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Hasselblad 2000 series

nsurit

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If looking at medium format, is there any compelling reason to not look at the Hasselblad 2000 series? Other than a damaged shutter, is the anything in particular to be aware of if buying a 2000 series? Thank you, Bill Barber
 
Hi Bill, the fastest flash sync is 1/90th while with the 500 series the lens usually has 1/500th sync. I found it problematic to use a digital back with the 2000 series so I think that is out for that model, the 500 series uses many digital backs with a flash sync cord telling the back when the shutter is wide open so the DB can expose the image. The 2000 series will not work without batteries. Those are just some of the drawbacks that I know of. As far as the pluses, one of the big ones is the great lenses, most are the same lenses the 500 uses but with a larger aperture since there is more room for elements instead of a shutter. The 50mm F lens aperture is 2.8 compared with f4 for the CF version, and I also think the F lens has a floating lens element, making it as good as the 50mm CF FLE lens. Others may know more pros and cons to the 2000 series. Bob.
 
Even apart from the non-availability of replacement shutter curtains for the earliest 2000 models, my impression is that availability of any repairs at all for a 2000-series camera is iffy. I know that some Hasselblad shops like David Odess won't touch them. Might be worth asking around specifically about that.
 
For parts, lenses, accessory, and service availability I stick with the 500 series.
 
I have a 2000fc/m,

The 2000's main issue is that it's easy to damage the shutter curtains with the film back removed. Replacements are difficult to get, but realistically, if you could get a replacement shutter curtain, the cost of getting that service done is the same a another used 2000 body.

The other issue that can brick the body is the electromagnet failure, as there are no replacements. But as above, the service if that part was available would cost as mush as another used body.

The other negatives are: the metal FP shutter is pretty loud and sharp - the sound is not as nice as a 500 serise.

The batteries last for ever, half dead batteries work fine in the 2000 body. (this is not true for a 200 body)

They can use both the C/CF lenses or the F lenses, so you can do anything a 500 serise canera can do as well as use all the F lenses. You can also modify any other lens to mount on it. However, if you are not planning to use the faster F lenses, then it is pointless to purchase a more expensive 2000 body over a 500.
 
I'm using 2000FCW. The only issue is not to forget to re-cock shutter after changing film back, for example from instant film to regular 120 or 70mm. As for shutter damage, retraction mechanism is very quick and reliable. My main use of this camera is with lenses not meant to be mounted on Hasselblad. Also, I'm using all my C&CF lenses. Just recently I got Zeiss F lens 2.8/150mm. Picture with it is amazing, full 3D in viewfinder. 2000FCW works beautifully with Sonnar 5.6/250 - no bottom vigneting as on 500 series. It's fun camera to use, recommended! Especially if you already have their 500 system.
 
Bill, I am sort of / kinda looking into the Hassy system as well. I would think the big plus with the 200 series is the 100/2 lens. Not sure if that alone is worth it though.
 
Not sure if that alone is worth it though.
Click to expand...

It is! A friend of mine has a 2000FC only to shoot this lens. He got the camera v e r y cheap some time ago but it´s working. The look that the 110/2 can produce is really different from what can be achieved with the other lenses. Only drawback is that it´s not easy to hit the focus perfectly, especially in portraiture. My impression is that the 2000 series can be had quite cheaply now, maybe because people are afraid of repairs? The lenses are also down in prices, except for the 110mm which is still very expensive. Not so 50/2,8, 150/2,8 and 250/4.
 
Advantages of 200fcm

I bought the fcm when first released by Hasselblad many years ago because I liked the feel of the hassy body but back then could not afford the lenses. Relatively cheap adapters allowed me to use many of my Leitz lenses as well as the 90mm mikro kilar as my evrryday lens as well as 150，and 300 kilars and olympic sonnars. I only recently bought a 500cm and lenses because their now afordable status. In all these years I have never had a problem with the 2000fcm. Do avoid the fc...the curtain doesnt retract，and be gentle when fixing back to camera.
 
The repair issue is a serious one to keep in mind. I have a broken 2003FCW that is basically a paper weight because no one will service it. You are better off buying a 201F, as Hasselblad will still service them as long as they have parts.
 
