Goldi Pocket Folder focus scale way off

Hi all, I have two Goldi pocket folders. They take 127 film and expose 3x4 negs. The first one was my fathers so I had it serviced. Previous to the service I took the lens apart to clean, and didn’t get it back on properly. I didn’t pay attention to the orientation when it came off the threads. The tech fixed it, however I discovered my first shots had missed focus points. I use a hand held rangefinder to set the focus scale. My rangefinder is accurate. So I set up a focus chart and attached a piece of ground glass to the negative plane. I discovered the scale is way off. I pulled the second camera out and the focus matched the serviced camera. So I’m wondering if others have the same experience with this camera or one similar with a focus scale. Here are my real results.

• 15.5” = minimum stop
• 18” = line I made on focus ring
• 24” = another line I made on focus ring
• 3’ = 4’ mark
• 4’ = Middle of number 7
• 5’ = 7’ mark
• 8’ = 24’ mark
• 12’ = infinity stop

Loosen the locking screws on the focusing scale on the front element. You don't have to unscrew them completely, because they are tiny and easily lost. Then put the camera on a tripod, open the shutter on T and with the aperture fully open. Then put a small groundglass (a flat piece of transparent plastic, like plexi glass or cut out of a cd cover, and as a matte surface you can just use scotch matte tape). Then visually focus on something at infinity, buildings or lamp posts far away, by turning the front element. When you have found the infinity focus you can make a scratch on the side of the front and second element lens mounts, so you know where it is in case you disturb it later. Then take the camera off the tripod and put the focusing ring back on in the now correct place and tighten the lock screws.

The Goldi is a small format camera, so there isn't almost any film bulge in the film plane that complicates things, so my suggestion above should be enough.

When I adjust the focus on 6x6 or 6x9 folders I think of the film bulge, so after adjusting the focus at infinity by looking at a groundglass on the film plane I load the camera with a test film and put a printed scale with 12 or 8 lines (depending on if it's a 6x6 or 6x9 camera) on the mount for the second element or on the shutter itself if that mount doesn't protrude. I put the scale so the one of the lines in the middle of the scale points to the scratched mark on the front element ring. Then I put the camera on a tripod outdoors and use buildings and things far away as infinity distance. Then I turn the front element so the scratchen line points to '1' and take a shot. Wind the film and turn the lens to '2' and take another shot, and so on. Then I develop the film and study the negatives. Maybe #7 shows the infinity objects as their sharpest. Then I turn the front lens so the scratched like points to '7', remove the printed scale and put the focusing ring back on and tighten the locking screws.

This shouldn't be needed for small format cameras, but the film can bulge quite a bit in 6x9 cameras so I find this extra step with a test roll very much worth it, because then I know that my photos will be sharp at the set distance even at large apertures.
https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/51184059283_611c2f99ef_n.jpg

Typically on folders there are three adjustments that determine focus.
1. Spacers between the shutter housing and lens standard
2. The multi-lead thread (usually 6) of the helicoid that must be engaged in the correct lead
3. The focus scale which can be rotated relative to the focusing element and secured with set screws

I just dug out my Goldi and #3 appears to not be there, i.e. the focus scale is engraved directly on the focusing element and cannot be rotated relative to it. (Note that the focus does have an external post that acts as a stop and thay may be a set screw, but that is highly doubtful.) So you're left with adjustments 1 and 2. Since you're pretty close (3' at the 4' mark) you just need to get the correct lead engaged. Verify the actual number of leads (usually 6, v.s.), set the camera on a tripod, mount a piece of ground glass and start checking one lead at a time. I usually do this at 4' to be in the most critical section of focus and see the target clearly.

The Bessa 66 works the same way. It took several days to figure that one out, but eventually I got it into focus.

thuggins said:

Typically on folders there are three adjustments that determine focus.
1. Spacers between the shutter housing and lens standard
2. The multi-lead thread (usually 6) of the helicoid that must be engaged in the correct lead
3. The focus scale which can be rotated relative to the focusing element and secured with set screws

I just dug out my Goldi and #3 appears to not be there, i.e. the focus scale is engraved directly on the focusing element and cannot be rotated relative to it. (Note that the focus does have an external post that acts as a stop and thay may be a set screw, but that is highly doubtful.) So you're left with adjustments 1 and 2. Since you're pretty close (3' at the 4' mark) you just need to get the correct lead engaged. Verify the actual number of leads (usually 6, v.s.), set the camera on a tripod, mount a piece of ground glass and start checking one lead at a time. I usually do this at 4' to be in the most critical section of focus and see the target clearly.

Click to expand...

Can you show your camera and it's focusing ring? There are some variations and with different lenses and shutters.

thuggins said:

Typically on folders there are three adjustments that determine focus.
1. Spacers between the shutter housing and lens standard
2. The multi-lead thread (usually 6) of the helicoid that must be engaged in the correct lead
3. The focus scale which can be rotated relative to the focusing element and secured with set screws

I just dug out my Goldi and #3 appears to not be there, i.e. the focus scale is engraved directly on the focusing element and cannot be rotated relative to it. (Note that the focus does have an external post that acts as a stop and thay may be a set screw, but that is highly doubtful.) So you're left with adjustments 1 and 2. Since you're pretty close (3' at the 4' mark) you just need to get the correct lead engaged. Verify the actual number of leads (usually 6, v.s.), set the camera on a tripod, mount a piece of ground glass and start checking one lead at a time. I usually do this at 4' to be in the most critical section of focus and see the target clearly.

The Bessa 66 works the same way. It took several days to figure that one out, but eventually I got it into focus.

Click to expand...

I’m glad you have the same camera. You didn’t mention if your scale was accurate? Since one of mine was serviced, the other matches it in focusing, and they both focus accurately at infinity. I am assuming the scale is just off on these cameras. Mine is like yours it can’t be re adjusted by rotation.

The only time I use a focus other than infinity would be the 30 foot hyperfocal distance. AFAIK the focus is ok. If it is ok at infinity, I figure it is good from there.

I’ll shoot a test roll today. I will make two exposures one at dial distance the other at my ground glass distances.

I made a close distance scale. First line is 18” second is 24”. Testing tomorrow.

Ok well as usual lately I made an error when I was testing the focus. I used a nice Mamiya split prism focus screen however I had in laying on top of the film guides instead of inside them! Geeze how dumb can you get! Anyway when I shot the test roll it showed the scale is very close. I shot the whole roll wide open except for the infinity shot. Here is the 4’ shot showing front focus of only about 2” as seen on the focus tool showing 6 in focus instead of 0. I also discovered it will focus down to 18” .