Graphic Synchro Compur Iris Repair...Feasible Or "Don't Even Think About It"

[n2mf]

This shutter is in great shape overall with very good Ektar 127mm elements and a fully working shutter...However, the iris is jammed somehow and only partially opens or closes.

I'm pretty good with fixing things and feel like if I knew how to disassemble this, I could realign the iris.

Is this feasible Or "Don't Even Think About It". I figure paying to have it repaired would not be cost effective.

Your thoughts and or help is appreciated.

 

[paul_c5x4]

Well, if it is already buggered (to use the technical term), pulling it apart is hardly going to make it worse. There are quite a few exploded diagrams & images of most Compur shutters out there, so you have plenty of material to refer to.

I've reassembled two or three shutters, including one that was just a box of bits when I got it - With patience, a few basic tools, and a magnifying glass (one on a goose-neck is best), it can be done.

 

[n2mf]

Well, if it is already buggered (to use the technical term), pulling it apart is hardly going to make it worse. There are quite a few exploded diagrams & images of most Compur shutters out there, so you have plenty of material to refer to.

I've reassembled two or three shutters, including one that was just a box of bits when I got it - With patience, a few basic tools, and a magnifying glass (one on a goose-neck is best), it can be done.

That's what I'm thinking.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Before you pull it apart, remove the optics and sprinkle powered lock graphite on the iris and shutter, both sides. Then work then until they free up. It took me about 150 shutter firings to get my lens back to normal. 400 to 500 shutter firings are not usual. This does not require taking the lens apart. Clean off the graphite before reassembling.

 

[BrianShaw]

Graphite... please don't.

But please make sure you add tweezers and a lot of patience to your tool kit for fixing the iris.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Graphite... please don't.

But please make sure you add tweezers and a lot of patience to your tool kit for fixing the iris.

This is what Bert Saunders, a 26 year repairman for Graflex and Graphic cameras, recommended that I do when he was still active at www.graflex.org. I bought his best personal Graflex Model D and the Pacemaker Speed Graphic from him.

He recommended using graphite before taking the steps to clean the iris and shutters. I have always found his advice to be good.

 

[shutterfinger]

The Synchro-Compur is a moderately difficult shutter to service. http://www.suaudeau.eu/memo/rep/Compur-shutter-repair-manual.html download each section.
All shutters disassemble from the top and the aperture is at the bottom.
Finally something that works better than Extra Fine Powdered Graphite http://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Non-St...d=1423195160&sr=8-1&keywords=teflon+lubricant

 

[Sirius Glass]

The Synchro-Compur is a moderately difficult shutter to service. http://www.suaudeau.eu/memo/rep/Compur-shutter-repair-manual.html download each section.
All shutters disassemble from the top and the aperture is at the bottom.
Finally something that works better than Extra Fine Powdered Graphite http://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Non-St...d=1423195160&sr=8-1&keywords=teflon+lubricant

Thanks, a good idea!

 

[n2mf]

Before you pull it apart, remove the optics and sprinkle powered lock graphite on the iris and shutter, both sides. Then work then until they free up. It took me about 150 shutter firings to get my lens back to normal. 400 to 500 shutter firings are not usual. This does not require taking the lens apart. Clean off the graphite before reassembling.

Thank you.

 

[n2mf]

The Synchro-Compur is a moderately difficult shutter to service. http://www.suaudeau.eu/memo/rep/Compur-shutter-repair-manual.html download each section.
All shutters disassemble from the top and the aperture is at the bottom.
Finally something that works better than Extra Fine Powdered Graphite http://www.amazon.com/DuPont-Non-St...d=1423195160&sr=8-1&keywords=teflon+lubricant

Thank you. However, I might chicken out. I see that at least one blade seems dislodged and there's a slight kink in one. Or, since the shutter probably has no value in this condition...I could take it apart just to learn something. I hate it though, the shutter itself fires and works great.

 

[BrianShaw]

Sirius... I know Tomsey suggested graphite and thought he was the only person on the face of the earth that advocated that technique. So there are two of like mind... I had no idea. Both are well respected, but...

