cameras I have owned and used.
Considering I have all f/2 -f/2.8 lenses, it's not the brightness, but the (lack of) contrast on the centered subject when in perfect focus.

I think I will just have to bite the bullet and get split/micro-prism. Any idea where I might source a 'BrightScreen' one from? Or alternatives?

 

[itsdoable]

... Any idea where I might source a 'BrightScreen' one from? Or alternatives?

Mine came form that auction site, but I never saw them that often. I was looking for the 42215, and settled on the Brightscreen because it was cheaper, and worked for me.

I picked up a 42170 (split image with grid, regular acute matte) at an lbs for ~$100. I don't really use it - if you were closer, we could trade and you could try it to see if something like that would work well enough for you (I've wanted to see how much better a "D" screen really is).

Hasselblad lenses have a pretty long focus throw, and the lack of "pop" you see may just be that the lens focuses slowly through the critical focus zone.

 

[chassis]

Can another person focus your camera sharply? The person would need to know what critical focus is when they see it. Just an idea to help you save a few $, I'm not a Hasselblad user.

 

[Chris Livsey]

You are correct a 42219 is for the 202/203 but that is only because it has the correct 28mm ring to indicate the metering zone. You could equally use the 42217 (6mm spot ring for 205) 42215,42207,42170 or 42203 all of which have a split image finder and are Acute Matte if you are not fussy about other markings and given the scarcity re-selling would not be a problem if you didn't like it. That would expand considerably the screens you could look for.

As a general comment on your woes, you must have the correct diopter correction to see focus, you are correct the 202/3/5 models had 42374 -1D as standard and if neutral made no difference I think you can discount that.
The screen should be aligned of course but mis-alignment across the whole field would still result in a correct focus point being seen on the screen regardless of the adjustment just that the plane of focus on the screen would not correspond to the film plane focus and images on film would be mis-focussed.
You make on interesting observation that the original Rolleiflex screen did pop into focus for you, those older screens and the original Hasselblad screens were "dim" but had a high contrast. The first series Acute Matte screens were heavily criticised for being hard to focus by pro photographers and the second release was re-designed, by Minolta, to address the issue, how far that succeeded is open to debate. The increase in brightness was accompanied by a corresponding decrease in contrast and it is the contrast by which focus is achieved, the pop, brightness aids composition. The general view is always "I want a bright screen" but be careful what you wish for.
I would agree with a poster above that you should try an older screen , they are very inexpensive, just to see if it pops for you but I do think, because I use one by preference, that a split screen is the way to go ( and I fully understand that focussing aids are a very individual choice) in an Acute Matte screen. That gives the best of both worlds, brightness and accuracy. The downside, sorry, is the split screen does need careful vertical alignment of the viewing eye to work without blacking out which again it is prone to do even when lined up on longer focal lengths, it works best with a prism or chimney finder not waist level. It is workable of course on waist level but can be frustrating.
There is no one best screen for manual focus, that's why Nikon made 23 different ones for the F3 and Hasselblad around 8 in the catalogue at any one time varying over the years in the designs available.

 

[c41]

Thanks for all the replies. The details of the other screen options are hugely useful Chris, thanks.

The best way I could describe the contrast/pop at the moment is 'soggy'. I can get 95% of the way there with ease but rolling back and forth across the exact focus point never quite satisfies.

I think your final point above is the most salient, everyone has a different preference/method. For me, my current set up is just too slow when I'm pointing all of this at another person.

I'll definitely go with a split and micro-prism, just have to see what I can find. I also see there are $30 Chinese options with just split on ebay, so I could always try one of those as a shot to nothing whilst I wait to find the right one.

I still love the camera (and lenses). Just spent a weekend out in the countryside with it and only wish I'd exposed twice as much film now I'm back.
I'll get there. It's just, as always, the horrible price of Hasselblad accessories plus buying them sight unseen, so wanted to be sure any purchase is a prudent one.

I'll update when I eventually change the screen FWIW.

 

[philipus]

I also have the 203FE with, I believe, the screen it came with. One thing I have found affects the ease of seeing whether focus is accurate is (and this may sound strange) dirt on the screen. I often have lots of little black spots that come from within the chimney or from my less-than-clean-enough bag etc. Cleaning the screen with a cloth will assist a lot. I know this is a pretty silly thing but I thought I should mention it.

