Hacks / shortcuts to position photo for drymounting?

[LarsAC]

Hello,

Just drymounted another two prints. I realized that I need quite long to position the print centered and parallel to the edges (and failed to do so on some early attempts).

Is there a quick way to achieve this? I know the method described in „Way beyond monochrome“, but that takes some time and positions images too far up for my taste.

Any hacks or aids I could use?

Lars

 

[David Allen]

Hi Lars,

do you always make the same sized prints and mount on the same sized matts or does it vary a lot? and do you present the photographs just on a matt or behind a passepartout? - this has some affect on which suggestions you will get.

Bests,

David.
www.dsallen.de

 

[LarsAC]

Hi David,

More or less - most prints are 9.5x12 (24x30cm) on mats of 12x16 or 16x20 and behind passepartout. Having a quicker solution for this combination would help, I can deal with the rest on a case-by-case basis.

Lars

 

[jeffreyg]

A simple low tech method is to position the print so that (facing you) the left edge of the print is flush with the left edge of the mat board, take a strip of paper and measure from the right edge of the print to the right edge of the mat board, fold the paper in half, mark lightly with a pencil that amount to center the print. Generally that would be the same for the top with slightly more space on the bottom. If you want equal top and bottom do the same as for side to side. Line up the print to your marks and tack it to the board. No math involved and it works for any size print.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

 

[Luckless]

A drafting board with sliding straight edge and set-angle can be a handy tool for adjusting alignments. (Some tinkering may be required to reliably work well with thicker stock materials with some designs)

If you are consistently doing the same set of sizes, then you can do things like taking the time to carefully measure and pre-mark your straight edge and tools with the correct measurements ahead of time. (If you're doing different sizes, then I like to use straight edges that are clear plastic, and make the 'mark' as a deep scratch in the plastic, then highlight the marks in unique colours - Red Set, Blue Set, Green Set, etc.)

Buying straight edges without scales/rulers marked on them are best if you're planning to use for pre-measured template setups - Your marks aren't hidden in a sea of existing ones, and if you're planning to always use it for measuring exactly 10 inches, then all the 'extra' ticks on the line between the two points are useless to you anyway.

 

[faberryman]

Is there some reason you prefer dry mounting to other methods of presenting your work?

 

[samcomet]

Hello,

Just drymounted another two prints. I realized that I need quite long to position the print centered and parallel to the edges (and failed to do so on some early attempts).

Is there a quick way to achieve this? I know the method described in „Way beyond monochrome“, but that takes some time and positions images too far up for my taste.

Any hacks or aids I could use?

Lars

I find that a zero centre ruler extremely helpful when I align prints for mounting. A zero centre has the zero point in the middle with the number lines running out left and right from the zero point.
cheers,
sam

 

[LarsAC]

The zero-center ruler sounds helpful, need to look further as my usual supply doesn‘t stock those.

I like drymounting as it properly flattens the print and I simply like seeing the full print in the passepartout rather than hiding the edges behind it. Just my own preference - like my choice of fibre base paper which I like an awful lot over RC.

From what @Luckless is suggesting, my starting point might be a really consistent size of prints (after cutting them) - here I am still off by a quarter or half an inch across several prints.

Lars

 

[faberryman]

You don't have to hide the edges. You can print with one inch borders (or more) and mat with a window a half inch larger that the image area all around.

 

[Alan9940]

For about 35 years I've used a unit made by Zone VI Studios called the "Drymount Jig". Basically, it's a piece of plywood with an embossed ruler along the bottom edge and a T-square with embossed ruler on it, too. The ruler extends out from zero on both sides. It's very easy and quick to center the print on the matboard, then square up along the straight edge of the T-square. If interested, do a web search and I'm sure you'll find some info about it and you could build one for yourself.