Graphite is for locks, not cameras!

 

[shutterfinger]

A pivot pin is broken off 1 blade and it being out of position is causing another blade to buckle. The aperture might open without any further damage. Your only positive here is the blades are made of thin metal, not paper. The pin may be the stamped pin hole edges folded up/down 90° or the pin may be a short piece of brass making it repairable.
The shutter is likely a CN-1307-000, Synchro-Compur 1-MX or one of its many variations. Take pictures as you remove the parts to make reassembly easier.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Thank you. However, I might chicken out. I see that at least one blade seems dislodged and there's a slight kink in one. Or, since the shutter probably has no value in this condition...I could take it apart just to learn something. I hate it though, the shutter itself fires and works great.

Broken pin. Send it to Carol http://www.flutotscamerarepair.com/ Her prices are low but there maybe a well worth it wait.

 

[Sirius Glass]

Sirius... I know Tomsey suggested graphite and thought he was the only person on the face of the earth that advocated that technique. So there are two of like mind... I had no idea. Both are well respected, but...

Graphite is for locks, not cameras!

No lox is for bagels!

 

[n2mf]

A pivot pin is broken off 1 blade and it being out of position is causing another blade to buckle. The aperture might open without any further damage. Your only positive here is the blades are made of thin metal, not paper. The pin may be the stamped pin hole edges folded up/down 90° or the pin may be a short piece of brass making it repairable.
The shutter is likely a CN-1307-000, Synchro-Compur 1-MX or one of its many variations. Take pictures as you remove the parts to make reassembly easier.

Excellent info...Thanks!

 

[shutterfinger]

Similar Shutter just opened for a CLA.

 

[paul_c5x4]

The shutter is likely a CN-1307-000, Synchro-Compur 1-MX or one of its many variations. Take pictures as you remove the parts to make reassembly easier.

If it is a CN-1307-000, exploded diagrams can be found here - http://benoit.suaudeau.perso.neuf.fr/manuels_rep/obturateurs/compur-repair/04-42.html

 

[outwest]

If you are not very very patient and have a delicate touch, send it to Flutots. Replacing the aperture blades can be a very trying and much repeated experience.

 

[n2mf]

If you are not very very patient and have a delicate touch, send it to Flutots. Replacing the aperture blades can be a very trying and much repeated experience.

I'm a good craftsman and have always been good with my hands and eye hand coordination. However, this is a very nice shutter and I don't want to get inside the thing and realize I don't have the parts to fix it. So, I've sent an email to Flutot's regarding having it repaired.

 

[n2mf]

UPDATE:

Sent the shutter off for repair& CLA and just got it back the other day. All fixed. The only thing I'm questioning now, is, the report that came back from the repair shop listed the shutter speeds and what they tested out at. 400 was 250 and 200 was 150. The rest are listed as right on the money. Is it normal for the higher speeds to be that different after a CLA? And, I didn't ask them, and maybe I should, but, couldn't they be adjusted to be closer to what they are supposed to be?

 

[Sirius Glass]

Sometimes with older shutters some of the speeds cannot be exactly calibrated. Your 200th is off by 25% which is not bad. Your 400th is almost a stop off. So you have a fast 200 and a slow 200. With exercise the 400 may improve.

 

[shutterfinger]

Speeds above 1/100-1/125 are controlled by a booster spring. You have a very good shutter. Go do some critical exposure test at a tested accurate speed and the two fast speeds using equivalent exposures of the scene which should contain whites in bright light and medium dark shadows then compare the results. Use 400 speed B&W film at box speed and processing time/temperature. This will give you a good starting point to adjust from if the results are not satisfactory.

 

[n2mf]

Speeds above 1/100-1/125 are controlled by a booster spring. You have a very good shutter. Go do some critical exposure test at a tested accurate speed and the two fast speeds using equivalent exposures of the scene which should contain whites in bright light and medium dark shadows then compare the results. Use 400 speed B&W film at box speed and processing time/temperature. This will give you a good starting point to adjust from if the results are not satisfactory.

Thank you.