Hasselblad 150mm CF T* lens issue

[DonF]

My daughter just picked up a kit of Hasselblad gear that included a 150mm CF T* lens that appeared in very nice shape.

When we attempted to mount this lens to the cocked 500CM camera body, we were unable to do so. A quick examination revealed that the small winding screw on the back of the lens was in the uncocked position. We inserted a coin in the screw and attempted to rotate it a full turn back to the locked position, However, it refused to latch in place, making it impossible to remount on the camera body.

Being unfamiliar with the CF lenses, I was wondering if there was a setting on the lens (DOF preview, "T"-mode lock ???) that might prevent the lens winding mechanism from latching. I fiddled quite a bit to no avail.

I did get it to latch once and installed on the camera. It seemed to work fine. until I wound the camera and removed it. The lens immediately snapped to the unwound position. This seems bad since the camera body had to bear the force of the unlatched lens spring on the winding screw.

Time for a return to the Ebay seller or CLA?

Thanks for any insights!

Best,

Don

 

[mike c]

Do your other lens work ok on the Hasselblad body, if so there is something wrong with the 150mm, send it back. If the 150mm is your only lens the trouble could be either the lens or the body.

 

[DonF]

Do your other lens work ok on the Hasselblad body, if so there is something wrong with the 150mm, send it back. If the 150mm is your only lens the trouble could be either the lens or the body.

The other two lenses (an 80mm C T* and a 50mm CF T*) worked smoothly and without issue with the body.

I thought I might have something on the lens misconfigured, causing the failure to latch.

Don

 

[mike c]

Well it could be, I thought that all there lens will work with the 500cm except the 2000 shutter less lens for the focal plane shuttered body. All mine are C lens and the only trouble I had with mounting the lens was when I first bought the camera and tried to mount a lens to the unchocked body. Check to see if the slotted pin is lined up with the red dot on both the lens and body. If these two get out of sink they will not mate to well causing trouble.

 

[DonF]

Well it could be, I thought that all there lens will work with the 500cm except the 2000 shutter less lens for the focal plane shuttered body. All mine are C lens and the only trouble I had with mounting the lens was when I first bought the camera and tried to mount a lens to the unchocked body. Check to see if the slotted pin is lined up with the red dot on both the lens and body. If these two get out of sink they will not mate to well causing trouble.

That's exactly what is happening. Except the 180mm CF won't latch when I try to cock it with a coin or screwdriver off-camera. The slotted winder screw on the lens rotates and has increasing tension, but as I approach 360 degrees of rotation, it does not latch.

Don

 

[mike c]

Okay, that will need a repair man, or return it to seller. If you have a good repair guy ask if it would be an easy repair and maybe work some thing out with the seller, BUT I would NOT try to attach to the camera body, it could jam them up together.

 

[Sirius Glass]

It does take a little force to latch the lens with a screw driver, however its release after cocking the lens on the camera means it is time for a CLA or in your care a return. Call KEH and ask what a CLA costs and look at the prices for their CF 150mm lens as a guide to decide what you want to do.

If you advance the film and the lens does not stay cocked, put in the dark slide, remove the back and cock the camera again. Then quickly remove the lens, do not leave it on the camera. An uncocked lens cannot be removed without causing damage to the body.

 

[itsdoable]

The key latch is a little hook with a small spring on inside of the lens' rear plate. It can get sticky with old lube, or bent. This latch is released by the small pin protected by the raised semicircle collar visible next to the key. When the lens is mounted, a pin on the body pushes this pin sidways to release the latch. The pin on the lens should move a millimieter or so to release the latch, wiggling this may reset the latch. If that is all, it's an easy fix for those that are mechanically inclined.

 

[DonF]

The key latch is a little hook with a small spring on inside of the lens' rear plate. It can get sticky with old lube, or bent. This latch is released by the small pin protected by the raised semicircle collar visible next to the key. When the lens is mounted, a pin on the body pushes this pin sideways to release the latch. The pin on the lens should move a millimieter or so to release the latch, wiggling this may reset the latch. If that is all, it's an easy fix for those that are mechanically inclined.

I noticed that the shutter release pin was firmly against the edge of the C and did not move to center when the cocking screw was rotated. Perhaps jiggling the pin gently with the screw rotated and held under tension in the proper locking orientation might free things up. A two-man job for sure. I don't think I would open this lens, although I have performed numerous shutter repairs and CLAs.

Sounds like the issue is indicative of needing a CLA, but at least it would verify that its just a sticking component, not major internal damage.

Thanks for that!

Don

 

[DonF]

It does take a little force to latch the lens with a screw driver, however its release after cocking the lens on the camera means it is time for a CLA or in your care a return. Call KEH and ask what a CLA costs and look at the prices for their CF 150mm lens as a guide to decide what you want to do.

