- Joined
- May 5, 2007
- Messages
- 6
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- Medium Format
The mirror release also works without battery. The release of the shutter curtains is controlled by solenoids. They might be dirty. Or the electronics has a fault.
Dearest Emaks;
having visited Sweden and Cape North twice many years ago I am really far from alarming you; however, as what I know all discussions of the Hasselblad 2000, the early ones of this series, are boiling down to a simple answer: Use it to put a bunch of spring flowers in it or anything else - however take a gentle leave from the idea that you will have a chance of taking photos with it again.
Jan-Peter
Dear Gorbas, that comes as a bit of a surprise. I will look into it. Very good news. Thanks.Hi Emaks, If Hasselblad Sweden service can not help you, contact: https://www.hassypb.com/fix-hasselblad/en/promotion, johnhasselblad@gmail.com in Bangkok, Thailand. They are still working on 2000 series cameras.
They fixed my 2000 FCW and another 2000 FCM from the friend. Right now I have there 1000F body for full CLA.
I bought and still have a 2003 FCW that has been my main camera all these years. Never failed me after first service 1990. I had some problems with it first year and Hasselblad had it serviced in Stockholm/ Odenplan.The A12 backs would jump off the camera. I think they replaced the bottom of the camera to make it more reliable. Maybe also the shutter release. I believe it was so. We all had monoball heads with plate adapters and when you tight them hard , strange things happens with the body. I also have two 201F that I never used much, one of them has been a problem child, Hasselblad told me that could also been the case with the monoball plate that you tighten with too much force.
Oh! - Many thanks to Gorbas, indeed! - You are the first to let me know that there is help for the 2000-series! - I will remember that though I do not own one - "only" a 500 C/M. - Anyway; big and fast help for emaks!!
Jan-Peter
Dear Gorbas, that comes as a bit of a surprise. I will look into it. Very good news. Thanks.
You are very welcome Emaks!
Regarding your username, I spend many years printing on that paper.
Here is variation, single weight version:
View attachment 391332
Hello all. In front of me is a Hasselblad 2000 FC behaving a bit strange.
The 2000 FC has a new battery and when I fire, the mirror goes up but nothing happens with the shutter in camera. I can wind the camera (if I push the centre pin inside the crank) and take another shot , same thing happens. This is without a back and without a lens. If I have a lens and back on, same thing happens. I understand no one service these cameras anymore but...
I live in Sweden and I might ask Hasselblad directly but I think I know the answer.
Anyone experienced this or have some thoughts?
What is going on with the shutter curtain ( looks to be in a fantastic condition)?
Kind Regards
Hi, I have a story to address emaks k888 original post
For several decades I have owned a Hasselblad 2000FC which together with a 500CM shot most of my professional studio work on colour reversal and negative film stock
However after leaving the business of commercial work my Hasselblad kit simply lay stored in equipment cases, whilst my personal project photography was done with 35mm cameras. Several years ago I decided to resume using medium format to make black and white prints, so both Hasselblads were put back to use
The 2000FC worked as normal fitted with 'C' type leaf shutter lenses until one day it began misfiring. On pressing the shutter release the mirror would flip up but the focal plane shutter blinds would not open or allow the rest of the exposure sequence to trigger. Then from years ago I recalled a comment from a Hasselblad UK technician when I had the camera serviced calling into the question the reliability of the 2000FC electronics. I assumed that was it, the electronics were kaput and there is no one who is able to make repairs to the 2000 series cameras plus there are absolutely no spare parts available
During my research into repair solutions, I discovered some online conjecture about the electromagnets or solenoids going bad that control the shutter opening and closing. In reality they only fail to operate when there is insufficient power to energize the coils. Occasionally I would try winding and firing the 2000FC but it still refused to work even with a new battery, but sometimes there would be a rapid clicking noise from inside the body and a couple of times the shutter would open and close twice then go dead again. There must be something going on I thought
Thinking back to previous repairs I have made to cameras and equipment with built in electronics the most common problem was poor conductivity or broken continuity in the electrical circuits caused by corrosion or oxidation on metal parts often not easy to see. As I have a dead 2000FC body, I could disassemble it, clean up as much as possible, then reassemble to probably still have a dead camera. So nothing lost and nothing gained
Knowing that Hasselblads are extremely complex mechanical machines I took extra care in separating the inner body core from the outer shell and made certain that nothing was touched that would alter the alignment of film plane, focusing screen, mirror, gear trains or lens register. Then I used an aerosol can of electrical contact/switch cleaner with a long straw nozzle to spray into the base of the camera where most of the electronic components are fitted.
Wiped clean with alcohol the complex array of gold plated tracks and resistors on the side that control shutter speeds. Allowed all to dry off. Finally lubricated with watch oil or synthetic grease any moving parts that might need it, then put it all back together again
Fitted fresh battery, turned the wind on crank, pressed the shutter button and VOILA! the camera went through the exposure sequence perfectly and worked at all shutter speeds. So I now have a resurrected 2000FC that works great in focal plane or leaf shutter mode with a newly acquired 120 macro lens
Then I used an aerosol can of electrical contact/switch cleaner with a long straw nozzle to spray into the base of the camera where most of the electronic components are fitted.
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