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I have an old bulk tin of bulk 100ft Tri-X, and since testing the two in the existing Lloyd daylight tanks seemed to come out completely opaque, I decided to swap them out and put in the Tri-X and see if I can least get the edge and see if it'll be semi-usable.
Since I only wanted to see the edge, I didn't have all my @home chemistry mixed (ie: no fixer, and just some stop concentrate). So I took a 20oz water bottle, filled most of it up, sucked up about 4ml of old HC-110 I have in an olive oil bottle with a pressure ceramic/rubber cork which has already started crystallizing at the bottom (I can re-heat it later if I really want to use it).
Cut off an end from the bulk roll and just stuck it in the bare empty tank, agitated it with water (temperature by feel), pre-wet it, then poured in the developer and kept it briskly agitated constantly for 6 minutes before throwing in the stop bath and checking.
Well I know the roll is usable (though not certain how it would exposed to the normal development conditions)... but to my surprise it seems like the bulk roll has been exposed to images, which I didn't expect seeing as it would normally be in a cartridge, not loaded en-bulk into a camera.
So... I guess I'll re-tin it and take it to school to develop a spool-worth later to see just how far the images go, though judging by the leader being blank, I suspect either 1) they spooled ahead and shot, or 2) that's the end of the roll and the whole rest of the roll has images.
The bulk roll, in original retail tin and box came from the basement of the Camera Center (in East Town, Grand Rapids, Michigan) where I used to work before it finally went out of business in late 2007.
Edit: The roll I had in the loader before tested to be Plus-X (though with just the same process as above the film is a strong even opaque grey, with charcoal black identifier on the edge), I'm guessing that's going to need a much longer development time to make it work, the opaque-ness seems too even to be fog.
Edit: #2, seeing as the only other bulk rolls I have is about 75ft of UltraTec (ISO 10, extremely high contrast ortho film), and some short ends of 2302 and 2366 (also ortho) I guess I have to bite the bullet and buy a new bulk roll of film. The professor I have for this semester doesn't mind me using old expired film as long as I test and compensate, so that's what I was hoping to do with the Tri-X.
Since I only wanted to see the edge, I didn't have all my @home chemistry mixed (ie: no fixer, and just some stop concentrate). So I took a 20oz water bottle, filled most of it up, sucked up about 4ml of old HC-110 I have in an olive oil bottle with a pressure ceramic/rubber cork which has already started crystallizing at the bottom (I can re-heat it later if I really want to use it).
Cut off an end from the bulk roll and just stuck it in the bare empty tank, agitated it with water (temperature by feel), pre-wet it, then poured in the developer and kept it briskly agitated constantly for 6 minutes before throwing in the stop bath and checking.
Well I know the roll is usable (though not certain how it would exposed to the normal development conditions)... but to my surprise it seems like the bulk roll has been exposed to images, which I didn't expect seeing as it would normally be in a cartridge, not loaded en-bulk into a camera.
So... I guess I'll re-tin it and take it to school to develop a spool-worth later to see just how far the images go, though judging by the leader being blank, I suspect either 1) they spooled ahead and shot, or 2) that's the end of the roll and the whole rest of the roll has images.
The bulk roll, in original retail tin and box came from the basement of the Camera Center (in East Town, Grand Rapids, Michigan) where I used to work before it finally went out of business in late 2007.
Edit: The roll I had in the loader before tested to be Plus-X (though with just the same process as above the film is a strong even opaque grey, with charcoal black identifier on the edge), I'm guessing that's going to need a much longer development time to make it work, the opaque-ness seems too even to be fog.
Edit: #2, seeing as the only other bulk rolls I have is about 75ft of UltraTec (ISO 10, extremely high contrast ortho film), and some short ends of 2302 and 2366 (also ortho) I guess I have to bite the bullet and buy a new bulk roll of film. The professor I have for this semester doesn't mind me using old expired film as long as I test and compensate, so that's what I was hoping to do with the Tri-X.
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