I think this may be the explanation for any difference you see.
Another thing is that it is almost impossible to judge just from prints when you are doing the propeller head stuff. The reason is that all these combinations have an effect on the speed of the print too. So it is quite easy to mistake what is really a speed change for a contrast change.
For instance, if whatever mix you use slows the print speed, the highlights will be lighter, naturally, and what was 100% black in the shadow areas will still be dark and probably appear black, and the almost-dark areas will be slightly lighter. This may appear to be a contrast change, but it is really a speed change. It is very difficult to judge from a print alone because there are too many 'moving parts'.
For those so inclined, the only really accurate way to do this is to spend a Saturday morning printing some step wedges and then slapping them on a reflection densitometer.
Another thing is that it is almost impossible to judge just from prints when you are doing the propeller head stuff. The reason is that all these combinations have an effect on the speed of the print too. So it is quite easy to mistake what is really a speed change for a contrast change.
For instance, if whatever mix you use slows the print speed, the highlights will be lighter, naturally, and what was 100% black in the shadow areas will still be dark and probably appear black, and the almost-dark areas will be slightly lighter. This may appear to be a contrast change, but it is really a speed change. It is very difficult to judge from a print alone because there are too many 'moving parts'.
For those so inclined, the only really accurate way to do this is to spend a Saturday morning printing some step wedges and then slapping them on a reflection densitometer.