For Sale Hasselblad 150mm f/4 Sonnar T*

illumiquest · Jun 4, 2010

Another good user...

Barrel has quite a bit of cosmetic wear but mechanics are working great, focus smooth, shutter accurate and aperture functioning as it should. Front element has a few light polish marks which haven't showed up in any of the photos I've taken with the lens. There's a couple of specks of dust inside.

Overall a good performer if you don't mind not working with the prettiest lens on the planet.

- $170 plus shipping.

A sample taken with the lens last week

jordanstarr · Jun 4, 2010

That's a hell of a deal. If I didn't have one, I'd grab this in a second. Mine has some marks on it too, doesn't effect quality in the least.

illumiquest · Jun 6, 2010

Sold!

Shelley-Ann · Jun 21, 2010

Just a short note to say that I received the lens almost two weeks ago (Less than a week after payment) . I tested out yesterday - it's great.
Thanks again!

TareqPhoto · Jun 22, 2010

Too bad, i came out, i would like to buy this lens, so i have to look somewhere else.

wclark5179 · Jun 22, 2010

Yes, I like the Zeiss 150mm Sonnar f4.0 lens!

Nice pic!

Q.G. · Jun 22, 2010

They are not exactly rare, Tareq. So though the price asked for this one was very good, you shouldn't have to look very hard or long to find another one.

ayiomamitis · Sep 20, 2010

Can someone suggest a few things to look for when buying one of these lenses used from eBay? I am looking for such a lens right now and this is new territory for me.

Q.G. · Sep 20, 2010

The main thing is something you can't look for: do the shutter and aperture mechanisms still work properly?
The shutterspeeds, especially the long ones, tend to become slow, due to filthy, possibly hardened (due to lack of use) grease.

Focussing can get stiff. The PC-flash terminal may have gone bad (if so, it's a loose contact inside, which can be fixed, but probably needs parts that have to come from another, donor lens). And (related to the shutter thingy) the self timer/X-M synchronisation selector may notwork anymore.

Apart from that, if the glass is clear and clean, and the barrel doesn't look like it has gone through a couple of nuclear wars, there's not much.

But that's about the C versions.
The later CF versions (and the later CFi/CFE) also can have a sticky shutter. The EV-coupling button may have gone. The DOF-preview lever may have become dislodged (not working the aperture anymore). And the clip ring behind the rubber on the focussing ring may have broken and gone awol.
Nothing that can't be fixed. But better to not have to have it fixed, of course.

TareqPhoto · Sep 20, 2010

Q.G. said:
The main thing is something you can't look for: do the shutter and aperture mechanisms still work properly?
The shutterspeeds, especially the long ones, tend to become slow, due to filthy, possibly hardened (due to lack of use) grease.

Focussing can get stiff. The PC-flash terminal may have gone bad (if so, it's a loose contact inside, which can be fixed, but probably needs parts that have to come from another, donor lens). And (related to the shutter thingy) the self timer/X-M synchronisation selector may notwork anymore.

Apart from that, if the glass is clear and clean, and the barrel doesn't look like it has gone through a couple of nuclear wars, there's not much.

But that's about the C versions.
The later CF versions (and the later CFi/CFE) also can have a sticky shutter. The EV-coupling button may have gone. The DOF-preview lever may have become dislodged (not working the aperture anymore). And the clip ring behind the rubber on the focussing ring may have broken and gone awol.
Nothing that can't be fixed. But better to not have to have it fixed, of course.

I would like to ask you, how can i fix the problem of the hardened grease? I have one lens i bought new and due not using it for long time the focus ring don't move manually, so how can i fix it?

Q.G. · Sep 20, 2010

There are two ways, the second of which you will need when the first one doesn't help.

If the problem isn't too bad, using the lens a lot, giving the moving parts some exercise, helps work the grease into a better state (or rather: loose) and frees the lens.
The second one is to have the lens serviced, the old grease removed, the mechanics cleaned, and relubed.
If the first method works, it will still be necessary to send the lens in for a CLA sooner or later.

But if the focusing mount is so stiff that it will not move at all, there's no way you could get away using method 1. The problem may be more than just stiff grease. Metal chafings in the thread. Possibly a damaged thread too...
So i'm afraid it sound like your lens needs a repair shop.

TareqPhoto · Sep 20, 2010

Q.G. said:
There are two ways, the second of which you will need when the first one doesn't help.

If the problem isn't too bad, using the lens a lot, giving the moving parts some exercise, helps work the grease into a better state (or rather: loose) and frees the lens.
The second one is to have the lens serviced, the old grease removed, the mechanics cleaned, and relubed.
If the first method works, it will still be necessary to send the lens in for a CLA sooner or later.

But if the focusing mount is so stiff that it will not move at all, there's no way you could get away using method 1. The problem may be more than just stiff grease. Metal chafings in the thread. Possibly a damaged thread too...
So i'm afraid it sound like your lens needs a repair shop.

It is not moving at all, so i think that grease is dead or gone, so i will try again with my hands if it can move even slightly but without rough so not going to damage it, if not moving then yes, send it to service.

Thank you very much!

brucemuir · Sep 21, 2010

Tereq,
first rule..
never force anything on a camera.
but you knew that

The 150 is the sharpest "C" lens I own at the moment.
It is also a non "T" version so if a deal comes on one they are generally a good bit cheaper.

For Sale Hasselblad 150mm f/4 Sonnar T*

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