I rarely get the "pop" experience when I focus. Perhaps I'm just not able to see it or there's something wrong with the camera, I don't know. I do know, though, that I have accurate focus when I see very clearly the screen's thin circular lines "on" my focus point. It's a bit difficult to describe, but basically my screen has lots and lots of small circular lines in the big circle and these become much, much clearer where the image is in focus. Most Carl Zeiss lenses have a long focus throw so it takes, at least for me, a bit of turning the focusing ring back and forth to obtain the best focus. When this happens it is in a way a sort of "pop" moment, but not really. Still the lines are very clearly visible.

br
Philip

The best way I could describe the contrast/pop at the moment is 'soggy'. I can get 95% of the way there with ease but rolling back and forth across the exact focus point never quite satisfies.

Thank you Chris. This is a very helpful post.
br
Philip

You are correct a 42219 is for the 202/203 but that is only because it has the correct 28mm ring to indicate the metering zone. You could equally use the 42217 (6mm spot ring for 205) 42215,42207,42170 or 42203 all of which have a split image finder and are Acute Matte if you are not fussy about other markings and given the scarcity re-selling would not be a problem if you didn't like it. That would expand considerably the screens you could look for.

As a general comment on your woes, you must have the correct diopter correction to see focus, you are correct the 202/3/5 models had 42374 -1D as standard and if neutral made no difference I think you can discount that.
The screen should be aligned of course but mis-alignment across the whole field would still result in a correct focus point being seen on the screen regardless of the adjustment just that the plane of focus on the screen would not correspond to the film plane focus and images on film would be mis-focussed.
You make on interesting observation that the original Rolleiflex screen did pop into focus for you, those older screens and the original Hasselblad screens were "dim" but had a high contrast. The first series Acute Matte screens were heavily criticised for being hard to focus by pro photographers and the second release was re-designed, by Minolta, to address the issue, how far that succeeded is open to debate. The increase in brightness was accompanied by a corresponding decrease in contrast and it is the contrast by which focus is achieved, the pop, brightness aids composition. The general view is always "I want a bright screen" but be careful what you wish for.
I would agree with a poster above that you should try an older screen , they are very inexpensive, just to see if it pops for you but I do think, because I use one by preference, that a split screen is the way to go ( and I fully understand that focussing aids are a very individual choice) in an Acute Matte screen. That gives the best of both worlds, brightness and accuracy. The downside, sorry, is the split screen does need careful vertical alignment of the viewing eye to work without blacking out which again it is prone to do even when lined up on longer focal lengths, it works best with a prism or chimney finder not waist level. It is workable of course on waist level but can be frustrating.
There is no one best screen for manual focus, that's why Nikon made 23 different ones for the F3 and Hasselblad around 8 in the catalogue at any one time varying over the years in the designs available.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I learned to move the focus quickly and back and forth. After a short time I learned to focus quickly.

 

[c41]

FWIW I ended up picking up an Acute Matte D with micro-prism and the difference is huge.

Now I can even focus in good light with just the WLF, before this was impossible.

Im sure my previous screen had some kind of problem. I was seriously considering giving up on this camera it was so frustrating.

As it is i still hate its batteries and its sonic boom shutter noise and its ridiculous tiny, awkwardly placed meter readout but these are 'worth it' now I can focus more easily.

Thanks again for the advice all.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I love the TH-Wack of the Hasselblad shutter. "It says I am here!"

 

[c41]

I recently found myself stood in a field near a horse holding my 203FE.
I metered, focused, framed, waited for the moment, two souls in a field, then BANG goes the shutter, WOAAAAH goes the horse and we both ran for our lives!

 

[Chris Livsey]

I

I love the TH-Wack of the Hasselblad shutter. "It says I am here!"

I once shot the Venice Biennale with a 500c/m the silence and profundity of the moment was shall we say, disturbed, regularly but never was I asked to stop or leave, respect for the camera was shown.
So pleased the OP was converted and not lost to the brand it does sound as if the original screen was perhaps "cleaned" or "improved" previously, two D screens should be very similar indeed.