Hasselblad 1000F Magazine Removal

[bobwysiwyg]

I was recently given a Hasselblad 1000F and have begun playing around with it. I rounded up a manual (reprint) and it seems there is supposed to be some sort of dark slide inserted from the left before the magazine can be removed??? Trying to move the magazine latch to the right does not release the mag.

If I have this right, the dark slide is missing. I would like to remove the magazine, is there anything I can substitute for the dark slide? What does it engage inside the camera to release the magazine? There seems to be a thin plastic lip running up and down, not sure if the dark slide was to be inserted on the lens side of this, or the magazine side. The film holder slides out of the magazine fine, just the magazine itself is the problem.

 

[bdial]

Yes, you need the darkslide to remove the back. It actuates a lever inside the back which blocks the latch. At the lip you refer to is the slot where the slide fits.
If you really want full functionality, you can buy genuine darkslides, they aren't cheap though, usually about $30 U.S. probably less on ebay, but I've not looked lately.
They are fairly thin stainless steel, maybe 1/2 the thickness of a credit card. You could probably cobble up a substitute, but material thin enough with enough stiffness isn't common hardware store fodder.

 

[bobwysiwyg]

Thanks, I have a better understanding now.

 

[Philippe-Georges]

darkslide

You better use the genuine one, the shape of the corners and the curve of the end is very important to not to damage the inner light seal of the film magazine, not to mention the thickness, as bdial did.
And if you buy an used one, see that is is not bent, it might damage the lever which blocks the latch and the exposure release system.

Good luck with your wonderful 1000F!

Philippe

 

[Mark Layne]

I was recently given a Hasselblad 1000F and have begun playing around with it. I rounded up a manual (reprint) and it seems there is supposed to be some sort of dark slide inserted from the left before the magazine can be removed??? Trying to move the magazine latch to the right does not release the mag.

If I have this right, the dark slide is missing. I would like to remove the magazine, is there anything I can substitute for the dark slide? What does it engage inside the camera to release the magazine? There seems to be a thin plastic lip running up and down, not sure if the dark slide was to be inserted on the lens side of this, or the magazine side. The film holder slides out of the magazine fine, just the magazine itself is the problem.

DO NOT repeat DO NOT change the shutter speeds without first cocking the shutter
Mark

 

[Anscojohn]

Bob,
There is a website for ARAX foto in Ukraine.The guy there is very knowledgeable. You might email him and ask them if the dark slide for the Kiev 88, a 1000F clone, will work. He's sells those darkslides.

 

[bobwysiwyg]

Bob,
There is a website for ARAX foto in Ukraine.The guy there is very knowledgeable. You might email him and ask them if the dark slide for the Kiev 88, a 1000F clone, will work. He's sells those darkslides.

Thanks for this tip, the use of the genuine slide as well as the prohibition on changing speed without the shutter being cocked. I have read this model was prone to some jamming issues so I'm trying to avoid them.

 

[Q.G.]

DO NOT repeat DO NOT change the shutter speeds without first cocking the shutter

It's highly impractical to try to do so, change shutterspeed before winding, even with a Hasselblad, but YOU MUST NOT CONFUSE a 1000-series Hasselblad with its lousy-built ever-malfunctioning Ukranian Clone from Kiev.

 

[Mark Layne]

It's highly impractical to try to do so, change shutterspeed before winding, even with a Hasselblad, but YOU MUST NOT CONFUSE a 1000-series Hasselblad with its lousy-built ever-malfunctioning Ukranian Clone from Kiev.

It certainly is possible to rotate the shutter speed dial while the camera is not wound. I have been warned by repairmen never to do so, and both my 1000f and 1600f continue to function flawlessly

Mark

 

[Q.G.]

It certainly is possible to rotate the shutter speed dial while the camera is not wound. I have been warned by repairmen never to do so, and both my 1000f and 1600f continue to function flawlessly

So do mine (well, the times are a little bit off)

Hasselblad wrote in their manuals that it is fine to change shutterspeed before or after cocking the shutter. And you can (though it is a bit awkward when the camera is not wound yet).

It however also is true that especially the 1600 F was a delicate machine, and that problems occured also with the shutterspeed setting mechanism.
But those problems were not 'partial' to certain modes of operation. They would occur anyway, no matter whether you heeded advice not to set shutterspeeds before winding, or not to set speeds counterclockwise, or not.

The Hasselblad 1000 F is less delicate and really does not mind what you do, unless what you do involves a crowbar or sledgehammer.

For Kievs however, the particular advice not to set speeds before cocking the shutter is given so often that it must be true that you should not, or else...

 

[Mark Layne]

So do mine (well, the times are a little bit off)

Hasselblad wrote in their manuals that it is fine to change shutterspeed before or after cocking the shutter. And you can (though it is a bit awkward when the camera is not wound yet).

It however also is true that especially the 1600 F was a delicate machine, and that problems occured also with the shutterspeed setting mechanism.
But those problems were not 'partial' to certain modes of operation. They would occur anyway, no matter whether you heeded advice not to set shutterspeeds before winding, or not to set speeds counterclockwise, or not.

The Hasselblad 1000 F is less delicate and really does not mind what you do, unless what you do involves a crowbar or sledgehammer.

For Kievs however, the particular advice not to set speeds before cocking the shutter is given so often that it must be true that you should not, or else...

Folks are generally surprised that my 1600f works at all, and it is not abused but has seen some mileage

 

[Q.G.]

Folks are generally surprised that my 1600f works at all, and it is not abused but has seen some mileage

People tend to forget that these cameras - though certainly not without problems - were what established the Hasselblad reputation.
They are Hasselblads: why on earth would they not work after 60 years???

 

[bobwysiwyg]

You better use the genuine one, the shape of the corners and the curve of the end is very important to not to damage the inner light seal of the film magazine, not to mention the thickness, as bdial did.
And if you buy an used one, see that is is not bent, it might damage the lever which blocks the latch and the exposure release system.

Good luck with your wonderful 1000F!

Philippe

Thanks, I'm taking your advice. I have a darkslide on the way. Now maybe I can get a better look inside this thing.

 

[bobwysiwyg]

The dark slide arrived today, finally removed the magazine. Now I know why someone posted a warning about being careful with the magazine off, the shutter curtain is right there.

 

[Frank Szabo]

Just buy one from Calumet or B&H. Less than $20, I believe.

 

[bdial]

You can get a rear cover to protect the shutter if you want to leave the magazine off for some reason. Also, it's probably worthwhile to take note of David Odess's warnings about mounting the back. That is, don't snap the back on, but open the latch, seat the back then release the latch. Doing that way avoids stressing the feet that support the bottom of the magazine. See http://www.david-odess.com/faq.html#q16

 

[bobwysiwyg]

Thanks for the heads-up, though that's the way I've done it. By the way, Dave is the one I purchased the dark slide from. Very fast ship even with a personal check, he didn't wait for the check to clear or anything. In case anyone is interested, check his site for a good cause raffle he is running wherein you can choose to buy a ticket(s) for either a camera body or lens.