Green light and inspection

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Oh, I agree. But in the same token, a lot of the discussions here are of that nature - interesting but often times not adding much, if any, value to the actual practice of darkroom photography.

I find that by keeping things as simple as possible, I reach higher and farther with my photography. But it's still interesting to learn, even about things I will never use. It helps paint a bigger picture, and better understand the things I do use, and it throws perspective on those processes that I'm tempted to try, as well as their actual utility.

And cool factor.
 

Gerald C Koch

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True desensitizing dyes greatly reduce an emulsions sensitivity to light . Such dyes as scarlet N and pinakryptol yellow allow a much brighter safelight illumination. So if oxidation products do act as desensitizers their effect is rather small by comparison. The level of illumination used for this development technique is probably too low to have any visible effect on the film provided that exposure is short.
 
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Shawn Dougherty

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Thanks, Michael, I'll have to dig up that thread. When spinning my homemade BTZS style tubes I use a small red safelight behind me when I take off the lids and transfer the then uncapped tubes into a tray of fixer. I've done it with and without the safelight and can see no difference whatsoever...
 

Gerald C Koch

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I did a brief search on people who have used a desensitizer. One user with pinakryptol yellow said it allowed the safelight (with a 15w bulb) to be on continuously and at a distance of 2 feet without fogging.
 
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removed account4

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i use the green light often
with caffenol-130
i mean sumatranol-c-130
works like a charm
 

cowanw

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Gerald, does that mean you are supposed to use transmitted light from the base side? I have been looking at the base side with reflected light. Is that wrong?
 

cliveh

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When Gerald mentioned this, I thought how can you view other than reflected light from both sides until cleared with fix.
 

Bill Burk

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I'll also throw in my white elephant for the fun of it: why anyone would bother in this day and age with DBI versus time/temperature control is beyond me.

My favorite DBI negative is the indoor swimming pool at Hearst Castle... I KNEW it was going to be a thin neg when I shot it. When I saw it in the tray, still thin after the prescribed time, I kept it in as long as I possibly could... about 4 more minutes till my wife said we absolutely positively HAD to go. Otherwise I would have left it in longer. Can't remember the occasion. The negative still is a bit thin for my taste, but makes a beautiful dark print.
 

Gerald C Koch

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Gerald, does that mean you are supposed to use transmitted light from the base side? I have been looking at the base side with reflected light. Is that wrong?

No, the emulsion is opaque so you must use reflected light. But to see if development is near completion you have to look at the base side.

Development by inspection does not work very well if the film or its base contain a lot of dyes. So the newer t-grain films are a problem.

Let me say this again: for most people and for most situations the time/temperature method of development is much easier and more accurate. Development by inspection requires a good deal of experience to get it right. I know that it has a certain mystique for some people but that in itself is not a sufficient reason to use it. I used it many years ago when light meters were an uncommon luxury. I would have preferred not to.
 
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Sirius Glass

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When I saw it in the tray, still thin after the prescribed time, I kept it in as long as I possibly could... about 4 more minutes till my wife said we absolutely positively HAD to go.

Lessons Learned when I was still a child "Never stand in the way of a man [or woman] on the way to the bathroom."
 
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I'm not good at it. But I'd imagine it's like cooking. Some recipes recommend a cook time, then finish the dish by looking at the doneness. Finishing the dish by eye. But before then, you don't have to peek. I would only inspect the film's highlights the last few minutes of the development cycle.
 

cliveh

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This is very good advice. I have only developed by inspection about twice for the experience of doing so and can't think of a situation where I would need to do this again.
 

Gerald C Koch

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I would like to add that in order to use this method the eye must be fully adapted to the dark. For the average individual this is about 30 min of sitting in the dark before one can start. This can be incredibly boring. Some good music helps but still I would prefer to be doing something else.
 
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Film. It's what we're shooting.
 
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