Great - I’ll give that a try. Hoping it’s that easy. Thanks!It could be because the RH in your work space is too low. Try soaking the paper in distilled water for a few minutes. Hang to dry. Then coat. Let it air dry for about 20 min. I use the same paper, by the way. You could also put a drop or two of Tween-20, or even Photo-Flo in the sensitiser, to help it sink into the paper a bit.
Great - I’ll give that a try. Hoping it’s that easy. Thanks!
ps - I just checked out your Flickr feed and see you have done some gum over kallitype. That’s my next phase once I get the kallitype process figured out.
Yes - I’ve done some gum over cyanotype - that gives a totally different look compared to just gum. If the moisture doesn’t help, I’ll mix a new batch of ferric oxalate. Will let you know. Thanks again!And gum over cyanotypes. Loads of fun! Hope that solves the problem. Is not, it may be your ferric oxalate mixture gone bad...
Thanks, but this feels like an issue with grain rather than paper texture. I think Andrew has pointed me in the right direction - will be able to confirm later today.I can’t help you with kallitypes, but Platinum Rag while relatively smooth still has some texture which may cause it to look grainy.
Uhm...convince me. Looks like you're using digital/inkjet negatives. For me those have always produced 'grainy' prints (in fact artifacts derived from the inkjet dithering). Print at a larger size so you have a longer viewing distance; it becomes less of a problem.The grain is not present in my negatives
Uhm...convince me. Looks like you're using digital/inkjet negatives. For me those have always produced 'grainy' prints (in fact artifacts derived from the inkjet dithering). Print at a larger size so you have a longer viewing distance; it becomes less of a problem.
In any case I'd recommend making a few test prints from real negatives (even a strip of 35mm will do!) to eliminate this possible (probable...) cause.
Nothing special really. Happens all the time. Especially if the print is on the small side.If you can reproduce dithering pattern from negative printed on a decent inkjet printer on a hand-coated, alternative process print on a watercolor paper and then digitized on a scanner and presented as a size-limited jpg, that would be great feat indeed
This is very much out of the realm of this sub-forum. I am not sure we can discuss this freely here.... could start a new thread if interested. But what is "grain" in these pictures, where is "dithering" pattern? Kind of hard to judge. (For that matter, I am not sure what grain OP is talking about either, the example looks fairly normal to me.) In the cyanotype example, I can see some horizontal pattern that is most likely due to misaligned nozzles, which is fairly easy to fix. I can't see the normal printer-applied dithering pattern, most at 1200 dpi or better nowadays, with naked eye on a glossy inkjet media, let alone reproduced on a contact print. Dithering is used to actually smoothen the tonal transitions, not make them coarse. Perhaps you are talking about something else.Nothing special really. Happens all the time. Especially if the print is on the small side.
Inkjet grain shows clearly in alt. process prints unless pretty nifty/advanced inkjet materials & methods are used; e.g. piezography I'm told should give smooth results.
In any case I'm talking about inkjet artifacts that are exacerbated by the fact that transparency media don't have the bleed that consumer inkjet heads & inks are optimized for.Perhaps you are talking about something else.
The horizontal pattern in that print is actually the paper texture of that particular paper stock. I'm talking about the grainy rendition of larger surfaces of similar/identical tones.In the cyanotype example, I can see some horizontal pattern that is most likely due to misaligned nozzles
Not quite sure what your case is really, it seems you're mostly sidestepping the issue or trying to talk your way out of it or something. I don't care really, my suggestion remains for OP to try a silver negative before being sent on a goose chase of all kinds of arcane issues.
The thread should have been started in one of the hybrid sections anyway since the OP alluded the use of a digital negative. I wish though they would merge all these different sub-forums into one for all things alternative – analog, digital or everything in-between. Most other sites treat it as such.
I see there has been quite a bit of discussion since my original post. I was indeed using a digital negative. I am used to a certain amount of grain in my cyanotype and platinum prints, but not to the extent I was seeing here. Separately someone suggested that my development time was too short. I was developing 2 minutes in sodium citrate. I increased the development time to 10 minutes, and my prints are much smoother now...still a little grain, but a much more reasonable amount.
Thanks, everyone, for your comments.
Ah - thanks for the context! And I hope I didn’t come across as complaining, that certainly wasn’t my intent.I have no problems with the digital negative references here. If anyone wants to really dive deep into how to make better digital negatives, we would ask that they move that discussion to a sub-forum that is dedicated to that subject. If they wished to discuss making enlarged internegatives, this is a good sub-forum for that.
The divisions here arise because of some historical factors within APUG - the site's predecessor. If you were around when those were happening, they would make a lot of sense to you.
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