 

[samcomet]

For about 35 years I've used a unit made by Zone VI Studios called the "Drymount Jig". Basically, it's a piece of plywood with an embossed ruler along the bottom edge and a T-square with embossed ruler on it, too. The ruler extends out from zero on both sides. It's very easy and quick to center the print on the matboard, then square up along the straight edge of the T-square. If interested, do a web search and I'm sure you'll find some info about it and you could build one for yourself.

FWIW - I found an image and DID build one, Drymount Jig plus a Falcon Print Positioner from an image too. My homemade versions ARE quite useful too. I also found an interesting way of working out "Contemporary Centering", "European Centering" and "Oriental Centering" by someone named Reinhold Schable. A simple web search should turn up his other shortcuts. Some may find these useful ...
cheers,
Sam

 

[Marco Buonocore]

I had a thread some time ago where I detailed a jig I made for this purpose:

https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/zone-vi-dry-mount-jig.131068/

I still use it a lot today, although like anything, improvements could be made. Maybe something along these lines would be useful to you.

 

[LarsAC]

Thanks, Marco - your link is very helpful. I will plan on making such a jig, it looks very useful and is probably what I am looking for.

Lars

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

I made rulers of various widths out of mat board. The middle is zero. Print is centred along this ruler, then tacked. It's pretty quick.

 

[Marco Buonocore]

Hi Lars,

In retrospect I wish I would have chosen a steel bench tape like this: http://www.ustape.com/catalog/centerpoint-bench-tape/ . It would eliminate a step for me, in terms of the math. Bench tape is cheap and easy to work with. I recognize you'll probably be using metric rules, but I'm sure you'll be able to find something like that in Germany.

I can't recommend Russell Cottrell's optical print centering calculator enough - it's on his website at http://www.russellcottrell.com/photo/centering.htm . It makes the process of dry mounting accurately a breeze, if you pay attention to the "print position" data at the bottom of the calculator.

Good luck!

 

[paul ron]

A simple low tech method is to position the print so that (facing you) the left edge of the print is flush with the left edge of the mat board, take a strip of paper and measure from the right edge of the print to the right edge of the mat board, fold the paper in half, mark lightly with a pencil that amount to center the print. Generally that would be the same for the top with slightly more space on the bottom. If you want equal top and bottom do the same as for side to side. Line up the print to your marks and tack it to the board. No math involved and it works for any size print.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

+1

about the easiest way to do it... and doesnt require many brain cells.

 

[LarsAC]

Thanks again - bought some materials to build a jig like shown above. Took me some time to find these centered adhesive rulers, but they are ordered now. Will show what I have, when ready!

Lars

 

[Zelph]

Cut a window mat with an opening the same size as your image and overall size the same as your mat board. Put the print with dry mount tissue tacked on under the window mat, line the print up and firm it in place with the tacking iron. Then you can remove the overmat and finish dry mounting.

 

[paul ron]

^ ^
Yup, the best ways are that simple.

 

[Patrick Robert James]

Cut a window mat with an opening the same size as your image and overall size the same as your mat board. Put the print with dry mount tissue tacked on under the window mat, line the print up and firm it in place with the tacking iron. Then you can remove the overmat and finish dry mounting.

Occam's razor in action! Lol.

Exactly how I do it. I cut the mat then hinge it. Placing the print in the opening only takes a couple seconds. If you dry mount, tack it in place. I use photo corners, so I put a small weight on the print then place the photo corners.

I've always though print positioning guides just complicated things. Simple is better and faster.

 

[Todd Barlow]

I found this helpful

http://www.russellcottrell.com/photo/centering.htm

 

[jeffreyg]

re: the link from Todd Barlow. Essentially the technique I described. It has worked for me for over forty years simply, fast and accurate. It works with any size print and mounting board. No numbers , rulers or gadgets involved. You can even use a scrap strip of dry mount tissue that you trimmed with the print.

http://www.jeffreyglasser.com/

 

[LarsAC]

Finally built the jig and mounted several print this weekend. This is really speeding up the process. Many thanks for all suggestions.

I guess, standardizing print sizes could get me even closer.

Lars