If you advance the film and the lens does not stay cocked, put in the dark slide, remove the back and cock the camera again. Then quickly remove the lens, do not leave it on the camera. An uncocked lens cannot be removed without causing damage to the body.

Yes, it became jammed at one point. And even going through the back and turning the internal screw would not help as the lens would still not latch!!!! I did exactly whet you suggested and it came off. I can't imagine that force from the unlatched lens spring was good for the 500CM drive mechanism, although it appeared to function normally.

Seems like a good reason not to use the lens unless it 100% can be made to rewind and trigger manually with the lens off the body by turning the screw and pushing sideways against the trigger pin.

Don

 

[DonF]

The key latch is a little hook with a small spring on inside of the lens' rear plate. It can get sticky with old lube, or bent. This latch is released by the small pin protected by the raised semicircle collar visible next to the key. When the lens is mounted, a pin on the body pushes this pin sidways to release the latch. The pin on the lens should move a millimieter or so to release the latch, wiggling this may reset the latch. If that is all, it's an easy fix for those that are mechanically inclined.

Attached is a photo showing the properly wound and cocked 50mm CF lens (on the left). Note the position of the shutter release pin toward the center of the lens and the aligned slot and red mark.

The problem 150mm lens on right has a slot unaligned with the red mark and the release pin toward the edge of the lens in the released state.

Rotating the screw on the lens on the right should cause the pin to move to the center and latch as the screw is turned 360 degrees to align the slot with the red mark. The pin does not latch and remains towards the edge of the lens.

Best,

Don

 

[Eric Rose]

Send it back.

 

[pentaxpete]

I am having this same trouble now with the short extension tube bought in Hong Kong on a 'Stop-Over' some years ago. After several tries with a small British Coin it WILL latch correctly.

 

[DonF]

I am having this same trouble now with the short extension tube bought in Hong Kong on a 'Stop-Over' some years ago. After several tries with a small British Coin it WILL latch correctly.

I had a chance to try an experiment with the lens last night. I rotated the cocking screw about 360 degrees to align the slot and red dot and had my daughter jiggle the small release pin in its hole. It had absolutely no spring tension to push it into the locked position and flopped freely back and forth!

She could push it to the central latched position and the screw would then lock normally.

It appears the latch spring is either out of position or broken.

Time for repair!

One local Hasselblad repair guy suggested that I remove the back plate to examine the mechanism. He claims this can be done without much danger of further damage. I have repaired various shutters over the years, but nothing this high-end. Probably better to just get it repaired, as the Ebay seller has offered to pay for the repair. The three month lead time for the repair that everyone seems to quote is a bit of a disappointment, but them's the consequences of shooting an older premium system, I guess!

Best regards,

Don

 

[BrianShaw]

I am having this same trouble now with the short extension tube bought in Hong Kong on a 'Stop-Over' some years ago. After several tries with a small British Coin it WILL latch correctly.

On the rare occasion that I’ve eve had to manually cock a Hasselblad shutter, I’ve used a shiny American penny. Either a US or Canada cent. Works great... but the first time I did it I was shocked at how far past the dot one needs to go before it latches.

 

[DonF]

I had a chance to try an experiment with the lens last night. I rotated the cocking screw about 360 degrees to align the slot and red dot and had my daughter jiggle the small release pin in its hole. It had absolutely no spring tension to push it into the locked position and flopped freely back and forth!

She could push it to the central latched position and the screw would then lock normally.

It appears the latch spring is either out of position or broken.

Time for repair!

One local Hasselblad repair guy suggested that I remove the back plate to examine the mechanism. He claims this can be done without much danger of further damage. I have repaired various shutters over the years, but nothing this high-end. Probably better to just get it repaired, as the Ebay seller has offered to pay for the repair. The three month lead time for the repair that everyone seems to quote is a bit of a disappointment, but them's the consequences of shooting an older premium system, I guess!

Best regards,

Don

Rather than risking any further damage, I spoke with David Odess (http://www.david-odess.com/repair.html) and described the situation, We worked out a great arrangement for a repair. The Ebay seller agreed to cover the cost.. Dave is great guy to work with! He took the time to discuss what was wrong and suggested a solution to minimize cost and turnaround time.

Don

 

[DonF]

Rather than risking any further damage, I spoke with David Odess (http://www.david-odess.com/repair.html) and described the situation, We worked out a great arrangement for a repair. The Ebay seller agreed to cover the cost.. Dave is great guy to work with! He took the time to discuss what was wrong and suggested a solution to minimize cost and turnaround time.

Don

Happy ending!

Dave found that some misplaced grease was preventing the cocking latch from engaging. He cleaned off the grease and returned the lens in great operating order in record time.

The Ebay seller paid Dave directly.

Great cooperation was displayed all around in getting this resolved!.

Don

 

[BrianShaw]

Good news. Thanks for letting us know about the happy ending!

Thanks probably my most used Lens. Enjoy!