Good first MF camera?

panastasia · May 8, 2008

Steve Smith said:
That's exactly the reason why I bought my RB67. To suit my LPL6700 enlarger.

Steve.

This is also one of my reasons for buying an RB (23C11 enlarger). Other reasons were similar to what others mentioned about this camera, especially flash sync at any shutter speed and the large rectangular format (a square 6x6 is really a 6x4.5 unless you like square pictures - sometimes I do, but rarely).

I should mention that I'm a lightweight backpacker fanatic, so the weight of the RB was bothersome. I overcame this by realizing that the RB satisfied so many of my needs that the weight was secondary, and I could leave other things behind to allow for the RB weight (and space). It would still be my first choice today, no regrets. A comparable 6x7 Bronica was my second choice but tilting the camera for landscapes seemed awkward.

I sometimes carry a lightweight (3 lbs) MF view camera when weight is the big issue.

Paul

dynachrome · May 8, 2008

Good First MF Camera

I had a Yachica Mat 124G years ago. It has an excellent lens but mechanically it isn't as sturdy as it could be. I have a late model non-metered Minolta Autocord which is much better built but its lens isn't any better than the one on the 124G. Now I also have Bronica ETR, SQ and GS series cameras. The SQ series cameras and especialy the SQ-A are very reasonable priced. The popular lenses, 50/80/150, are easy to find at a good price. It's true that if you make mostly 8X10 proportion prints you are using about the same area of the negative as the 6X45 format. The advantage is that you can crop vertically or horizontally without tilting the camera. If you make square prints then you have even more area to work with. In historical terms the Hasselblad equipment is a very good buy now but it's still much more expensive than Bronica equipment. I would have to guess that much of the Hasselblad equipment will outlive the availability of film and processing at least where color is concerned. An SQ-A with a waist level finder, back and 80/2.8 lens is easy to hand hold. If you want to use a prism finder then the Speed Grip is handy.

A Hasselblad 500C/M or later model is so much more expensive than an SQ-A that you may only be able to afford an 80mm lens. It's true that you can use extension tubes with the 80 for closer shooting but if you're stuck with just one lens then the advantage over using a TLR is reduced. Of the three Bronica formats I have I use the square one most often. If I know I will need to make a print 11X14 or larger I will use the GS-1 but it's larger and heavier.

dynachrome · May 8, 2008

Make that reasonably priced.

phenix · May 9, 2008

When I shoot color film I did it only in good light, and if it wasn't good enough I used one or more flashes. Now, that I moved almost exclusively to B&W, I use only available light. Because of that, I chosed to work more and more with RFs instead of SLRs. Why? Because of the leaf shooter and the lake of mirror on my fix lens RFs, allowing me to shoot hand held at speeds 3-4x longer.

Now, think at that:
In MF, the mirror and the shooter courtain are far havier than the mirror and the courtain in 35mm, asking for a shorter shooter speed. Add to that the lens which is longer, and will shorten you the shooter speed with another stop.
What would you do now in low light, if you won't like to use flashes or bulbs, let say because you chosed to shoot B&W in available light?
- Will you use a 400-800 ISO film?
- Will you use a tripod and the mirror lock-up option of your MF SLR?
- Or will you prefer a TLR, who has a leaf shooter and a fixed mirror, allowing you to increase the shooting speed up to 1/30 and even 1/15 hand held, without shaking?

In B&W the ability to shoot in available light is critical. The camera you chose can help or, on the contrary, embarase you.

Nick Zentena · May 9, 2008

Lots of MF cameras have leaf shutters.

You can use faster film with bigger cameras and it's okay. Less enlargement.

So I don't see either issue being a big one.

boncey · May 9, 2008

I love my Yashica Mat 124G but sometimes dream of moving up to something that can take different lenses and/or focus closer.
I love the square format though.

It's a great introduction to the world of Medium Format as you can get them fairly cheap.

pschwart · May 9, 2008

Stevopedia said:
Hello everyone,

At some point in the future I'd like to move up to medium format, and I was wondering what cameras you would suggest for a brand-new MF shooter. I've been considering the Rolleicord V or Pentax 645. Would either be a good choice? If not, what would you suggest?

