Green Holga Film?

[ChristopherCoy]

Am I developing Holga brand film wrong, or does it always give off neon green stuff?

I just developed my second roll of Holga brand 400 film that I shot in my Holga and when I poured the developer out it was neon green. And it was just as neon green as it was when I did the first roll about 6 months ago. Even the stop bath came out greenish rather then the normal yellowish color.

 

[pdexposures]

Anti-Halation layer. Tmax is notoriously purple.

You probably didn't get it all out when you poured in the stop bath so it picked up that color as well.

 

[ChristopherCoy]

Thanks. I've got 6 rolls of TriX-400 120 done, 1 roll of TriX-400 35mm, and 1 roll of Holga done tonight. They are hanging up to dry now. I haven't seen that much purple from TriX but that green in the Holga was unmistakable.

 

[summicron1]

holga film is obviously the same as arista edu, which is probably the same as the Foma since that is the factory where it is made -- Arista edu also gives off that green color when you dump the developer out, and more when you dump the stop bath out, so be sure to rinse it well between the stop bath and fix or it will turn your fixer green too.

it is the anti-hilation layer. No biggie. Very colorful. But if you want the same film for less money, buy arista edu.

 

[R.Gould]

Sounds like the film is re branded foma, the green colour is simply the anti halation layer, no problem, I have developed foma in d76 stock and the developer turns a lovely shade of green, but then developed a roll of tri x in the same stock and it has made no difference.
Richard

 

[johnielvis]

holga film is obviously the same as arista edu, which is probably the same as the Foma since that is the factory where it is made -- Arista edu also gives off that green color when you dump the developer out, and more when you dump the stop bath out, so be sure to rinse it well between the stop bath and fix or it will turn your fixer green too.

it is the anti-hilation layer. No biggie. Very colorful. But if you want the same film for less money, buy arista edu.

OH NO! Better watch that!

Every time I mention something about preventing dye color in fixing by pre-soak/post-soak/whatever, I get scolded because the color is supposed to not do anything harmful, and, therefore, I believe, the prevailing attitude is that the fixer MUST get colored because removing the dye would be an unnecessary step in the process. In orther words, "you're doing it wrong".

I still do what I can to remove the dyes before they hit the fix. Just to thumb my nose at society.

You will never catch me at it either. I'm very sneaky and cover my evidence. If you ask why my fixer is clear, I'll just state that it was just mixed and never used. HA HA!!

 

[Rick A]

My developing routine includes a 3 minute pre soak to remove the anti halation dye as well as help eliminate the possibility of air bells on the film. It also tempers the film and developing tank/reel and helps maintain constant temperture.

 

[charlief64]

I agree with Rick A. I always pre soak for the same reasons.
charlie

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

The discussion on pre-soak / not pre-soak will never get settled. Please don't open that can of worms.

Many people have fine results with pre-soak. Many other people have fine results without it.

Either way, the least of your concern are the dyes incorporated in the film. Whether it gets washed away prior to developing, during, or after, has very little effect on the actual film developing process. Just do it the same way every time, and STOP worrying about the color.

Tri-X will not have much color in a pre-soak, while TMax will. Ilford comes out clear, Foma/Holga/Arista.EDU Ultra comes out turquoise. Just don't worry about it. It's perfectly natural.

- Thomas

 

[E. von Hoegh]

I happen to like the various colors I see in the presoak water. Too bad I can't see it when I develop it in trays.

 

[ChristopherCoy]

The discussion on pre-soak / not pre-soak will never get settled. Please don't open that can of worms.

Many people have fine results with pre-soak. Many other people have fine results without it.

I did two rolls of TriX400 120 last night without a presoak. Then I came to APUG between rolls to do a bit of research on the purple tint to the negatives. I found a post that mentioned presoaking, so I tried it. That initial dump of water came out navy blue. I finished developing as normal, and those negatives came out exactly like the ones that did not have a presoak. My ignorant eye can't tell the difference, and I've now forgotten which roll was presoaked.

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

I did two rolls of TriX400 120 last night without a presoak. Then I came to APUG between rolls to do a bit of research on the purple tint to the negatives. I found a post that mentioned presoaking, so I tried it. That initial dump of water came out navy blue. I finished developing as normal, and those negatives came out exactly like the ones that did not have a presoak. My ignorant eye can't tell the difference, and I've now forgotten which roll was presoaked.

That's my experience also. I don't wish to make assumptions, based on my highly non-scientific observations, but I can't tell a damned bit of difference in my prints, so have written the presoak off as academic.
Esteemed people with infinitely more experience than I have made cases for and against it, and everybody is probably right to some extent. But, until I can see a difference in my prints, I really don't care. So there...