You can buy a few 2000 Hasselblads for the price of a 201F
 
I spoke to a professional Hasselblad repairman recently and I asked what Hassy to look for. He warned me not to get a 2000 series camera. A lot of them have issues and most parts aren't available anymore (like shutters).

Bert from Holland
http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
 

I was told the same thing by the professional Hasselblad repairman Samys Camera.
 
Me three... They said the 500c 500cm may be the best because there are lots of parts and it's all mechanical and easy to fix and the bodies are relatively cheap... Two days later I found a late model 500c with replaceable ground glass with three lenses and two backs for 300 dollars on Craigslist... But that was 7 yrs ago when prices weren't as crazy


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

Actually, he told to pass on the 500 models (old & issues) and better to look for a decent 501CM (no TTL flash) or a 503CW.

Bert from Holland
http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
 
TheToadMen said:
Actually, he told to pass on the 500 models (old & issues) and better to look for a decent 501CM (no TTL flash) or a 503CW.

Bert from Holland
http://thetoadmen.blogspot.nl
Click to expand...

Yup he said that too but since I was going overseas drilling water wells he recommended the cheaper 500c/m just in case... It's about 1/4 the cost... I ended up picking up another cm body for 250 dollars for the trip


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I have a 503 CX which I am happy with.
 
Even though my first Hasselblad was a new 501C in 1994, I always felt it was a cheapened version because of its lack of a body-cocked indicator. One repairman told me the body isn't as stiff as the older 500's. Also, I wasn't fond of the reduced-functionality "C" lens that was part of the package. Though I still have and use it, and it's a perfectly good camera, my initial discontent eventually caused me to get an older 500C/M and proper CF lens.

With the drop in prices in the digital era, I now have all the Hasselblad models and lenses I've always wanted, except one: the 205FCC or 205TCC (because of its Zone System feature). Have never seen one, though.
 
If I recall correctly, Douglas Fairbanks has advised that the 2000 curtains may be successfully replaced with fabric types and that he has done this conversion a few times. Therefore the absence of replacement shutter parts is not necessarily an insurmountable problem. FYI
 
Someone just sold a 205TCC for ~1900 Euros in another forum. I am looking at a 501CM myself.
 
I think the 203FE was the best V series camera Hasselblad ever made. But the 501CM is a great choice. It doesn't have the silky smooth feel of a good 500CM but the GMS mirror system is really nice.
 
The reason I was inquiring was because there was one at a local estate sale. It was a 2000 FC and sold for $455 with an 80mm lens and had a dent in the shutter curtain.Seemed to be functional. A 50mm lens was also sold at $295. Maybe a good deal, perhaps just an OK deal. Being totally unfamiliar with the camera and second in line behind the guy who bought it, I didn't buy it.
 
Dent´s in the shutter curtain can be problematic, but sometimes they are not. Some curtains have wrinkles but they are still light tight. Others may look almost okay but leak. The best way to tell is to pre-release the mirror and shine with a very strong flashlight trough the curtains and watch for light leaks. 455$ sounds a bit high for a 2000FC even with 80mm lens. Apart from that, if you want to use an 80mm lens, I think this camera is the least I would choose. Would rather opt for a Rolleiflex TLR, Hasselblad 501CM or SL66 in nice condition instead. The prime reason to shoot the 2000 series is because of the 110/2 (or the other fast lenses) IMHO, or for adapting 3rd party lenses, but here the SL66 would win because of built in focussing.
 
I confirm what Brett has said but I wanted to add that I am not offering that as a repair option, it is a conversion I did for myself quite unofficially and a friend demanded I sell the camera to him and it has worked reliably for him for many years. However I do not usually service or repair the 2000 series cameras due to issues regarding spares, I feel it is not possible to offer any kind of warranty and I am not comfortable with that. 200 series cameras are best serviced or repaired at the factory in my opinion as the spares parts cost make keeping them in stock unprofitable. Everything else V system based I handle on a regular basis in the UK under the name Classic V, I do not encourage customers to ship items to me from overseas due to costs and taxes and there are many very good people in most countries throughout the world who can help you.
 
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