-Stephen

The Rolleicord V is a *great* camera. The build quality is exceptional, it is light yet rugged, simple to operate, quiet in operation, will provide negatives of stunning quality, and can be had quite cheaply. If you get a Vb you can use an eye-level finder for a different perspective. You can even shoot 645 and 35mm. There were 220 mods for Rolleis, but why bother? 120 is actually more convenient to use -- less prone to edge fogging, easier to process, and one roll fits on a single page for storage and proofing. I can shoot 220, but I never do.

phenix · May 9, 2008

boncey said:
I love my Yashica Mat 124G but sometimes dream of moving up to something that can take different lenses and/or focus closer.
I love the square format though.

There are 3 close-up attachments in B30/bayonet-I, all with paralax correction for the viewing lens. One attachment is for ±1m, a second for ±0.5m, and a third is for ±0.25m. And these are very cheap too, coated glass (5-10$ per attachment).

tac · May 9, 2008

My 2 cents:
In MF, I've been through Hassie's, Mamiya RZ, Mamiya C330, Mamiya 7, Rolleicord, Rolleflex and Yashica Mat. In tlr's, my fav shooter is the Yashica Mat EM. My favorite overall is the Mamiya 7.

The trouble with the Yashica 124G is the battery- they don't make them anymore and you have to use one-or-another kludge to get around it. The EM is pretty much the same camera, same Yashinon Tessar lens, with a battery-less meter. Also, the 124G is overpriced, in my opinion.

Like others have said, try before you buy, if possible, and it depends on what you want to do; the RZ/RB is a superb studio camera; the mamiya 7 is the bomb for street shooting; the Hassie works for both; I like to carry around my Baby Rollei, as well.
Hope that helps a bit

k_jupiter · May 10, 2008

MattKing said:
What you need to do is befriend someone who, like me, has more MF cameras than strictly makes sense.

Have fun.

Matt

Pick me! Pick me!

I have had a C220 since 1994. Took a long dang time to get use to it, but with a 65mm lens, it's great.

I never use it anymore.

I have the Yashica 635 (lightweight and versatile as well as being able to use 135 film), two rb67s with a full complement of lens (stunning quality lens, not as heavy as rumored , a miniature LF system without the movements), a handful of folders ( no range finder, guestimate focus) and a couple Speed Graphics with various lens/back combinations.

My choice? the rb is the camera with the mostus.

tim in san jose

Antje · May 10, 2008

My first MF was a Holga. Yeah, really. Then a Rolleicord I, then a Hasselblad, and I think I've found "my" system now. Fairly light and small, I got a great deal, and I like the format a lot. Oh, I also got a folder (Agfa Billy Record II) as city walkaround 6x9.

Antje

dpurdy · May 10, 2008

If considering the Rollei TLR, don't forget the Rollei T. Thats were I started my Rollei affliction and the image quality is superb.
Dennis

Phillip P. Dimor · May 17, 2008

I think both are great first MF cameras. I am biased though as my first real MF camera was a Pentax 645. I think the strong points are price. Used, it's very affordable. The lenses are cheap used (compared to zeiss) and they are absolutely fantastic. Sharp, contrasty, great bokeh/look. The build quality is great too. The metering system on the P645 is excellent and it makes the entire camera very quick and simple to operate.
There are a lot of good reasons for a P645, but TLR's are great too. It depends on what you want to do.

Michel Hardy-Vallée · May 17, 2008

If you want to do it on the cheap, a Yashica TLR will do fine. Actually, I've got a model D in very fine condition for sale...

bjorke · May 18, 2008

tac said:
The trouble with the Yashica 124G is the battery

I ignore the meter. C'mon, look how it aims. It's sketchy at best.

The real issue with the 'mat (I have two) is the flash sync. I have a bit of tape wrapped on my X/M lever to ensure it stays on "X"

malinmalin · May 18, 2008

Like others said, go cheap first to get the feel. A Yashica TLR, while very simple, can give very nice
negs. And they are very cheap: I got mine (a Yashica 124) from a very nice old man for $100, including
the leather case in pristine condition and the macro kit. But by all means, don't get into the expensive stuff first!

