Graflex users... check loose hardware periodically?

While trying to show off my Speed Graphics to an old-timer at holiday gathering, last month, I realized, the blade spring part of the front standard lock mechanism had come off!

Luckily the parts, blade, threaded nut, just fell in the bed between the rails, and the top part of the lock did not come apart -- the service manual shows two metal balls functioning as detents, under the lock.

So, on an older system like this, how often does one have to go over and check for fastener tightness?

I would get some low strength Loctite 222 thread locker and spend a day reseating screws with the adhesive. It's strong enough to keep the screw from vibrating out, but will allow easy removal if you need to make repairs.

I thought the locktite was 242 blue. Clear nail polish works well also. While its apart put some fresh grease on the ball bearings and wipe the slides with grease leaving only a trace. The screw determines the locking of the standard and the nut locks the screw setting.

Loctite 222 is just a bit weaker.

I prefer it on cameras I think have a tendency to be serviced or adjusted more often.

I can't say that I've ever had a problem with anything coming loose on mine. But it is my most used camera, so perhaps the fact that I'm using it so much, and adjusting everything, would be the reason why.

I've also used super glue and contact cement as thread locker before on other stuff. They both work pretty well. Super glue can be dissolved in acetone, should you need it to come out, and contact cement in alcohol. They both can be broken with a stiff turn of the wrench if you don't go crazy with the application. If you're worried about loosing the nuts or screws, but don't want to lock them in place, drop a dab of glue on the other side of the threads, so if the bold tries to unscrew itself, it'll jam against the glue, clogging up the threads, before it full backs out. That way you can still adjust it, without having to worry about loosing anything. Actual thread locker works better, but if you don't already have a bottle on hand and don't want to run to the store to find some, I've found these to work more than well enough for light duty applications like this. Now if you're going to be working on something like a clothes dryer or automobile that sees heavy vibrations or has heavy parts, then I wouldn't cheap out, and get the right stuff.

its funny you just posted this. i noticed the other day when i was using an old graflex 3A it was missing something and i still haven't figured what it was LOL

jnantz said:

i noticed the other day when i was using an old graflex 3A it was missing something and i still haven't figured what it was LOL

Click to expand...

Maybe this will help.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1sPJkp-MdghSm5xZW9nMVlfOFE/view?usp=sharing

I try to remember to check screws and such every month or two, and typically combine it with general gear cleaning to try and keep the crud and such from building up to too great of levels.

For example, my C330's have a habit of the studs on the viewfinder slowly working worryingly loose, and I have a habit of walking by bottles of Loctite when I'm at the store...

shutterfinger said:

Maybe this will help.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1sPJkp-MdghSm5xZW9nMVlfOFE/view?usp=sharing

Click to expand...

This is very useful! How does the shutter in the 3A compare with something like my RB Tele? I see the cameras have a very different form but they are fairly contemporary.

Thanks.

The main difference between the 3A and the Tele is the accessibility and curtain size.
Use this for the Tele. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1sPJkp-MdghRkRId1EwT0dpNkk/view?usp=sharing

shutterfinger said:

The main difference between the 3A and the Tele is the accessibility and curtain size.
Use this for the Tele. https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B1sPJkp-MdghRkRId1EwT0dpNkk/view?usp=sharing

Click to expand...

Thank you very much!