Half Symmar S 150 and Half...

[carsten]

I already post it on PN.
I know it is not very polite, but it is a cry for help.
And a cry must be loud...

I have a problem. The rear element of my Symmar S has a scratch, short but deep right in the center of the lens. Do you think it is a solution to purchase a cheap DB mount symmar and switch the two rear elements? It will work with rodenstocks also (sironar or sinaron?) I mean make a lens half symmar and half sironar (or fujinon or nikkor or...?) Is it possible to mix lenses? Thank you!
PS or it is better to bring my rear lens to a service...

C

 

[Steve Hamley]

If you can find a cheap Symmar, DB or orterwise, swap both cells. Why would you swap only 1 cell and have potential problems from mis-matched cells? Then sell the scratched lens for whatever you can get to defray the cost of the new lens.

Steve

 

[removed account4]

hi there

haven't done it myself, but have heard / read of others doing this with scratched lenses ...
get a bottle of india ink ( or black sharpie ) and fill in scratch with black.
from what i understand, the scratch doesn't cover the whole back element so by filling it, you will be able to save your lens.

you might not have as bad a problem as it seems ... if you think the lens is trashed,try that before tossing it, you might be surprised.

good luck!
john

 

[photobum]

Before you go buying other lenses for parts I would do a very careful test of your lens as is.
I have a old Rodenstock convertible with a round scratch right in the center of the rear element. As a 210 it still is one of the sharpest lenses that I have.

I have a Nikkor 50mm f/2 with a chunk out of the coating. After 30 years it still makes wonderful slides with no hint of a problem. Trust me, this lens is ugly.

 

[rbarker]

If your Symmar-S was a focal length I didn't have, I'd tell you that it is worthless junk that should be sent to me for proper disposal. But, since I have a couple of 150s, I'll agree with John and photobum - test it "straight" first, and then try the India ink trick if necessary.

 

[vet173]

Johns solution is one that I have used. It works, I used flat black paint and a small brush. Cut the brush till you are down to the number of bristles you need. I think the paint will stick better and not wipe off.

 

[carsten]

Thank you very much.
Now I will test it.
What is the best way to have my lenses tested? What subject? What distance from it?
What color, dark or light?
C

 

[df cardwell]

Thank you very much.
Now I will test it.
What is the best way to have my lenses tested? What subject? What distance from it?
What color, dark or light?
C

Take normal picutres !

Assume it is OK. The obsession over perfect gear is a product of 'collectors'.

Be prepared to be pleasantly surprised.

 

[Dan Fromm]

Well, Carsten, when I try out a new lens I try to ask it how it will do when I shoot it as I usually do. That means at the apertures I normally use. I have a couple of semi-standard targets with some fairly fine detail, for-sure out-of-focus areas, and a good mix of light and dark. So I"ll typically shoot a new lens at f/11, f/16, f/22 at the fence at the end of my back yard. Distance ~ 40', 12 m. Also if a long lens at the stop sign at the end of my block. Distance ~ 1,000', 300 m. And then I look at the transparency or negative at 12x. I've done this more than once, so have reference images to compare with.

 

[dphphoto]

Usually scratches on the rear element are much less a problem than if they're on the front element. (See my post about my Caltar 210mm with "dirt" behind the front element.)
Try using the lens the way it is, and see if it's ok.
I may have to go the route of getting a DB mounted lens and swap out the cells. If you do it, swap both. No point in having mismatched cells. Dean