Green paper toner

[Stuggi]

I remember reading somewhere about a toner that toned prints green, which I thought sounded really cool at the time, but I forgot to bookmark the site, and now I can't find any info about it anywhere.
If I remember correctly it required some really weird chemicals, so naturally I was instantly intrigued.

Anybody got any info on this?

 

[ann]

Fotospeed at one time I believe had a toner that would do that; we tested some in class and it wasn't something we repeated.

 

[AgentX]

I think there's a vanadium toner formula for that. Let me dig through an old magazine and I'll post back.

 

[removed account4]

i never used a green toner for that, but green reed dye purchased at a craft shop.
all my toned prints are dyed, not toned ...

michaels, ac moore, and others probably have lots of shades of green too

 

[paul ron]

I recently used Fomabrome VC 111 FB varient paper that printed with a green cast to it, not very appealing at all.

.

 

[Ian Grant]

I've used dye couplers for many colours including green, yo plech in a Ferri/bromide rehalogenting bleach the redevelop in colour dev with the relevant mix of couplers added.

Traditionally Green was formed by treating a blue toned image which wasn't too permenant or using a Vanadium toner like this one below::


Green Toner (BJP)

Part A
Potassium ferricyanide . . . . . . 2 gm
Water, distilled . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 cc

Part B
Vanadium chloride (stock solution) . 3 cc
Ferric ammonium citrate (green) . . . . . 1 gm
Sodium citrate neutral . . . . . . . . . . 25 gm)
Ammonium chloride . . . . . . 2 gm
Hydrochloric acid . . . . . . . .14 cc
Water, distilled . . . . . . . . . . 100 cc

The hydrochloric acid is the `pure strong' of 1.16 sp. gr. The stock vanadium solution is made by mixing 28gm of vanadium chloride, as purchased (Merck's syrupy), with 58 cc of strong hydrochloric acid and then adding distilled water to make 62 cc in all. In making up the B solution first add the hydrochloric acid to the vanadium solution. Then dissolve the ferric citrate, soda citrate, and ammonium chloride in 100 cc water and mix the two. Solution should be dull m ve blue; not green-until mixed with A.

Both A and B solutions will keep for months at least. To mix the toning solution take one part A with four parts water, and separately, one part B with few parts water. The two weak solutions when mixed together form the toner.
Print tone in from four to eight minutes. Rock constantly, then wash in five changes of water, each of two minutes: give a bath of hydrochloric acid (one part in fifty parts of water) for two minutes, and finally wash for fifteen minutes in seven or eight changes of water.

Prints should be of the ordinary depth. The green tone is permanent.

Ian

 

[Bill Burk]

Berg makes a green toner. I used their blue toner a few weeks ago and was blown away at the simplicity and dramatic color change. But it felt fake. So I assume since it is dye based it is not an archival toner.

 

[Bob Carnie]

Your the man Ian I will give this a try.
QUOTE=Ian Grant;1274003]I've used dye couplers for many colours including green, yo plech in a Ferri/bromide rehalogenting bleach the redevelop in colour dev with the relevant mix of couplers added.

Traditionally Green was formed by treating a blue toned image which wasn't too permenant or using a Vanadium toner like this one below::


Green Toner (BJP)

Part A
Potassium ferricyanide . . . . . . 2 gm
Water, distilled . . . . . . . . . . . . 100 cc

Part B
Vanadium chloride (stock solution) . 3 cc
Ferric ammonium citrate (green) . . . . . 1 gm
Sodium citrate neutral . . . . . . . . . . 25 gm)
Ammonium chloride . . . . . . 2 gm
Hydrochloric acid . . . . . . . .14 cc
Water, distilled . . . . . . . . . . 100 cc

The hydrochloric acid is the `pure strong' of 1.16 sp. gr. The stock vanadium solution is made by mixing 28gm of vanadium chloride, as purchased (Merck's syrupy), with 58 cc of strong hydrochloric acid and then adding distilled water to make 62 cc in all. In making up the B solution first add the hydrochloric acid to the vanadium solution. Then dissolve the ferric citrate, soda citrate, and ammonium chloride in 100 cc water and mix the two. Solution should be dull m ve blue; not green-until mixed with A.

Both A and B solutions will keep for months at least. To mix the toning solution take one part A with four parts water, and separately, one part B with few parts water. The two weak solutions when mixed together form the toner.
Print tone in from four to eight minutes. Rock constantly, then wash in five changes of water, each of two minutes: give a bath of hydrochloric acid (one part in fifty parts of water) for two minutes, and finally wash for fifteen minutes in seven or eight changes of water.

Prints should be of the ordinary depth. The green tone is permanent.

Ian[/QUOTE]

 

[ann]

Ah, wrong about fotospeed, it was Berg, but the results still ugly.

 

[Stuggi]

Yeah, I think it was the vanadium toner I read about at some site, if I remember correctly they had a recipe for a uranium toner as well. :|

 

[Marco B]

Wilco Oelen has made an excellent document on a Green type toner based on Vanadium. Actually, he seems to have devised a novel formula that doesn't have some of the drawbacks of the normal Vanadium toner. In most formulations, according to his document, Vanadium Chloride is used. This is difficult to get. Wilco developed a formulation based on Vanadium Pentoxide, a inexpensive compound used in colouring pottery, and thus easily obtainable, see the links to suppliers in the PDF document.

The document is also a nice introduction to the chemistry of metal ferrocyanide replacement toners (e.g. iron blue, copper red toner etc.), so well worth reading.

Wilco's website with more photography and science related stuff:
http://oelen.net/science/

 

[Vlad Soare]

I've found the formula below in Tim Rudman's book. It looks somewhat finicky, but at least it doesn't require any vanadium compounds.

Solution A:
Potassium ferricyanide: 40g
Water: 1l
Ammonia (sol. 25-29%): 15ml

Solution B:
Ferric ammonium citrate: 17g
Water: 1l
Hydrochloric acid (concentrated): 40ml

Solution C:
Sodium sulfide: 2g
Water: 1l
Hidrochloric acid (concentrated): 10ml

The hydrochloric acid in solution C must be added immediately before use.
Make the prints 20% darker than normal, and slightly lower in contrast.
Bleach the print in solution A, wash, tone in solution B until the deepest shadows are toned, wash, tone in solution C until the desired shade of green is achieved, wash.