Be warned though: you might never go back to 35mm afterwards! MF is *highly* addictive!
I got hooked when a friend of mine lent me is Hassy and it was downhill (uphill?) ever after
for me. Mamiya C, Hassy, etc. The best one I ever owned was a Mamiya 7II but some junkie stole
it, most probably thinking it was a digi camera. Still yearning for that one...sigh...but those are worth
major bucks.

In the end, it all comes down on how and what you shoot. A Mamiya C330 is heavy and shooting
handheld is very hard, you need a tripod. Just being back from SE Asia I was carrying
the C300 with 3 lenses, a tripod, lightmeter and the rest of the gear, plus the Yashica
for street shooting. Putting a C300 with a 180 lens on a tripod always attract a crowd

jf

dfoo · May 18, 2008

I enjoy using both 35mm and MF. I use the 35mm for street shooting, and the MF for other stuff.

milkplus-mesto · May 18, 2008

well, right now on ebay, for just £279.99 ($560) buy it now, you can get yourself a full mamiya 645 system, how about you try that, and then if you don't like it, you can always sell it on. just here.

dancqu · May 18, 2008

Stevopedia said:
Hello everyone,
At some point in the future I'd like to move up to medium
format, and I was wondering what cameras you would
suggest for a brand-new MF shooter. -Stephen

For functionality 6x6 can't be beat. It is always ready
to shoot in it's upright position. It always sits on top of
the tripod for best balance and viewing. In the darkroom
the negatives alway are upright.

Less expensive and lighter weight as well as the waist
level finder can do for most shoots. Dan

MattKing · May 19, 2008

milkplus-mesto said:
well, right now on ebay, for just £279.99 ($560) buy it now, you can get yourself a full mamiya 645 system, how about you try that, and then if you don't like it, you can always sell it on. just here.

On this side of the water, that may actually be a high price for that kit, at least if the AE prism finder is not included (the auction description is quite confusing).

It is a good kit though (it's very similar to my first MF SLR), although there are good arguments that getting at least the next version of the body (the Mamiya 645 Pro) is a good idea.

Matt

makan · May 22, 2008

dancqu said:
For functionality 6x6 can't be beat. It is always ready
to shoot in it's upright position. It always sits on top of
the tripod for best balance and viewing. In the darkroom
the negatives alway are upright.

Less expensive and lighter weight as well as the waist
level finder can do for most shoots. Dan

A 6x9 - always ready to be put on one of its sides, vertically or horizontally, with the added advantage of using both formats...

paulie · Aug 31, 2009

bronica gs1 , use the best lol

k_jupiter · Aug 31, 2009

dancqu said:
For functionality 6x6 can't be beat. It is always ready
to shoot in it's upright position. It always sits on top of
the tripod for best balance and viewing. In the darkroom
the negatives alway are upright.

Less expensive and lighter weight as well as the waist
level finder can do for most shoots. Dan

In the darkroom the negatives are always on their side (at least with a TLR). At least with my MX45 enlarger.

And you have no idea how many times I turned a 6x6 folder on it's side to get a shot *L*

tim in san jose

BobbyChitrakar · Aug 31, 2009

Go out and get a Rolleiflex with a Xenotar or Planar lens. This could very well be your first and last MF camera; You will most likely not need any other as long as you live. And when you get too old or sick to shoot, you can will it to your descendents.

Marcus S · Sep 1, 2009

Camera choice is very personal, what is great for one might not be right for another.
I find that the more experienced I get, the less equipment I require.
I make my living with several camera formats including 645, but privately I often use my Rolleiflex TLR.

A Mamiya 220 or 330 could be something in between the two worlds, as they use interchangable lenses.
The 220 is a little lighter and smaller and a very capable performer.

Good luck in your search,

Marcus

Good first MF camera?

panastasia

dynachrome

dynachrome

phenix

Nick Zentena

boncey

pschwart

phenix

tac

k_jupiter

Antje

dpurdy

Phillip P. Dimor

Michel Hardy-Vallée

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