Hand coloring B&W prints

[John_A]

Anyone still doing this on a regular basis? I remember trying it in the photo classes at art school, but thats 20years ago or so..
Found this video from Afghanistan(!) of all places, where there still is a studio offering this service, or atleast was in 2012.
https://youtu.be/JDyqmUKjNdg

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[bvy]

Members eddie and Winger come to mind.

 

[pentaxuser]

Thanks for the link. Now that really is basic hand colouring in all senses but the end result is more effective that I had expected when he started the colouring

pentaxuser

 

[Kirks518]

He makes his own q-tips (cotton swabs), and he's also security!

 

[winger]

I've mostly stuck with coloring flowers, not people. He did a great job - obviously very experienced.
The first "kit" I got of Marshall's oils included loose cotton and little sticks to make my own swabs. I've done that a few times, but mostly use some make-up applicators that have tiny tips. They're double-ended and the other end is broad and flat and that works well to blend eye liner.

 

[removed account4]

hi johnA

im hand coloring bleached cyanotypes, beend doing it for about 4 years now. i use ink, crayon and watercolors.
i also color (with a mouses click, an extension of my hand ) black and white photographs made with glass, paper and metal negatives.

good luc with your project !

 

[gone]

I do this, but not regularly. It's fun to use watercolours just for a change, and use them on glossy paper instead of matte. It takes a completely different technique, much like painting on porcelain green ware. You get one shot at putting down a quick wipe of colour, then things go down hill quickly if that isn't done right. Unlike painting on the porcelain, you can't scratch it out, it's part of the print once it's in the emulsion. But that's what gives it such a different look. Best practiced on small prints first :[

The oils you can move around and blot out if there's a problem.

 

[bsdunek]

Not really regularly, but often. I really like hand colored photos. I use crayon, artist pencils and dyes.
Check http://brucecsdunekphotography.zenfolio.com/p685352261#h3f951a9e
There are several others on my web site.

 

[Jesper]

During one period I did it quite a lot using airbrush. This of course required extensive masking and a lot of work (took about a week to produce one 40x60cm picture) and it often failed. Only a few negatives worked since too much grey made the final result look dirty. I got the best results with Kodak Technichal pan and HC110 (it was a long time ago).

 

[eddie]

I do it often. It can add depth to a photograph, and I enjoy the hand-crafted aspect of it.
This one was half completed to show how it changes the black and white:

 

[darkosaric]

I do it often. It can add depth to a photograph, and I enjoy the hand-crafted aspect of it.
This one was half completed to show how it changes the black and white:
View attachment 121090

Nice one Eddie!

 

[doughowk]

I've started to do photo oils over Palladium prints on Bergger COT320. For the color you want, either mix it precisely or start light and build up. Once the oil color is on the paper, can't lighten with mineral spirits.

 

[ColColt]

Back in the 80's I had a crash course from a gal whose Mom use to make a living at hand coloring photos. I ordered the Marshall's Oil Paints and I think it came with Marlene or something like that, if you wanted to remove colors or a mistake you made. I had the best luck printing on Kodak's Ektalure R FB paper. It's a challenge getting the colors right-especially skin tones.

 

[John_A]

Thank for all the replies! Great to hear that hand-colouring not is a lost art.. Seeing some of the pictures has made me thinking and suddenly Ive got lots of ideas
Any advices on what papers and paint to use to achieve good results?

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[ColColt]

I don't know what's available today but Ektalure R or X was the paper to use for hand coloring back in the day. You need some fiber base paper that has a texture and be sure to fix and rise well. Best I recall you had to use a toner prior to coloring but memory fails me as to which I used...it for sure wasn't selenium or gold toner. I want to think sepia but not sure on that.

 

[Sirius Glass]

It would be nice if the people who have the knowledge and experience would write an article for APUG to post with the collective knowledge in one place. I have never done this so I am reading this thread as others are doing.

 

[Kirks518]

Freestyle photo sells the Arista coloring paints and pencils. AFAIK, it's he only currently available kit. There is a youtube video on them - https://youtu.be/T5s3llR_fKs

and their handcoloring offerings: http://www.freestylephoto.biz/category/57-Photo-Artistry/Handcoloring

 

[eddie]

Any advices on what papers and paint to use to achieve good results?

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My favorite (currently available) papers are Ilford MGIV matte, and the Ilford Warmtone semi-matte. Both have enough tooth to hold the oils, but not too much to cause the oils to bunch up. If you plan on doing skin tones, the Warmtone gives a nicer base for the paint. Art 300 has a nice texture which will make it look more like it's done on canvas. Liquid emulsions, on your choice of paper furthers your options. Really, any matte/semi matte fiber paper should work well.

Any oil paint works. Start with a cheap kit with a dozen, or so, colors. As your skills improve, you can use costlier paints with better pigments.

I use Q-Tips and cotton balls to apply the paint, and the cotton balls to even the paint out. I don't mask borders, as I find the paints build up at the taped area. Instead, I use a straightedge, and eraserstik style erasers to erase paint from unwanted areas, once the print is dry.

I usually recommend starting with pencil (any colored pencil works). The results are softer, but it's quicker. I rough the lead up with sandpaper before applying to large areas. Then, I use the pink eraserstiks to smooth the color tone. For sharper, deeper tones, I use a sharpened pencil point.
This one was done with one colored pencil, roughed up to apply, then smoothed with the eraser:


It's a lot of fun, but takes some time to master. It does add to how creative you can be. Good luck, and keep us posted on your progress.